“Since turbochargers can operate at much higher rpm than the accompanying engines, how much of a risk is overheating after engine shut down?

I see that some high performance cars (for example, Alfa Romeo’s 4C) come with an “after-run pump” to cool down the turbo following shut down. On normal turbo cars (e.g., Chevy Cruze Diesel or Chevy Malibu Turbo), do you suggest letting the car idle for a minute or so to let the turbo slow down and cool off before shutting down?  Is synthetic oil a must for turbo-equipped cars? Thanks.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. As you may be aware, older engines that had turbochargers were known for coking the oil (turning it to tar) and it was advised to keep the engine running at idle speed for about a minute if it had been accelerated rapidly. Today, several things have changed including:

1. The turbocharger bearings are now cooled by coolant being circulated around the bushings as well as cooled and lubricated by the engine oil (this was not the case in older turbocharged engines).
2. The oil specified today, such as dexos, is designed to meet the needs of turbocharged engines. While dexos oil specifications do not indicate which base oil is used, it almost HAS to be a synthetic. There are three groups of synthetics (Group II, IV and V) and I believe that the specified oil has to use at least a Group III base stock. See “Engine Oil Update” Power Point on my website. Go to www.jameshalderman.com and then click on “Downloads” and click on “Conference Power Points” and select “Engine Oil Update”.

I think that Alfa Romeo is being very conservative and want to make sure that the turbocharger bushings are kept lubricated under all conditions. As always, vehicle owners should always follow the manufacturers’ recommended products such as engine oil and coolant, and maintenance intervals.  I hope this helps.

“The spark plug manufacturers always tout their plugs as being better than stock. It’s a confusing part of the industry for most shade tree mechanics. I never know what is the right plug to buy whenever it’s time to replace them. I have been using high-performance “yellow” plugs in my 1971 Camaro because I heard they burn hotter so that I get a more complete burn in the chamber. What is your favorite spark plug and why?”

Halderman:

Believe or not, the best to use in the factory plug. Champion brand spark plugs are used in most Chrysler vehicles and ACs in most vehicles built by General Motors. Use the specified plug number.  Check the owner’s manual for the exact plug to use. I have “fixed” many cars by simply replacing whatever plugs were in the car with the factory plugs and that fixed the car.

“Jim, I read your articles weekly. I have a Ford Windstar van with the big V6. It has 178,000 miles and runs on 87 octane fuel. Over the last 50,000 miles it has developed what I believe to be pre-ignition rattle after the engine is up to operating temperature. The one shop I took it to said the problem is carbon build up in the combustion chambers. The carbon gets hot and creates the pre-ignition condition. He suggested using a product called “Seafoam” to remove the carbon from the upper chamber but this would not solve the problem but may reduce it. I read the article published a few weeks ago about the machine that was used to remove carbon from the combustion chamber on a Cadillac to free up piston rings. Is this a possible solution to my “rattling problem?”

Halderman:

Yes it is. There can also be a clogged exhaust port from the EGR valve to the intake. This cannot be fixed using a chemical, but instead the valve and tubing will need to be removed and the carbon cleaned out. The passages on your van are located under the intake manifold so there will be some labor involved getting to them. This is a very common problem with the 3.8 liter V-6 and can be fixed, but it could involve some expense for labor. Except for gaskets and cleaning supplies, there should not be any other parts involved. Check with a professional technician to have the ports cleaned as it can be an involved process for the do-it-yourselfer.

“I know you have heard the horror stories about changing spark plugs in the Ford 4.6 and 5.4 engines. I have a 2004 F150 and was thinking of changing the plugs with 63000 miles on them. I was told the more miles you put on them the harder they are to get out! I know Ford has put out a technical service bulletin (TSB) about these plugs.  Do you think a weekend mechanic can change the plugs without breaking them? Do you know of a better way to get them out?”

Halderman:

Thanks for asking before you started work on removing these spark plugs. The design of the plugs results in a section of the plug that is smaller and weaker, which can cause them to break when being removed. When they break, it is sometimes necessary to remove the cylinder head to remove the broken off plug. It does not stop there. To remove the cylinder head, the cab of the truck usually has to be lifted off the frame. Therefore, it is wise that you ask a professional to replace these spark plugs. While some may be able to be removed without breaking, in most cases at least a few or more will require extensive work and time to remove. The usual procedure is to follow the TSB released by Ford that specifies the use of a penetrating oil and specific spark plug rotation during removal. Most technicians use a kit that includes special fittings that can be used to remove most of the plugs. However, most shops will estimate an hour per spark plug for replacement so save your money for the $800+ repair bill.

“I own a 2004 dodge Dakota pickup 6 cylinder with 43,000 miles on it. It’s been regularly serviced by the dealer where I bought it and by a very good repair shop. I wanted to know if I should change any original parts such as belts and hoses since they are now 8 years old. I have had them checked during regular service and the tech says they look fine. I intend to keep the truck forever and once I had a belt break on me years ago on the interstate so I want to be very cautious about it”.

Halderman:

The industry standard test for what is acceptable is that a belt that has three cracks in any three inch length of the belt should be replaced. However, since about 2005, most vehicle manufacturers started using belts from ethylene propylene diene monometer (EPDM) rubber that do not crack like the older belts made from neoprene. These newer belts should be measured for wear and replaced as needed, which is usually every 100,000 miles. Regarding the hoses, these should be inspected by a professional technician and replaced as needed.

“I read your article on taking used oil to service shops and auto parts stores and I have always been able to do so at no charge. But I am having a problem finding a place to take used antifreeze. Only one place will accept it if I pay six dollars per gallon of 50/50 mix. I only paid nine dollars per gallon for new 100% antifreeze. Do you know any place less costly and preferably free? I have thought of a couple of ways to dispose of it and I would like your opinion. One is to spray it into a barrel when I burn brush.

Another is to dilute it more and put it into my backpack sprayer when I spray weed killer on fence rows on my farm. I would appreciate your views.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing as this is a good question. I have heard and read several different options regarding this issue which included the following:

It is acceptable to flush a small quality of antifreeze down the toilet where it will enter the sanitary sewer system.
It is NOT acceptable to spread on open ground where it could get into the drinking water wells.
The environmental protection agency (EPA) states that all used antifreeze needs to be tested to determine if it is hazardous,  but then states that all used coolant (antifreeze and water combination) should be considered to be hazardous unless otherwise tested to be not hazardous.
I do know that by talking to automotive instructors who teach automotive courses in California, that if even a drop of antifreeze is spilled on the floor of the shop that it has to be considered hazardous waste and a specialized company has to be called to dispose of it in an environmentally correct manner. What would I do? I would not dispose of used coolant on open ground from a sprayer or any other method. I would call your local sanity department and ask them about disposing of antifreeze coolant into the sanitary sewer system. If this is not possible in your area, I would continue to call around to shops and parts stores to determine who will accept used antifreeze. Also call your local government (city or county) because they often have locations where hazardous waste materials such as old paint cans, chemicals and batteries can be taken so that they can disposed of correctly.

“I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with 4 liter, 6 cylinder, inline engine.  I’m trying to change the two top hoses that go into the firewall to the heater core.  One is 5/8 inch.  No problem. Part stores all carry this size.  The other one is 11/16 inch.  I’ve checked several different parts stores and the local Chrysler dealer.  No one carries.  Can I use a 3/4inch or is there another solution?

Thank you”

Halderman:

To make sure that I was giving you the correct information, I asked Tom Freels the Chrysler Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College for help.

Here is his response:

“I don’t see a problem with using the ¾ inch hose if that is all that he can find in bulk. However, both of the heater hoses are available from Chrysler and some local dealers even stock it so it should only be a day’s wait for one if it had to be ordered.

55036924AD- return hose    list price 15.35

55037326AC -supply hose   list price 35.75

These are relatively affordable and are the original equipment manufacturers (OEM) part that will have all of the bends formed in them and fit like new. I’m not sure why a dealer told him that they couldn’t get them unless they only looked at getting an 11/16 inch hose and didn’t look for the part numbers.”

Thanks Tom. I think that using the original equipment hose is more expensive, it will be correct for this vehicle. Besides using the OEM parts this will make it look like it did when it came off the assembly line. Sometimes owners create some problems by using replacement parts that are not exactly like the factory hoses. For example, I have seen where a heater hose was replaced and as short a section as possible was used whereas the original hose was longer and routed so that there was some slack in the hose. This slack or extra length is done on purpose for two reasons:

1. The heater hose is attached to the engine at one end and the engine is mounted to the body or frame using rubber mounts. There needs to be some extra length to allow for the movement of the engine.
2. The extra length is also needed to help reduce engine vibrations from being transmitted to the heater core which cause heater core failure.

Due to the above, I usually recommend that stock replacement parts be used, or in the case of hoses, use replacement hoses that are cut to the same length as the original hose and routed in the same way.

“I understand that there is a new synthetic anti-freeze.  What can you tell me about using this product? Why would it be advertised as new?  Is there a new synthetic type?  Are there any advantages to using the “new” product?”

Halderman:

It is called marketing. Ethylene glycol is a synthetic so there is nothing new. Anti-freeze coolant is a mixture of ethylene glycol (about 47%) and de-mineralized water (50%) and 3% additives.. Use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. The types of coolants (antifreeze and water) include:

• Inorganic additive technology (IAT) coolants are conventional coolants that have been used for over 50 years. The color of an IAT coolant is green. Phosphates in these coolants
• can cause deposit formation if used with hard water (i.e., water with high mineral content). The use of IAT coolants in new vehicles was phased out in the mid-1990s.
• Organic acid technology (OAT) coolants contain ethylene glycol, but do not contain silicates or phosphates. The color of this type of coolant is usually orange. DEXCOOL,
• developed by Havoline, is just one brand of OAT coolant, which has been used in General Motors vehicles since 1996
• Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) is a newer variation of OAT. An HOAT coolant is similar to the OAT- type antifreeze as it uses organic acid salts (carboxylates) that are not abrasive to water pumps. HOAT coolants can be green, orange, yellow, gold, pink, red, or blue.
• Universal coolants are usually HOAT coolants with extended life and are low-silicate and phosphate-free. They can be used in many vehicles, but cannot meet the needs of engines requiring a silicate-free formulation.
• Premixed coolant is a coolant that is mixed with the proper percentage of water and is ready for use. The water is demineralized and therefore does not include chlorine and other possible chemicals that could cause damage to the cooling system. Toyota and Honda are two vehicle manufacturers that specify the use of premixed coolant only.

“My 1960  Corvette (283cu. in./ 270 HP), completely rebuilt 3 years ago with the correct radiator for this engine all stock  runs fine in all situations when it’s cooler outside, like, let’s say 80 degrees or under (preferably under!).

It runs fine on any hot day while we’re moving or if we haven’t run at highway speeds for a while. It will run fine while we’re running highway speeds even for a long time but, after we’ve run highway speeds for a long time and we slow down, it runs poorly at low RPM’s until it cools down some. This will also be true if we sit idling for a long time on a hot day.

My theory (and others as well) is that the alcohol/ethanol that’s in virtually all fuel today lowers the boiling point of the fuel and after building up heat in the engine and under the hood, it reaches a point where it boils the gas.

Modern cars with fuel injection run with the fuel system under pressure which lowers the boiling point and eliminates this problem. Carbureted engines run with very low fuel system pressure.

The engine usually runs around 180-200 degrees (by my gauge) and will rise some under these situations but isn’t running too hot by the gauge. Under the right circumstance, I can see the fuel boiling in the fuel filter. I would expect there may be an additive that might help this but I’m unaware of what it is. The guy that did my carburetor work gave me an additive that basically boosted the octane and I really didn’t see much improvement. Can you give me any help or advice?”

Halderman:

I asked around for some advice from others. Here is what Dick Krieger from Michigan said:

“If I remember correctly, there should be a phenolic type insulator/spacer about a ½ inch thick located between the intake manifold and the carburetor. This part may be missing and creating your problem”

From Darrell Deeter from Saddleback College in southern, California:

“Mount an electric fuel pump back at the tank.  Datsun 240Z’s had a problem with vapor lock and solved it by adding an additional pump at the tank.”

Thanks Dick and Darrell. I think these two together will help solve your concerns.

“In June or July, I took my wife’s 2002 Jeep to a mechanic to have Freon added to the air conditioner. He also checked out why the jeep when parking or when the it was almost not moving such as making a 90 degree turn to enter our garage, the power steering seemed to give out.

He said that the steering problem was in the gear box and that sometimes just a simple fluid flush would make a difference and stated that the radiator cooling fan also uses the same fluid as the gearbox.

After he added Freon and flushed the steering, he said the steering did not improve and it was safe to drive the car the way it was but if I wanted it repaired a new gear box would be about $500.00.

I picked up the car at which time I noticed with the hood closed the motor sounded like it was racing even though the RPMs on the tack were the same. I said “This sure sounds very noisy and his reply was he noticed it as well and we determined that the noise occurred once the air kicked in so it must be the radiator fan.”

We continued to drive the car putting off taking it for 2nd opinion to another mechanic as I work during the day. However, yesterday I took it to a Chrysler dealer and they tell me that it needs a cooling fan assembly at a tune of $1,559 plus tax.

Is it possible to just put a regular electric fan on it, and if so, how much difficulty would there be since they are a lot cheaper?

If I get one from a salvage yard and find a mechanic to install it, is this likely to last the life of the car or are these hydraulic fans just problematic?”

Halderman:

I asked Tom Freels the Chrysler Mopar College Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College for his opinion and here is what he wrote:

“I think that the original problem may have always been the radiator fan. The Grand Cherokee that the customer owns has the hydraulic fan that shares the same fluid as the pump and steering gear. The original problem sounds likely more of a power steering fluid level issue with no assist at idle.  I can’t see the steering gear causing a problem that is only evident at idle or parked.  The fan likely made noise because it was faulty or possibly became faulty with a fluid starvation issue. There is no mention of a fluid leak though.   They would have to find a shop willing to put an electric fan on and the problem with that is the check engine light will be on constantly for the circuit fault with the original fan. It is hydraulically driven, but electronically controlled by the engine computer.”

Thanks Tom. Therefore, it seems that the best and most cost efficient approach is to find a used hydraulic fan assembly at a recycling (wrecking) yard and have the unit replaced with the same unit that came from the factory.

“I have a 2005 Buick Lacrosse. I bought in 2010. It had 20,000 miles. It has 34000 now. In June of 2011,  I changed the anti-freeze. I used Prestone flush and fill. I put a tee in the top hose coming out of water pump. I connected the water hose to it and flushed the system. I put a new lower radiator hose on and filled it with the Prestone extended life anti-freeze.

The heater worked well last winter, but now it just blows luke warm air.  Every once in a while it does blow hot air, not often. I put in a new thermostat a few weeks ago, but it didn’t help. I think I should put DEXCOOL in it.

What do you think? I hope you can help. Thanks”

Halderman:

I wonder why you replaced the coolant with just 34,000 miles on a two-year old vehicle? As many know who read this column, I recommend that technicians and vehicle owners follow what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. In this case, Buick (General Motors) recommends that the coolant be replaced at 100,000 miles and that DEXCOOL be used.

Almost all coolants are ethylene glycol with about 3% additives. It is the additives (the 3%) that change the coolant. There are three types of coolant:

1. IAT-Inorganic Additive Technology- This is the old green anti-freeze.
2. OAT-Organic Acid Technology (DEXCOOL is one brand of OAT)
3. HOAT– Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (can be many colors depending on the additive package) Most “long life” antifreezes are HOAT type.

The water used with the antifreeze is very important too and some vehicle manufacturers, such as Honda and Toyota, recommend the use of premixed coolant only. By the way, coolant is 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Some tap water is high in mineral and chlorine making it unsuitable for use in coolant.

I think your problem is caused by air trapped in the system. Follow the recommended procedures when refilling the coolant, such as opening a bleeder valve, to help keep air from being trapped in the system.

“I enjoy reading your column in the Dayton Daily News, and I’d appreciate your advice on a couple of topics.

1. My wife and I own a ’57 T-bird.  The owner’s manual “recommends” using a premium-grade fuel (which, of course, would have been leaded fuel in 1957).  I understand that gasoline octane ratings are calculated differently now than they were in the 50s, and I also don’t know what octane rating would have been considered to be “premium” in the 50s.  Given the changes in fuel formulations over the years, most notably the addition of ethanol and the removal of lead, would you say that I should still use a premium-grade fuel, or would today’s regular grade now be satisfactory?
2. Also, the vehicle was restored before we got it, so I don’t know if any engine modifications were made to accommodate unleaded fuel.  Consequently, I always add a lead substitute to every tank fill-up.  In the event that the necessary modifications were in fact done before we purchased the car, other than adding unnecessary air pollution, is there any harm being caused by adding lead substitute to the fuel at every fill-up?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing and here are my thoughts:

1. The best way to find out how the gas works is to try using first midgrade (Plus) and see if the engine pings under a load when it is hot. When the engine “pings”, it sounds like loose marbles in a steel can. If it does, then continue to use premium grade. If it does not ping using midgrade, try regular at the next fill-up and see if it pings. There is really no other reasonable way to find out.
2. I don’t really think using a lead substitute is needed. The valves may recess into the cylinder head if hardened seats were not installed (not likely), but to have this happen requires the engine to be operating under a heavy load and at high speeds for a long period of time. If you drive this car in hilly areas at highway speeds for hours at a time, then yes, continue to use the lead substitute, but maybe reduce it to every other tank fill-up. If the car is being driven around town at lower speeds and not under a heavy load, I don’t think there is a need to continue to use it.

“I have an oil additive question: Would adding Pyroil engine oil additive to my 2000 Honda Accord have any adverse effect on the catalytic converter? The car has about 100,000 miles on it.   In the past I’ve used it with 1960s and 1970s Chevrolets and Fords, but that was before the catalytic converter days. I am unsure of the chemicals used in the additive”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Neither Honda nor any vehicle manufacturers recommend the use of any additive. Most oil additives do contain high levels of zinc which can cause damage to the catalytic converter. The term used for the most commonly used zinc additive is ZDDP. This additive is needed in older engines (usually engine built before 1980) that use flat bottom lifters.

Even then, the use of the zinc additive is most important during the break-in period.

If a zinc additive is used, it will not likely be noticed for many miles or years because the zinc used needs to be burned in the combustion chamber then to the catalytic converter where it will reduce its efficiency. Because so little oil is used in newer engines the affect can take a long time. Also the additive will not do anything except maybe make you feel better that you have taken good care of the engine even though you have not.

“You probably have seen this already, but I thought I’d pass it along to you about the need to use oil that has more zinc in it for older cars. It helps “clear the air” on what oil to use on my 1964 1/2 Mustang, and even my 1953 Ford Golden Jubilee tractor.

I enjoy your columns, keep them up”.

Halderman:

Newer oil standards are designed to reduce phosphates in the engine oil that may leak past piston rings and end up in the exhaust system. These additives found in oil can then damage the catalytic converter. The levels of phosphate and zinc commonly referred to as ZDDP.  Even though engines consume very little oil, if the oil contains zinc, the efficiency of the catalytic converter is reduced. The use of ZDDP was intended to reduce sliding friction in an engine. Sliding friction is usually found in engines that use flat-bottom lifters.

Most, if not all, engines produced over the past 20 years have used roller lifters or cam followers, so using the new oil without ZDDP is not a concern. Even diesel oils have reduced amounts of the zinc, so many camshaft manufacturers are recommending the use of an additive.

If driving a vehicle with flat-bottom lifters, use engine oil specifically designed for older engines, such as Shell Rotella T, or use your favorite oil and then add a zinc additive.

I would like your professional opinion on the crush washer for oil plugs on autos. I change my own oil, and have never changed a crush washer. I have been buying oil filters from our local Toyota and Honda dealer for our late model cars. They both try to sell me a crush washer.

I wasn’t paying attention this week at the Honda dealer and I paid for it before I realized it was on the ticket. I put it in the drawer with my spare Honda parts.

Cost is not the issue. These washers are aluminum alloy and I could understand if they were damaged. The used Honda washer I inspected today only had a raised radial distortion near the threads on the plug. It was perfectly circular and would not keep the washer from seating properly. I have never had an oil plug leak so I do not see the need to change the washer every time I drain the oil. I use synthetic, so the oil is only changed one or two times a year at 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

Halderman:

I try to only recommend what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and they recommend that the washer be replaced at each oil change. Is it needed at each oil change? I do not know but I do know that once a crush washer has been compressed, it will not return to its original thickness and therefore may not be able to seal as designed. What do I do? I replace them at each oil change. To me this is cheap insurance and is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

“I wanted your opinion on this. My wife’s 2012 Buick has 3449 miles on it and it is a year old.  We keep getting emails through OnStar from the dealer saying we are out of date on service.

I know they want some of our money, but the oil change light still hasn’t come on and it’s probably rare to have such low mileage. Should we change the oil? Thanks”.

Halderman:

Yes. Every expert says to change the oil at least every year regardless of mileage. I know it sounds as if this is not right but a year is a long time when it comes to engine oil. Short trip drives especially in freezing weather are particularly hard on engine oil. The car is equipped with an oil life monitoring (OLM) system, and this works great in most cases. For example, for drivers who travel to work every day and run errands on the weekend, the oil life monitor usually indicates that an oil change is required every 5,000 miles to 7,500 miles. Apparently your wife does not drive very often or far. Some oil monitoring systems do keep track of time and will turn on the “oil change required” warning lamp after a year even if the vehicle has been in storage for six months out of the year. The temperature changes and moisture accumulation results in acid build up in the oil which can harm engine bearings and seals. Changing the oil at least every year is relatively cheap insurance to protect the engine.  Also be sure that the shop uses the specified oil that meets the dexos specification. Dexos (spelled with a lower case “d” as per General Motors Co.), is oil that is designed to work best in General Motors engines and was introduced for use in engines that are equipped with gasoline direct injection (GDI) and variable valve timing (VVT) systems.  The first oil change may be free too at the dealer. Ask them.

“I have a 2007 BMW 525i.  I drive 98% highway miles.  I drive for maximum fuel efficiency even to the point of being a bit slower than average traffic.   I drive 5,000 miles a month, nearly all down Interstate and major state highways in rural America. My BMW was built with an inline 6 cylinder engine.  I am getting 36 mpg average, and have done as well as 42 mpg.  Now for my question:  A BMW oil change is $100.  I read the recent article on synthetic oil and high mileage changes. I would prefer to change my oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles and used standard non synthetic oil.

It seems to me the economics of this decision include your driving conditions and habits, but also how long do you plan to keep the car.  If you take care of a piece of equipment like you plan to keep it to 500,000 miles, then you just might succeed at this.

If I change the oil frequently at $100 a pop, that’s a lot of money.  I think this is all marketing hype.  What is happening is the manufacturer is trying to get the consumer into the dealership frequently.  The cost of maintaining the car is soaring because of marketing design.

I like the idea of keeping the oil clean.  It strikes me that given the low level of stress my oil is given, it doesn’t matter.  The manual says synthetic oil only.  The car is designed that it is impossible for a regular citizen to change his own oil because he can’t reset the stupid monitors.

Do you have any thoughts on this matter?”

Halderman:

For the detailed answer go to my web site (https://jameshalderman.com) and select “Downloads” then “Power Points” and then look at the one on engine oil. There you will see that BMW and other European vehicle manufacturers use a different rating system for oil compared to those used in the U.S. They also specify oil that has a very broad viscosity range, such as SAE 10W-60, that is not found in oils that do not meet the BMW (ACEA) standards. Severe engine damage and sludge can occur if standard API- rated oil is used instead of the specified oil. However, the good news is that BMW specifies (check the owner’s manual to be sure for your vehicle) 30,000 km (18,000 mile) oil change intervals. This means that even though it might cost $250.00 for an oil change including having all of the electric oil pumps run using a scan tool by the shop to rid the system of air,  it is actually about the same cost if you used conventional oil and changed it every 3,000 miles. Always use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. They know more than we do about what is best. Besides, the distance you travel I would think that changing the oil every 18,000 miles is an advantage and you will not have to spend as much time changing or having the oil changed. I hope this helps.

“I enjoy reading your article about the new oil required for use in all new General Motor’s vehicles. Would you please address my question about any problems there might be in using Pennzoil motor oil SAE 5W-40 (API Service Rating SJ and API Rating SL) I bought years ago when the prices were much lower. This oil would be used in a 1997 Ford E-150 Van with a 5.4 liter V-8 engine. Thank you very much for any information you can provide.

P.S. There are only 6 quarts of each type of oil in question.”

Halderman:

Most experts recommend that oil that is older than five years should be discarded. The reason is that the additives can fall out of suspension. I think it can be used if you shake the container and double check that the viscosity is the recommended for use in the vehicles. I would not recommend using older oil in a newer vehicle where the specifications are likely to not to match the oil you have. However, your vehicle is about 14 years old so the oil you purchased several years ago will be just fine to use.

I would not recommend using any oil if it is in the old style metal cans. The cans often rust, which will affect the oil inside. Do not dispose of oil in regular trash but instead take it to a parts store where it can be sent out for recycling. Many service shops will also take used or old oil for use in their waste oil heaters. This type of heater saves the shop owners a lot of money in the heating season and replaces heating oil with waste oil in a heating unit specifically designed for waste oil.

I have been fighting the premise that synthetic fluids are bad for cars for over 40 years.  I know for a fact that synthetic is much better in all automotive applications than petroleum based lubricants.  I was a Polymer Chemist at Chicago Rawhide in the 1960s and as I am sure you are aware they were the largest manufacturer of automotive seals during this time.   I worked in Elgin IL and lived in Crystal Lake, IL.  Right behind my house was the Pure Oil Research Center.  I discovered that Pure was going to do extensive testing of the effect of synthetic fluids on engines.  I contacted them and they agreed to use our oil seals for their tests.   They could run the engines under all types of climatic conditions, cold, heat, dust, sand, etc.  They also tested 50 engines using their petroleum based lubricants as a control.  To make a long story short, after 250,000 miles they disassembled the engines and measured all the moving parts.  The results showed that the synthetic performed much better than the petroleum based lubricant.  There was very little wear when synthetic was used.  The question was why this was so.  The synthetic film strength was far superior to the petroleum, as was it’s ability to flow at low temperature, it did not breakdown at high engine temperature and had less viscosity change under various conditions.  During the cold tests the synthetic started flowing right away during startup, the petroleum did not.  It had little effect on our seals.

Why didn’t it take off like a rocket, they just built a better mousetrap.  It was its cost.  People can’t understand that it was less costly to spend the money up front for a product that will last 3 times as long but costs twice as much.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I have been using Mobil 1 since 1993 when I attended a seminar on oil at Purdue University. Synthetic oils are superior to all other oils except for costs. Synthetic oils do cost more but if using synthetic oil, it should be changed according to the vehicle manufacturers recommended interval, now usually every 5,000 miles to 10,000 miles or every six months or 12 months whichever occurs first. For the best benefit, use 100% synthetic and not a synthetic blend as there are no standards that define that amount of synthetic that a blend must contain to be called a blend. Most synthetic blends contain Group III oil as defined by the American Petroleum Institute (API). This group is classified as a synthetic because it is a highly refined mineral oil but not a unique molecular like Mobil 1 which is a Group IV oil.

“I have a new Camry and no one seems to carry the oil required for my engine. The owner’s manual specifies SAE 0W-16 and no shop has heard of this viscosity and they want to use SAE 0W-20 instead. My questions are where can this oil be purchased and would it be okay to use SAE 0W-20 instead of SAE 0W-016?”

Halderman:

The lower viscosity oil (SAE 0W-16) is new this year although it has been used in Japan for several years. I was able to purchase it, but I had to visit a Toyota dealer and it cost over $7.00 a quart. Check the owner’s manual where I think you will find that you can use a commonly available SAE 0W-20 if SAE 0W-16 is not available, but it will likely recommend that the thinner oil be used at the next service interval.  There is a trend in the automotive field toward lower viscosity oil to help improve fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions. Look for SAE 0W-12 and SAE 0W-8 in the future.

“My fiancée has a 2003 Cadillac Deville with 54,907 miles that uses a quart of oil every 300 to 400 miles. It has the 32 valve 8 cylinder Northstar engine. There are no leaks, as the garage floor is clean and we see no signs of it being burned and no blue smoke. We use SAE 5W-30 engine oil as per manufacturer’s directions. Any suggestions?  Thanks for your reply”.

Halderman:

This is a common situation (pattern failure) yet relatively easy to fix. The cause is usually stuck piston rings and most commonly occurs when the vehicle is not driven much. Ask a shop to perform a de-carbonization process to free the stuck piston rings. What is happening is that the rings need to twist to seal properly and this is what happens during normal usage. However, it appears that the vehicle is not being driven very far as it has less than 55,000 miles on it and it is about 8 years old. Carbon is a by-product of the combustion process inside the engine. If this carbon is allowed to buildup, then the rings are not able to seal properly. The oil usage is occurring when oil gets past the piston rings and flows into the combustion chamber where it is burned. The amount is very small and most of it is consumed in the catalytic converter so it is not visible out the tail pipe.

The cause is usually stuck piston rings and most commonly occurs when the vehicle is not driven much. Ask a shop to perform a de-carbonization process to free the stuck piston rings.

“What are your thoughts on continuously variable transmissions (CVT)? I saw an article that had a listing of the “8 Low Cost Vehicles for 2015.” Some of them listed were equipped with a CVT transmission. What are your thoughts on CVT transmissions relative to initial cost, fuel economy, durability (will they last 200,000 miles), distinct advantages to the CVT, and are there different types? Do you think this is the wave of the future?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing with a good question. Without a doubt, a CVT transmission offers better fuel economy than a conventional automatic transmission and this is one of the reasons that it is being used by more vehicle manufacturers. It has some advantages and disadvantages just as any transmission design.

Advantages:

1. Very smooth without any jerking because it doesn’t actually shift gears like a conventional automatic transmission.
2. Allows the vehicle to achieve fuel economy close to that of a manual transmission.

Disadvantages:

1. Unknown long term durability. The Ford 500 did offer a CVT, but it was dropped and replaced with a six-speed automatic. I read that the warranty cost was about double that of the six speed.
2. Cannot be repaired and instead is now a replacement only assembly, which could be costly.

What do I think about a CVT? I do like the smoothness. I do not like the high engine speed when climbing hills. I prefer a conventional automatic transmission, especially if it is a six or more speed automatic.

Most times I do my own oil changes, didn’t feel up to it due to the weather, so took it to a local shop. They came out and did the “oh you should have the list showing that a transmission and engine flush that should be done”. I said I know too many radio talk show automotive technicians who say no to them. What are your thoughts?

Halderman:

I recommend services and products that are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer and flushing of the engine is not recommended nor should it be required. If the correct engine oil is used and the oil is changed regularly then an engine flush is not needed. I am also concerned that some “strong chemicals” are often used and these may or may not be suitable to the gaskets and seals used in the engine. Also any dirt or deposits that are loosen, I am concerned that these can clog oil passages and therefore may do more harm than good.

Automatic transmission fluid does need to be replaced and this service should be done more often if the vehicle is being used to two a heavy load such as a trailer.

“I took a friend’s car to Gatlinburg, TN, and it was equipped with an automatic transmission but it had a “manual” position labeled “M” on the gear selector instead of what I am used to with DRIVE and a 1 and 2 on the shifter display. I was descending a long grade coming down from New Found Gap and I was trying to slow the car using the gear selector so I did not overheat the brakes. Nothing seemed to happen when I selected the manual setting and I also noticed that there were levers or paddles on the steering column. What are these for and how do I use the manual setting?”

Halderman:

You are wise to try to use the gear selector when descending long grades to help avoid damage to your brakes, which can become overheated if kept applied on a long downhill road. For many vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, the following gear sections and their meanings include:

 

• Drive (D). The D position includes the overdrive ratios in most vehicles. If there is an overdrive shift mode, however, then D is used to provide all forward gears except overdrive. Use this position when driving on the highway.
• Third (3). In third position the transmission/transaxle will upshift normally to third gear but will not upshift to a higher gear. When the third position is selected while driving in a higher gear, the transmission will downshift into third if the vehicle speed is low enough to prevent the engine from being over-revved. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed when engine compression braking is needed.
• Second (2). The second position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending long grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and the engine speed is increased to provide engine compression braking. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed.
• First (1 or Low). The first (or low) position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending steep grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and

engine compression braking is used to slow the vehicle. This gear selection is used for the steepest grades at the lowest possible speed.

With a newer vehicle with the manual setting, the gears can be selected using the shift paddles on the steering wheel. It usually defaults to the gear that is currently in when the manual setting is selected. Then to change from say 5^th to 4^th gear, depress the shift paddle once usually on the left side labeled with a larger minus (-) symbol.

The gear selected is usually displayed on the speedometer face so you can see what gear is currently being used. To select a lower gear, to help maintain a lower speed while descending a long grade, depress the shift paddle again. To sect a higher gear so the engine does less compression braking, depress the right side (+) shift paddle.  Usually, I have found that using second (2) or third (3) gear works the best and allows the vehicle to descend long grades without having to use the brakes. When the road levels out, move the gear selector back to “Drive” to allow fully automotive shifting.

NOTE: Some vehicles have shift paddles on both sides of the steering column and they are both labeled “+”. In this case, the gears are selected by depressing to increase the gear and paddle (either side) is pulled toward you to downshift to a lower gear. Always check the owner’s manual for the exact procedure to follow when using manual mode.

“My 1999 Dodge minivan will shift from first to second gear almost immediately as I start to drive it and then not upshift from second regardless how fast I drive. It stays in second gear all the time. If I shut off the van and restart it, it will start off in first gear but then it immediately shifts into second. I am using a lot of gasoline driving around in second gear all the time. I have talked to other owners and some technicians that they think that the transmission computer has to be reprogrammed. How is this done and what causes the transmission computer to do this? Any help will be appreciated.”

Halderman:

Second gear is the default gear if the transmission computer detects a fault in the transmission. The most likely fault is a defective input speed sensor, also called as turbine speed sensor.  The transmission will start off in first gear but as soon as the vehicle speed increases and the transmission computer detects that a signal from the input shaft is not available, it will command second gear to allow the vehicle to be driven to a repair shop. Second, or third gear in some transmissions, is called the limp-in or default gear when the computer is not able to determine what is going on. Using the limp-in gear allows the vehicle to be driven yet will not cause any harm either. Ask a local shop to check for any diagnostic trouble codes or monitor the input speed sensor data using scan tool with the vehicle being driven. The speed sensor for both the input and output are a pattern failure item on these transaxles and the replacement sensors are reasonably priced and readily available. The sensors can be easily changed using simple hand tools and the transaxle does not need to be removed to change the sensors.

“I recently purchased a used 2002 Dodge truck with about 100,000 miles but it looks like new. I have been hearing a whine noise that sounds like it was coming from the transmission. Being a serious do-it-yourselfer, I changed the automatic transmission fluid by dropping the pan. I replaced the filter and installed a new gasket and then refilled the transmission using about the same amount as I took out which was about four quarts. Now the transmission drops into neutral when I stop. The fluid level indicates that it is full. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks”.

Halderman:

It sounds like you did the right thing about replacing the automatic transmission fluid. Because it goes into neutral when at idle tells me that it may be low of fluid. Most Chrysler products must be in neutral rather than in park when checking the fluid. If you checked it with the gear selector in park, then it could be too low and this could be the source of your problem. The procedure to use is usually stamped on the dip stick so check this to be sure.

 

Update: Carl wrote back with some good news:

“Good call on checking the transmission fluid level in neutral. It was 1.5 quarts low. WOW! I’m beginning to think it was low all along because I didn’t get 5+ quarts out of it when I dropped the pan. I bought a manual yesterday and confirmed the correct way to check the level and you were spot on. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!”

I have a 2009 Chrysler Town and Country minivan (touring edition). About two months ago while driving on I-75 at about 70 mph with the cruise on, it downshifted to a lower gear and the engine was screaming, I applied the brake to release the cruise control and slowed down while checking the shifter knob and floor mat position, that was all okay. Then it shifted back to normal, it hasn’t done that since. What could have happened?

Halderman:

That had to be scary situation, but I think the answer and the solution is relatively simple and low cost. If there is a fault with the one or both of the speed sensors, the transmission will shift into second gear. Second gear in this transmission is what is called the “limp-in” or default gear. These speed sensors are a pattern failure and usually both are replaced at the same time. The two include:

• The input speed sensor
• The output speed sensor

The transmission control module (TCM) monitors both of these speed sensors to determine when to shift. If the TCM does not get a signal from one of the speed sensors, it is not able to control the shifting of the transaxle. Therefore, when this occurs, the TCM commands the transmission to use the default gear. The driver is still able to drive the vehicle in forward and reverse, but only using second gear in forward. This condition results is slow acceleration when starting off from a stop and a fast operating engine at highway speed with greatly reduced fuel economy.

In your case, there may be a stored diagnostic trouble code (DTC) stored for a speed sensor. Most shops or dealers can replace these speed sensors quickly and at reasonable cost because they are accessible on the outside of the transaxle and they do not require that the transaxle to be removed from the vehicle.

“I took a friend’s car to Gatlinburg, TN, and it was equipped with an automatic transmission but it had a “manual” position labeled “M” on the gear selector instead of what I am used to with DRIVE and a 1 and 2 on the shifter display. I was descending a long grade coming down from New Found Gap and I was trying to slow the car using the gear selector so I did not overheat the brakes. Nothing seemed to happen when I selected the manual setting and I also noticed that there were levers or paddles on the steering column. What are these for and how do I use the manual setting?”

Halderman:

You are wise to try to use the gear selector when descending long grades to help avoid damage to your brakes, which can become overheated if kept applied on a long downhill road. For many vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, the following gear sections and their meanings include:

• Drive (D). The D position includes the overdrive ratios in most vehicles. If there is an overdrive shift mode, however, then D is used to provide all forward gears except overdrive. Use this position when driving on the highway.
• Third (3). In third position the transmission/transaxle will upshift normally to third gear but will not upshift to a higher gear. When the third position is selected while driving in a higher gear, the transmission will downshift into third if the vehicle speed is low enough to prevent the engine from being over-revved. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed when engine compression braking is needed.
• Second (2). The second position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending long grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and the engine speed is increased to provide engine compression braking. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed.
• First (1 or Low). The first (or low) position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending steep grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and

engine compression braking is used to slow the vehicle. This gear selection is used for the steepest grades at the lowest possible speed.

With a newer vehicle with the manual setting, the gears can be selected using the shift paddles on the steering wheel. It usually defaults to the gear that is currently in when the manual setting is selected. Then to change from say 5^th to 4^th gear, depress the shift paddle once usually on the left side labeled with a larger minus (-) symbol.

The gear selected is usually displayed on the speedometer face so you can see what gear is currently being used. To select a lower gear, to help maintain a lower speed while descending a long grade, depress the shift paddle again. To sect a higher gear so the engine does less compression braking, depress the right side (+) shift paddle.  Usually, I have found that using second (2) or third (3) gear works the best and allows the vehicle to descend long grades without having to use the brakes. When the road levels out, move the gear selector back to “Drive” to allow fully automotive shifting.

NOTE: Some vehicles have shift paddles on both sides of the steering column and they are both labeled “+”. In this case, the gears are selected by depressing to increase the gear and paddle (either side) is pulled toward you to downshift to a lower gear. Always check the owner’s manual for the exact procedure to follow when using manual mode.

An e-mail from Bob S. says, “I have been a regular reader of your column for many years. I usually find your responses to be clear, explicit, and complete. I am an engineer and avid car mechanic. For years I’ve puzzled over the issue of whether or not to change out and/or flush the ATF in my cars that have automatic transmissions. I’ve received conflicting recommendations from owner’s manuals, transmission rebuilders, and automotive experts such as yourself. It helps me to be specific, so here are 3 scenarios:

1. Assume you own a new G20 Chevy van that is used almost exclusively for long trips out of town. No towing is done with this van. If you owned such a van, how frequently would you change out the ATF (mileage and/or time), and would you flush it? Or would you not bother to change out the ATF?

Now assume this same Chevy van already has over 100,000 miles on it, the ATF has never been changed since the van was new, and that these 100,000 miles were virtually all long distance freeway miles. What would you do with the ATF at this point?

2. Switch the scenario. You own a passenger car, a Saab 9-5 station wagon, where the miles put on it are about 50/50 between local trips around town of less than five miles, and longer trips that range from 25 miles to several hundred miles. If you owned this vehicle, what would you do concerning changing/flushing the ATF?
3. One more scenario, which may just confuse things. You own a 1998 Jaguar XJ8, which has a sealed automatic transmission, and the manufacturer says to never change or flush the ATF. What is your opinion on dealing with the ATF on this car?

Thanks in advance for your response.”

Halderman:

1. The Chevy van with 100,000 should have the transmission fluid changed because GM says to at that mileage as long as you were not towing. Also be sure to use Dexron VI as this is has been the specified fluid to use in all General Motor vehicles since 2006 and is backward compatible meaning that it can be used in older GM vehicles too.
2. Regarding the Saab, I suggest that you replace the fluid regularly, such as every 30,000 miles. I change transaxle fluid on my vehicle every 30,000 miles and just drain and replace three quarts of fluid, drive the vehicle around the block, and change three more quarts. I notice an improvement every time I do this and the fluid looks clearer as well. Highly friction modified ATF will discolor faster than just friction-modified fluid, so don’t let the color itself be an indicator.
3. Regarding the Jaguar, I think I would check it at 50,000 miles and change it at 100,000 miles.

“Can you tell me about rear wheel drive cars? When is it normally used? Is it less fuel efficient than front wheel drive? I’m in a discussion with someone about how with CAFÉ standards, that rear-wheel-drive will go away. And, I guess, I don’t understand enough about it. Can you give me a rundown on it so I better understand? Thanks. “

Halderman:

Good question. There are many variables involved so I will try to address them one at a time:

1. Rear-wheel-drive is the preferred power train arrangement because it allows the front tires to do the steering only and the rear tires to propel the vehicle only.
2. Rear-wheel-drive is used in most trucks because as a load is placed in the bed of the truck, the weight over the drive wheels an increase which helps with traction. If a front-wheel-drive arrangement is used, the load in the bed of the truck would decrease the weight on the front drive wheels, reducing traction and making the vehicle very unstable.
3. Rear-wheel-drive requires a rear differential which uses a high-friction hypoid gear set to change the direction of applied engine force.
4. In front-wheel-drive vehicles, the direction of the engine torque does not need to be changed 90 degrees, therefore a high-friction hypoid gear set is not needed.
5. Is rear wheel drive less fuel efficient? Yes. This is due to the need for a long driveshaft, plus the added body or frame support to handle the engine torque at the rear of the vehicle and due to the friction inside the rear differential which changes the direction of applied torque. While great advances have been made over the past few years with seven and eight speed transmissions and lightweight materials, the rear-wheel-drive vehicle is still at a disadvantage when it comes to fuel efficiency.

Will rear wheel drive go away? Maybe not any time soon as there will be a need for trucks and other vehicles that need rear-wheel-drive to carry heavy loads and to tow trailers. With increasing need to improve fuel economy due to government mandate, even BMW, who always made rear wheel drive vehicles, is now just starting to introduce front-wheel-drive vehicles to the market.

All-wheel-drive vehicles are popular especially in mountainous regions, but here again they are not as fuel efficient as a front-wheel-drive or a rear-wheel-drive. These inefficiencies result from the added weight and friction of the extra parts and systems used to provide all wheel drive.

“We have a 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis which has been a wonderful automobile (and still is) except for one peculiar noise. The sound is similar to the sound that a dry speedometer cable used to make before we had electronic units. It has been doing this for about five years and 40,000 miles. In the beginning, it was barely audible and over time has become quite annoying. It seems to correspond to the rhythm of the wheel rotation.

I have a friend who is a certified Ford mechanic. He has tried to find the problem to no avail. Also, another friend who is an ASE certified mechanic has tried without success.

I have installed a new set of tires; tested the car without the wheel covers; inspected the bearings in both universal joints and had all four rotors turned and installed remanufactured calipers, along with new brake pads. I also replaced the rear right side axle bearing and seals. In addition, I inspected the parking brakes and backed them off a little to insure that they are not rubbing. I’m out of ideas!

I might add that I am a fair amateur mechanic, having restored eight antique autos, and just completed a street machine with modern drive train and suspension, including a fuel injected computer controlled engine and tranny. Any suggestions you have will be appreciated. Thanks”

Halderman:

I asked several others for their opinion and they suggested looking at the following:

1. U-joints on the driveshaft. The driveshaft should be removed and each joint moved through its travel to check for any looseness or binding. A U-joint will make noise at about three times faster than the rotation speed of the wheels due to the differential gear ratio. This may not be your concern if the noise is heard at the same rate as the speed of rotation of the wheels.
2. Check the dust shield to see if it is touching the rotor.  A loose wheel bearing may cause the rotor to move and touch the dust shield.
3. The wheel bearing dust cap often includes an anti-static spring. This spring grounds out any static electricity created by the wheel bearings. A lack of lubrication inside the dust cap can cause this spring to make noise.

“My 2006 envoy has four- wheel-drive that tries to lock up when in the AWD or 4-wheel HI

mode.  It does fine in 2 wheel drive and I have never messed with 4wd LO. I’ve only owned it for about 4 months and 3,000 miles. Not sure if it was OK when I bought it or not. It only has 46,000 miles on it.

I’ve had it to 2 different GM dealers. One said it is fine, you just can’t use these on dry roads   (which is not true according to the owner’s manual) and it will be fine in rain or snow (which I now know it isn’t)

The 2nd said everything checks out okay and they don’t have a clue what’s wrong.  At least I had an honest answer.

The “locking up” is accompanied by a grinding noise and doesn’t seem to occur until you make at least a slight turn.  Do you have any ideas?  Where do I go now?”

Halderman:

Hard to diagnose but first make sure that all four tires have the same tread depth and the same inflation pressure. The wheels have to rotate at the same speed.

I heard back from Tom and he said:

“I never would have thought to look there! The front tires are Falken with about 8,000 miles on them.     The rears are Goodyear with very good tread but are worn more than the front tires. Do you think if I buy two exactly the same as the front they will be close enough?”

Halderman:

The exact size of a tire can vary with brand so all should be the same brand and size and of course with equal tread depth. Your call on what you want to do about it and this might not fix your concern but at least this is one possible cause.

Tom finally wrote back with good news:

“Just a note of thanks for your advice. I put four new tires on it and much of the problem is gone.

Thanks again”

“I rotated my tires on my 2004 Chevrolet truck thinking that a vibration I was feeling was a tire related but it did not help.

Unfortunately something weird is going on. When I hit 25MPH or so I start getting a serious vibration in the steering wheel which continues to about 40 MPH or so then it goes away. As I increase to 70MPH it is fine and pretty smooth.

I have noticed that this serious vibration is only when the drive train is under load. The moment I back off the accelerator the vibration goes away but as soon as I push the accelerator the vibration comes back when I’m between 25MPH and 40MPH.

So what could this be? I’ve never seen this condition before”.

Halderman:

Sounds like a driveshaft angle problem. When a vehicle accelerates, the driveshaft moves and the forces are applied to the universal joints (U-joints).  A collapsed transmission mount is the most likely cause of a vibration that changes under load.  This would change the angle that the u-joints are working under and can cause them to be different front to rear, causing a vibration.

Update: I heard back from Gary after he took it to a local shop and here is what he told me:

“I just finished getting my truck repaired. We looked at all the motor mounts and transmission mount and they surprisingly were okay. So we went over the whole drive train and found both universal joints were shot. In fact, the mechanic said they were so bad that the drive shaft was practically ready to fall off.

So I’m just driving around town under 40 MPH and all the vibration and steering wheel shaking is gone. Thanks for your help”.

“Recently we had my son’s Subaru all-wheel-drive vehicle in the shop for an oil change.  The oil change took place at a local dealer. When we picked the car up, we were told that we had one tire that was not the same tread as the other three tires and that this miss-match would cause differential problems in the future. We were advised to get the same tread as the other three tires and of course the dealership would be glad to sell us one. Is this true, do we need to match that one tire with the others to avoid differential problems?  Any comment from you would be most appreciated!”

Halderman:

Yes, that is true. Having just one tire that is not within 1/32 inch of the others can cause premature wear or other problems, such a vibration or shuttering conditions. Also, if the tires are not all the same size, premature wear can occur to driveline components. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is equipped with three differentials:

1. One at the front to allow the two front wheels to rotate at slightly different speeds when the vehicle turns corners as the outside wheel will travel a further distance than the inside wheel.
2. One at the rear wheel for cornering.
3. One in between the two axles to allow for a difference in speed between front and rear wheels.

While the differentials can allow for these differences, to keep them working as designed, all four wheels and tires should have the same exact diameter. If one tire is worn more than the others or if a new tire is installed in any location, the result is a slight difference in speed of rotation of the tire in relation to the others. Therefore, most experts recommend that all four tires be the same size and tire brand as there can be slight differences in diameter with different tire brands.

“My teenage daughter recently had the oil changed in the handed-down 2004 Toyota Camry she is currently driving. The technician told her the seals on the axle were broken and no grease was on the axle. He advised her to get it repaired but said it wasn’t urgent. What can you tell me about this? How soon do we have to have it repaired? Will it be expensive?”

Halderman:

I think what the technician meant by the statement is that there was no grease on the axle was referring to the front-wheel-drive axle shaft boots that hold grease used to lubricate the constant velocity joints (CV joints). Either one of these should be corrected as soon as possible to avoid additional expense. Will it be expensive? If the CV joints are worn, the cost could be expensive, but if only the boots need to be replaced, the cost could be $100 or less per boot. I suggest you get another opinion from an experienced service technician and an estimate of the cost.

Have an automotive question? Please write to Jim with your questions at jim@jameshalderman.com

“I am leasing a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado pickup truck and I love it. Then last week a passenger noticed that my steering wheel appeared to be crooked. When looking at it, I realized that he was right and that the steering column appears to be angled toward the driver’s door. I thought it was just the way the passenger was looking at it, but now I am truly convinced that it is indeed angled or crooked. If I look down at the front of the seat from above, the bottom of the steering wheel doesn’t line up straight. Is this in the design, or do I need to get it back to the dealer and get it addressed? “

Halderman:

This is normal and you didn’t notice it yourself until someone pointed it out to you. This has been used on Chevrolet and GMC pickup trucks for many years.  It was designed this way to align the steering column with the steering gear. Being offset about 3 degrees also allows a little more room for a center passenger when the trucks were equipped with a bench seat.  Most people, like you, do not notice this, but it has been corrected with the new for 2019 trucks from General Motors. When your lease is up, consider updating to the new truck and you will find that the steering wheel is now in the straight-ahead position like most other vehicles.

“My dad had a 1996 Grand Caravan, with I think 90,000 miles on it.  While he was turning out of a parking lot, one of the ball joints broke.   He probably hadn’t had the suspension reliably checked ever.

Now to my concern: I remember in the old days you used to have joints with grease fittings, so you could fill everything with grease every year or oil change or whatever.  More recently, they’ve begun to make joints with “maintenance free” or “sealed” joints.  A big part of me would worry about the water and dirt getting in.

#1) Should I needle inject grease into my fittings with every oil change or yearly to ensure a full packing of grease, or is the risk of contamination through the hole a far worse prospect than leaving the joints alone?

#2) Is this Chrysler phenomenon specific to Chrysler, or should I worry about my cars dropping tie-rod ends even if I check them faithfully for play, and detect none?”

Halderman:

For this question I called in an expert at the Federal Mogul training center in St. Louis, Steve Cartwright. Here is his answer.

“Although, it is not common for internal rust to keep a part tight and then for it to fall off unexpectedly, this is definitely possible.  Normally, looseness would be found far before separation.

A joint without fittings is not immune to internal contamination.  In fact, the failure mode of most non grease able original equipment joints is to have a tear or separation of the boot, allowing water to wash out the original equipment grease and then rust the stud.  The stud then acts as a file, eating away at the plastic internal bearing until looseness occurs.  This looseness dramatically reduces tire life and affects vehicle handling.  In severe cases, as your reader has seen, separation can occur and possibly lead to an accident.  Luckily, most joints separate while turning sharply at low speed because this is when they are subjected to the most loads.  Any non-grease able component has the potential for separation if the grease is washed out and severe rust develops before inspection.

I would not recommend piercing the original equipment boot with a needle tip grease gun. The likelihood of the grease reaching the point where it needs to be would be slim. If the boot is intact, I believe it is best to let it perform as intended until looseness is identified during inspection.  Some original equipment joints can still develop looseness even if the boot is intact due to plastic deformation from loads.   If your reader desires to solve these problems, he might want to consider the use of metal construction and grease fittings (MOOG brand).  We recommend lubrication at each oil change interval or about every 4,000 miles.”

Thanks Steve for your very detailed and informative answer.

“I have a 1989 Dodge Spirit LE I bought from a friend of my grandson. It was leaking some sort of fluid, not bad, but enough I was concerned. I took it to a friend of my sons who told me it was the rack and pinion gear. I really needed to put a new one on it. The cost for labor and parts was over $300. I don’t go anywhere unless it’s a necessity. This mechanic said he wouldn’t drive it outside city limits. He really upset me and I’ve been afraid to go anywhere at all. Then someone knew a guy who said he could fix nearly everything. He said to go to an auto parts store and buy an additive for power steering. Drain the unit and fill up with this and it would seal around the leak. My question is, will this do the job and stop the leak with no harm done? Should I invest in it and could I drive farther than I do now and not worry?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. This is a tough one to answer because I always try to recommend that vehicles be serviced and repaired using the factory recommended products and procedures. Your vehicle is now over 20 years old so lower cost options may be appropriate now. A couple of thoughts:

1. If the steering gear is leaking from the ends out of the rubber boots, this means that the internal seals are leaking. Because these are in a high-pressure part of the system, an additive will not usually help.
2. If the leak is located at the high-pressure hose, either the pump itself or at the steering gear assembly (rack and pinion steering gear), a replacement high-pressure hose is needed. This is the most likely cause of the power steering leak and will cost less than a replacement steering gear assembly.
3. Using an additive may or may not slow or stop the leak, depending on the location of the leak.

Therefore, I think more information is needed. If you decide to use a stop leak chemical, be sure to follow the instructions on the container.

“All cars used to have frames. Then came the unit-body. Now your articles reference chassis or platforms, sub-frames, etc. After following cars for 50 years, I’m confused! An article explaining the differences would help.”

Halderman:

Frame construction usually consists of channel-shaped steel beams welded and/or fastened together. The frame of a vehicle supports all the “running gear” of the vehicle, including the engine, transmission, rear axle assembly (if rear-wheel drive), and all suspension components.

There are several different types of frames including:

• Full frame– This frame construction is so complete that most vehicles can usually be driven without the body. Most trucks and larger rear-wheel-drive cars use a full frame.
• Ladder frame is a common name for a type of perimeter frame where the transverse (lateral) connecting members are straight across.

When viewed with the body removed, the frame resembles a ladder. Most pickup trucks are constructed with a ladder-type frame.

• Perimeter frame consists of the body. This means that the frame members provide support underneath the sides as well as for the suspension and suspension components.
• Stub-type frame is a partial frame often used on unit-body vehicles to support the power train and suspension components. It is also called a cradle on many front-wheel-drive vehicles.

Vehicles that do not use a separate frame include:

• Unit-body construction (sometimes called unibody) is a design that combines the body with the structure of the frame. The body supports the engine and drive line components, as well as the suspension and steering components. The body is composed of many individual stamped-steel panels welded together. The strength of this type of construction lies in the shape of the assembly. The typical vehicle uses 300 separate and different stamped steel panels that are spot-welded to form a vehicle’s body.
• Space frame construction consists of formed sheet steel used to construct a framework for the entire vehicle. The vehicle is drivable without the body, which uses plastic or steel panels to cover the steel framework.

Besides types of construction, vehicles are identified by platform which refers its basic size and shape. Various vehicles of different makes can share the same platform, and therefore many of the same drive train (engine, transmission, and final drive components) and suspension and steering components. A platform of a unit-body vehicle includes all major sheet metal components that form the load-bearing structure of the vehicle, including the front suspension and engine-supporting sections.

Examples of common platforms include the following:

1. Chevrolet Impala and Pontiac Grand Prix
2. Toyota Camry and Lexus ES 350
3. Buick Lucerne and Cadillac DTS

“I have a friend who was told by a mechanic, doing some repairs on my friend’s car, a late model Chevy, that he had a broken sway bar. It is broken at one end.

Where is it located and is there any danger of it shifting and doing damage to something else?”

Halderman:

A sway bar is actually called a stabilizer bar or anti-sway bar. It is a steel bar that runs across and underneath the vehicle and is attached to the lower control arms on both sides. It is not unusual in Ohio and other northern states for rust and corrosion to cause these bars to break, especially at the end. The bar is kept in place by two stabilizer bar bushings in the center of the vehicle so the bar should not fall or move. The broken ends could touch when driving over rough pavement and make a loud noise.

A stabilizer bar is used to keep the vehicle from leaning while cornering. When broken it is not able to perform this function, and therefore, could cause the vehicle to be unstable at times. I suggest that this bar be replaced as soon as possible. All suspension components have to be purchased new and cannot be purchased used from a wrecking (recycling) yard. If a vehicle has been damaged, there could be damage to the suspension parts that may not show up during a visual inspection, so these parts cannot be sold for reuse.

Today I drove to lunch with four other co-workers in my Honda CRV. I had three normal size adults, probably about 550 lbs. in the back seat. I noticed a severe rubbing/scraping sound on turns with them back there. Sounded awful, and could feel drag on the turn. But without them back there, no noise, no problem. So what are your thoughts? It sat out in the ice, so I thought it was still ice, but I had already driven it 50+ miles after everything had thawed out and no visible ice anywhere, plus it was 50 degrees. And I even checked the rear wheel well for obstructions and saw nothing. Thoughts?

Halderman:

I think the noise you were hearing was the tire rubbing in the wheel well. With five adults in a small sport utility vehicle, it is likely that you exceeded the gross vehicle weight (GVW) of the vehicle. Look at the tire inflation pressure placard on or near the driver’s door. There you will see the vehicle capacity including passengers and luggage. The amount of weight that a vehicle can carry is calculated by the vehicle manufacturer that for each passenger, which is a place with its own safety belt, times 150 pounds. If there are five seat belt positions then 5 times 150 pounds is 750 pounds. I looked up the CRV for the Honda CRV and it lists the passenger and luggage capacity to be 850 pounds, which means that it can carry five 150 pound passengers plus 100 pounds of luggage. Of course, most adults weigh more than 150 pounds each and the passengers may include children making the average lower. With 550 pounds just in the back seat plus the driver and front seat passenger, I am sure that the vehicle was overloaded. Thank goodness you did not drive very far because a tire failure could have resulted. The rear springs could also “take a set” and not restore the vehicle to its original height.

“My son purchased new tires for his Camry. When he got home he noticed they were one way directional, which means you cannot cross rotate unless you remove tires from rim. Is front to rear rotation adequate?”

Halderman: 

Yes, rotating them front to rear is actually the most commonly used method and works well. The first rotation is the most important. Try to perform this at about 5,000 to 7,500 miles.

The usual tire rotation method is to switch sides of the non-drive wheels and go straight back or rear for the drive wheels. This method is called the “modified X” method. I always remember this saying:

“Drive wheels straight; cross the non-drive wheels”.

This means on a front wheel drive vehicle:

The front wheels are moved to the rear on the same side. The rear wheels are crossed and moved forward. By following this modified X method, every tire will eventually be in every wheel position. Some wheels cannot be rotated such as many high-performance vehicles that not only use directional tires but also different sizes front and rear. In this case, the tires must remain where they are and simply replaced (always in pairs) when they are worn.

Have an automotive question? Get a straight answer by writing to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

“This fall, when it got cold, an orange or amber warning light came on that looks like a horseshoe. After driving the car for a few miles, the light went out and stayed out for the rest of the day. I have had warning lights come on before but nothing that looks like a horseshoe. I tried to tighten my gas cap and that has worked for me in the past. However, the next morning the horseshoe light came on again. What do you think this is and what is wrong with my car?”

Halderman:

The “horseshoe” shaped dash warning light represents a tire and the warning light is used to notify the driver of a tire that has low inflation pressure. All passenger vehicles since 2007 have been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that will light a dash light to warn the driver of a tire that has lost inflation pressure by 25% of the recommended pressure as stated on the driver’s door placard. What likely happened was that when the temperature dropped, the pressure inside the tire decreased because as the temperature and pressure are related. A drop in temperature of 10 degrees will cause the tire pressure to drop 1 PSI.

Therefore, check the inflation pressure of all of the tires, including the spare with a full-size spare tire is used because many SUVs use a tire pressure sensor in the spare as well as in each of the four tires on the ground. If one tire continues to lose inflation pressure, ask a professional serviced technician to find the root cause and get it corrected to keep the light out.

For a free chart that can be downloaded showing all of the dash warning symbols  with their meaning, visit www.jamesahalderman.com

Have an automotive related question? Write to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

“I am the sole owner of a 2008 Camry with 128,000 miles on it. It is in seemingly great condition, as I have maintained it with great care, with regular oil changes (4,000-5,000 miles) and all the other routine maintenance requirements. But since new tires were installed, my fuel economy has decreased 12-15%. I mentioned this to my local Toyota dealership (who does most of my maintenance) and they said that without the “Check Engine” light illuminating (it’s not), there’s nothing they can do. I did notice some mild engine surge at idle a month or 2 ago, but that stopped and has not reoccurred. Do you have any ideas?  Am I being too “anal” over “normal” fuel economy fluctuations?

Halderman:

With your history with the vehicle, it appears that something happened and that could be a few things including:

1. The tires are very good, but may not be low rolling resistance (LRR) type tires.
2. Double check that the inflation pressure is as specified on the driver’s door placard.

NOTE: The advice from a Goodyear engineer is, “The tires could be some of it. Worn tires give the least rolling resistance so depending on what the old tires were, there could be 2 mpg between old, low rolling resistance”.

3. It is normal for fuel economy to drop in cold weather due to the change to winter-blend gasoline and the colder temperatures making any engine use fuel to achieve normal operating temperature.

Have an automotive question? Please write to Jim with your questions at jim@jameshalderman.com

“I purchased a compact Ford Fiesta and every little bump vibrates through the seats and has a very loud road noise. This car came with hard, noisy thumping tires.

I saw a printout saying you can increase the size from P185/60 X15 to 195, 205 and up to P225/50 X15.

What is the advantage and disadvantage to changing size?

What tires do you recommend for a softer ride with less road noise?”

Halderman:

The first thing I would check would be the tire inflation pressure. Too high inflation pressure is a major cause of harsh riding concerns. The correct pressure is found on the driver’s door pillar on a placard or sticker. Do not inflate the tires to the pressure indicated on the sidewalls which is listed as the maximum pressure.  Installing a larger tire often will increase ride comfort up to a point where the sidewall is reduced, thereby reducing the amount of cushion that it provides. A lower profile tire, such as a 50 series tire, will often ride harsher than a 60 series tire.  As a rule-of-thumb, you can safely increase the size by 10 mm without causing too much of a concern. Therefore, my suggestion would be to go to a P195/60X 15 to replace the original P185/60 X15 tires.

Before selecting the size, use an online tire size calculator which will show how each possible size will affect the speedometer reading and other details.

Regarding which tires offer the best ride and less noise, I refer to www.tirerack.com.

They include on their website customer ratings for all tires. This has been a big help to me when selecting tires. Many lower priced tires are often rated higher than many premium brands check all tires in the size that best fits your vehicle.

“My low tire light is flashing on my 2007 Dodge. When it does, I have a diagram showing me which tire, or tires in my case, is low. Most of the time, it’s my right front and left rear. The tire that’s okay shows a pressure of 32 PSI, and the low ones are usually flashing 27-29 PSI.  Does this mean I just need new tires? We had our mechanic take them off and check them, but couldn’t seem to find the problem. My husband said I will probably need new tires soon and I think maybe this means I do. Once again, thank you for your help”.

Halderman:

If the tire pressure warning light is on, this means that the system has detected a low tire. If the light is flashing this means that the system has detected a fault. The most likely fault is a bad tire pressure sensor. Each sensor has a battery with a life on 7 to 10 years so the sensors are nearing the end of their useful life and should be replaced when the tires are replaced. While this is an additional expense, it is something that will be required. Therefore, if the vehicle needs new tires, then replace the all of the sensors at the same time. A special tire pressure monitor system (TPMS) tool or an enhanced scan tool will be needed to determine what is causing the tire pressure warning light to flash. This may be a wise investment to have checked before going to the expense of new tires and sensors especially if the fault is found to be something else in the system, such as the receiving module that receives the signals from the tire pressure sensors.

Note to readers:

It is now officially spring and time to have the oil and oil filter changed if you are following the seasons. I will remind everyone again about June 21, the first day of summer.

“My 2006 envoy has four- wheel-drive that tries to lock up when in the AWD or 4-wheel HI

mode.  It does fine in 2-wheel drive and I have never messed with 4wd LO. I’ve only owned it for about 4 months and 3,000 miles. Not sure if it was OK when I bought it or not. It only has 46,000 miles on it.

I’ve had it to 2 different GM dealers. One said it is fine, you just can’t use these on dry roads   (which is not true according to the owner’s manual) and it will be fine in rain or snow (which I now know it isn’t)

The 2nd said everything checks out okay and they don’t have a clue what’s wrong.  At least I had an honest answer.

The “locking up” is accompanied by a grinding noise and doesn’t seem to occur until you make at least a slight turn.  Do you have any ideas?  Where do I go now?”

Halderman:

Hard to diagnose but first make sure that all four tires have the same tread depth and the same inflation pressure. The wheels have to rotate at the same speed.

I heard back from Tom and he said:

“I never would have thought to look there! The front tires are Falken with about 8,000 miles on them.     The rears are Goodyear with very good tread but are worn more than the front tires. Do you think if I buy two exactly the same as the front they will be close enough?”

Halderman:

The exact size of a tire can vary with brand so all should be the same brand and size and of course with equal tread depth. Your call on what you want to do about it and this might not fix your concern but at least this is one possible cause.

Tom finally wrote back with good news:

“Just a note of thanks for your advice. I put four new tires on it and much of the problem is gone.

Thanks again”.

“I read and enjoy your columns.  You always say to follow the manufacturer’s guidance regarding tire pressure.  On my Buick, I have the door sticker prescribed tires.  The door sticker says to inflate to 30 psi.  The tire itself says not to inflate beyond 44 psi.  I don’t like the disparity and would appreciate some sort of official answer.  The 30 psi seems a bit low and it seems like that would be hard on the tire.  Thanks for your advice”.

Halderman:

I asked a tire engineer this question and he told me that the 44 psi designation represents the maximum pressure and where the maximum load weight carrying is determined.    The recommended tire inflation pressure, as stated on the driver’s door placard is determined after extensive testing by both the vehicle manufacturer and the tire manufacturer.  Higher inflations most likely create a smaller footprint area and will change the wear characteristics (not always for the better), but can also reduce braking traction available.  Keep to the door placard inflation pressure. Be sure to check the inflation before the vehicle has been driven and do not let air out of a hot tire or it will be under inflated when it cools.

Have an automotive related question? Write to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

“I just finished reading your column “Rotate directional tires front to back.” You said again as you have previously that non-directional tires should use the modified X pattern, keeping the tires from the drive axle on the same side. What about full time four wheel drive like my 2013 Subaru Outback. The Outback/Legacy owner’s manual recommends rotating tires as you do, but my dealer insists that the tires must be kept on the same side of the car. I remember that when radial tires first came out in the 1960s there were issues about tire wear if the tires were crossed, but I do not know of any such concerns now. I would prefer to cross the tires for even wear. In the past I have asked dealer sales people for recommendations, but they are reluctant to make any”.

Halderman:

As you saw there are many old recommendations that are still being used in the industry. I think the dealer is being very conservative and by not cross rotating the tires, it is less likely to cause any harm. A problem may occur if the tires are not rotated until later in the life of the tire. Then problems can occur. If they are rotated every 5,000 miles (especially the first rotation),  there should not be a problem. Of course, this assumes that all four wheels and tires are the same and can be rotated side to side. Some tires are directional and have an arrow imprinted in the sidewall indicating which direct the tire has to rotate. If the vehicle is equipped with directional tires, then they cannot be rotated using the modified X method.

Have an automotive question? Get a straight answer by writing to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

“I am hoping you could clarify a couple things for me.  I have a 245/ 45 tire on my car on which I am taking measurements.  At 245, its tread width should be 9.6″.  I measure 8.5″.  Using the 245 to calculate the sidewall height, it should be 110 mm or 4.3″ tall.  Mine measures 3.5″.  I assume this measurement is taken from the ground surface to the outside edge of the rim.  The numbers don’t seem to match.  Are the measurements made for a tire not installed and inflated?  Any explanation for the discrepancy?”

Halderman:

The width of the tire is not the width of the tread but instead is the “cross-sectional” width so this is why I think your measurements are not aligned to the size. The section width (245) is the maximum width of the tire (widest part of the sidewall) of the tire mounted on the nominal wheel width (as specified by the Tire and Rim Association) and inflated. The section height (45) is 45% of the section width. This includes the bead area which is below the wheel lip and is not visible/measurable when the tire is mounted. A 17” wheel is 17”. Diameter is measured where the tire bead sits, not the visible diameter of the wheel with a tire mounted.

Also, please note that tire size can vary by tire manufacturer. In fact, one “green tire” as an uncured tire is called, can be made in many different sizes of tires, depending on which mold is used. In other words, while it appears to be very detailed as to the width and height that the tire should be, it is far from true for many tires. That is why we always recommend that the same size and brand of tire be used on the vehicle, especially all-wheel and four-wheel- drive vehicles.

“I had my 2010 Chevrolet truck in a shop for service (oil change and air and cabin filter). When I picked it up, the shop manager showed me a check list showing that everything looked good except that my rear tires were at 4/32 inch of tread depth and the front tires had 6/32. He said that I should consider purchasing new tires soon. He said that while they are within acceptable tread depth, they are also almost ten years old and most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing tires that old regardless of tread depth. Is this true?”

Halderman:

Yes. In fact, many automotive experts recommend replacing tires when they are six years old regardless of tread depth and the Consumer Report magazine state that they recommend that tires not be used after ten years. Your shop was doing the right thing by bringing this to your attention. The legal limit for tire tread depth is 2/32 inch. All tread depth is measured in 32nds of an inch and includes the following:

• New tires- 9/32 to 11/32 inch depending on the tire. High-performance tires usually come new with 9/32 inch of tread depth whereas luxury car tires often have as much as 11/32 inch of thread depth.
• 4/32 inch- the depth where many experts recommend that the tire be replaced. Use quarter coin and if you can see the top of Washington’s head, then it is less than 4/32 inch. If at or less than this depth, then new tires are recommended.
• 2/32 inch- the legal limit for the tread depth. Use penny coin and if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, then it is less than 2/32 inch. If at or less than this depth, new tires are required.

“Recently we had my son’s Subaru all-wheel-drive vehicle in the shop for an oil change.  The oil change took place at a local dealer. When we picked the car up, we were told that we had one tire that was not the same tread as the other three tires and that this miss-match would cause differential problems in the future. We were advised to get the same tread as the other three tires and of course the dealership would be glad to sell us one. Is this true, do we need to match that one tire with the others to avoid differential problems?  Any comment from you would be most appreciated!”

Halderman:

Yes, that is true. Having just one tire that is not within 1/32 inch of the others can cause premature wear or other problems, such a vibration or shuttering conditions. Also, if the tires are not all the same size, premature wear can occur to driveline components. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is equipped with three differentials:

1. One at the front to allow the two front wheels to rotate at slightly different speeds when the vehicle turns corners as the outside wheel will travel a further distance than the inside wheel.
2. One at the rear wheel for cornering.
3. One in between the two axles to allow for a difference in speed between front and rear wheels.

While the differentials can allow for these differences, to keep them working as designed, all four wheels and tires should have the same exact diameter. If one tire is worn more than the others or if a new tire is installed in any location, the result is a slight difference in speed of rotation of the tire in relation to the others. Therefore, most experts recommend that all four tires be the same size and tire brand as there can be slight differences in diameter with different tire brands.

“I have a vehicle that is not used very often but when I do, it shakes as if the tires are square.  I know to drive the vehicle about ten miles before it rides normally.  What is the most likely cause?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money on it just for this problem.  Thanks.”

Halderman:

The most likely reason for the harsh and bumpy ride is that the tires have “taken a set” from being parked.  This is normal for many types of tires, especially high-performance tires that use an overlay ply over the steel belt.  When the vehicle is parked, the tires “flat-spot” where they contact the ground and it takes a while until the tire becomes round again. If the vehicle is stored for a long period, this flat-spotting can become permanent and ruin the tires which would then require replacement.  The least expensive thing to do is nothing.  There are several ways to help avoid this issue including:

• Overinflate the tires about 4 PSI higher than the door placard pressure to help reduce the amount of deflection of the tire.
• If stored for several weeks or more, consider using a curved platform where the tires can be kept round.
• Use a jack and safety stands to raise the vehicle off the ground when not being used.

If replacing the tires, check that the material used includes polyester or rayon and try to avoid tires that contain nylon to help reduce this flat-spotting.

Have an automotive related question? Write to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

Jane of Dayton writes that she is concerned that her Buick needed new brakes at 33,000 miles.  She feels that brakes should last longer than this and wants to know your opinion.

Halderman:

Jane included a copy of the repair order, which states that the front brakes were worn.  This may mean that they are partially worn or could mean that they were worn to the point that the service technician thought they should be replaced.  Many service technicians recommend replacement of front disc brake pads whenever they are worn to 50% or less of the original usable thickness.  According to one industry standards,

• The disc brake pads are “required” to be replaced whenever the thickness of the friction material is at or below the minimum allowable thickness as specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
• If the friction material thickness is close to the minimum, then the service technician can “suggest” replacement because it is close to the end of its service life.

There is another factor to consider and this is that any service work performed on the braking system should be performed to “restore the braking system to as new condition.”  It is this last statement that I believe the technician and the dealership thought when it performed a rear brake cleaning and adjustment and suggested the replacement of the front disc brake pads.  Brake service life is extremely variable based on driving habits, speeds, as well as vehicle weight and type of driving.  A front-wheel-drive vehicle such as Jane’s Buick is also harder on front brakes than most rear-wheel-drive vehicles because up to 80% of the braking is performed by the front brakes alone.

For example, if the vehicle was driven on the highway every day, the brakes could last much longer than 33,000 miles because the brakes are not being applied during most of the travel.  A vehicle used in city driving may require brake replacement every 20,000 miles.  Apparently, Jane did ask that the brakes be inspected.  It was not mentioned in Jane’s letter, but I would assume that the dealer notified her of the condition of the brakes and did get approval before the replacement of the front disc brake pads.

Have an automotive related question? Write to Jim at jim@jameshalderman.com

“Hi Jim,

I was hoping you could give me some advice. I have owned my 1987 Corvette for about 10 years it has 140,000 miles on the odometer.  I bought it from a friend who purchased it new so I know a little about the history of the car. It has been well maintain with a repaint and new interior, the engine and automatic transmission are original, it has good brake lining (70%) and rotors, which all have been replaced. It is a second car just to drive for fun in nice weather. The last couple of summers when driving on a hot day say 80 or 90 degrees, usually around 35 or 40 mph the left front brake will apply and lock, you can feel the car beginning to pull to the left. I stop the car and when I get out to inspect it, you can feel the heat coming from the left front brake rotor with a little smoke. I get back in the car and the brake pedal goes to the floor and the brake has released, I do have minimal braking, enough to limp home but it is not very safe. If I let the car sit the next day the brakes are working fine. There are no ABS or brake lights coming on, so if I take to the shop I do not think they will find anything wrong. This has happened 3 or 4 times in the last couple of summers. Do you think I should put a new brake caliper or wheel sensor on the left front wheel? I don’t want to replace parts that do not need it. Always enjoy reading your car advice.”

Halderman:

The most likely cause of your brake problem is due to a stuck caliper on the left front and/or a defective flexible brake line on the left front. Either of these can cause the brakes on the left front to remain slightly applied and cause heat to be generated. The heat from the stuck brake then can cause the brake fluid to boil. When the brake fluid boils, this causes an almost total loss of braking power.

I suggest that the car be taken to a professional service technician who can check the caliper and the brake fluid. It is difficult at times to spot a defective brake hose because the inner liner can collapse causing the brake fluid to be trapped in the caliper and not returned to the master cylinder. Because the car is about 18 years old, the service technician may recommend that the brake system be restored with new brake calipers and flexible brake lines, and then replacement of the brake fluid.

I consider myself a pretty handy guy in the garage, but this issue has me a little stumped.  I recently purchased a 2007 Mazda 3.  It has about 70k miles on it, has abs and traction control.  I was on the highway and had to make a “panic stop” and hit the brakes very hard, but just momentarily, when I lifted off the brake pedal, the brakes did not release immediately.  There was just a half second delay, during which it almost felt like they were being applied even harder…. then they released.   I was so confused by what just happened that I had to think about ” what just happened”.  Since that time I have had two more occasions that I had to hit the brakes pretty hard, and when I lifted, there was a momentary delay before the braking stopped.  It has never been as pronounced as that first time on the highway, but I am concerned about the issue.  I am afraid to take it to the dealership and have them just start replacing parts.  Any ideas where to look, or is there some troubleshooting I can do on my own to narrow it down?

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I think your vehicle is equipped with a brake assist system. If the system detects a panic stop situation, the system keep the brake applied even though research has shown that drivers will often release the brake pedal force. This is why this system was designed.

See what I wrote in one of my textbooks:

“Some vehicles are equipped with a brake assist system (BAS) that applies the brakes with maximum force if the system detects that the driver is making a panic stop. Tests performed by

brake engineers have indicated that it is normal for a person to first apply the brakes rapidly during a panic situation. However, it was also found that the driver would tend to reduce the force applied to the brake pedal. As a result, the vehicle did not brake with the maximum effort.

OPERATION:

The brake assist system opens an air valve on the rear part of the vacuum booster assembly. As a result, more air at atmospheric pressure can flow into the rear chamber of the vacuum booster, thereby increasing the force applied to the master cylinder. The BAS function works with the electronic stability control (ESC) system to ensure maximum braking efficiency during evasive or emergency situations. If the speed of the brake pedal application exceeds a predetermined limit as determined by the brake pedal travel sensor, the ABS controller energizes the BAS solenoid valve. When the solenoid valve opens, additional air at atmospheric pressure enters the driver’s side of the booster. The additional pressure applies the brakes faster and with more force. The BAS solenoid is de-energized when the brake is released and normal braking returns”.

“I have a 1968 Pontiac Firebird that has been completely gone through. It has the original two piston disc brakes. The car was finished about five years ago. The brakes were fine  for several years. After setting for 2-3 months when I drove it the rear brakes were not working. When I checked there is very little pressure getting to the rear brake cylinders. When I open the bleeders, I get no pressure. I get just a dribble of fluid. I had the master cylinder rebuilt. the rebuilder said that he saw nothing wrong with it. The front calipers were rebuilt with new stainless inserts, the brake lines are new stainless. I am using silicone dot 5 fluid.  A knowledgeable friend thought I should replace the rubber brake line  at the differential, which I did, still no pressure. About the only thing that hasn’t been redone is the equalizer valve. It looked fine when it was installed and as I said the car had very good brakes for several years. I am not familiar with these valves. Is there a procedure for checking them and resetting them? Any thoughts you might have or information would certainly be appreciated. I audited several of your classes at Sinclair in the 1990s I certainly enjoyed yours and other classes I took. Thanking you in advance for any help you can provide”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. While the valves can fail, most of the time, the problem is due to air in the valve or in the system. It is very difficult to get the air out. If you have time, try this:
1. Fill the master cylinder
2. Open all of the bleeder valves or just the rear if you think the front is OK
3. Allow gravity to purge the air from the system. This could take several hours or several days.
4. Keep an eye on the fluid level and keep full or almost full. When the fluid level has dropped, close the bleeders and check the rear brakes.
Using DOT 5 fluid is making it harder to bleed as this fluid traps air.
If this does not work, try injecting brake fluid from the wheel cylinder upward toward the master cylinder using a reverse injection pump (check on line). Let men know what is happening and I will try to talk you through it. Nice hearing from a former student.

“I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 4X4 truck.  The brakes quickly fade when I am almost stopped at a stop sign or traffic light.  The brake pedal pulsates and sometimes you can hear a loud buzz from the pedal.  This problem occurred many times during cold weather.

The truck currently has 36,000 miles on it.

  About two years ago I took it to a local dealer, because the front wheels would lock up when the truck was parked overnight in wet weather.  They told me I had a bad bearing in the left front wheel and my brake rotors were rusted so badly they had pieces missing. Total for the bearing and brake job was over $900.00 dollars.  I later had the same wet weather lock up and it was determined the brake pads were swelling up when wet.  I was told this was normal.

  Some months later the wet weather lockup was so bad that I asked to have the pads replaced and they did so.  The sticking problem was gone but on occasion I feel the loss of braking power when slowing to a stop.  Thank you”.

Halderman:

I think what you are hearing and experiencing is the antilock braking system (ABS) being activated when you slowing to a stop. The front wheel bearing used on this truck is a sealed unit that contains two rows of ball bearings and a wheel speed sensor all in one assembly. If this bearing assembly wears, the wheel speed sensor cannot detect the speed of the wheel accurately and, as a result, the ABS controller starts to pulse the wheel brake because it “thinks” is is slowing faster than the other wheels. The controller is performing normally, but what is working is the speed signal from the wheel speed sensor. You stated that one front wheel bearing was replaced. I would suspect that the other front wheel bearing could be the source of your problem. Ask an experienced technician to check the output of the wheel speed sensor to verify improper operation before replacing the front wheel bearing/speed sensor assembly.

“Just got an e- mail from a friend and she wanted to know if I could take a look at her brakes this weekend. She says she has had to use her emergency brakes all week to stop her vehicle. When I called to talk with her, I had to tell her she doesn’t have emergency brakes, that she had been using her parking brake. Isn’t it true that the only time a person has back brakes is if they have 4 wheel disc brakes?”

Halderman:

I think there is a terminology problem with your comments and question. Before 1967 when there was just a single piston-type master cylinder, the mechanical braking system that applied the rear brakes was called the emergency brake. The standard that this system had to perform was to stop the vehicle within a specified distance using the emergency brake alone.  After 1967, this system was called the parking brake and the standard required the vehicle to be held without moving on an incline. The parking brake applies the brake shoes mechanically using a cable instead of force from the hydraulic brake system. The parking brake system has to use a separate system from the system that is used to apply the standard brakes, which are called the service brakes. The parking brake cable, operated by either a hand lever or a foot pedal, can apply the disc brake piston mechanically or a separate small drum brake inside the “hat” of the rear disc brake rotor.

Apparently your friend had a failure of the base brake system and she was smart enough to get the vehicle stopped using the parking brake. She should have stopped driving the vehicle and had it towed to a shop for repairs instead of driving it further however.

“I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee manufactured in 8/02.  I have had to replace the warped front brake rotors every 11,000 miles until 44,000 miles at which time they started acting warped right away.  So I quit replacing them and now anticipate the problem almost every time I use the brakes. The pulsating brake pedal and hit-and-miss brake action come and go.  My regular mechanic has the same problem with one of his vehicles and he doesn’t know what is causing the problem.  What do I need to do?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The problem is rotor run-out. It takes just a few thousand miles for the rotors to be worn out of parallel which causes the pedal pulsation. To cure this problem, you will have to measure and correct the rotor run out. The problem can be the bearing hub or even rust between the bearing hub and the rotor. Use a dial indicator and measure the run-out. If more than 0.003 inch, then this is the problem. They do make shims that can be used to correct this problem. I have had a similar problem, but once corrected, I never again had a pulsating brake pedal. I hope this helps.

Have an automotive question? Please write to Jim with your questions at jim@jameshalderman.com

The “Service Traction Control” warning has appeared on the dash of my 2007 Chevrolet Equinox but everything seems to be working normally. Is this a serious issue and should I ignore it or have it looked into?

Halderman:

Even though everything appears to working normally, I always suggest that warning lights be checked into as soon as possible. It is likely a failed sensor or an issue that the sensor has detected, such as any of the following:

• Unequal tire inflation pressures or tread depth that the wheel speed sensors have detected as a difference in the rotational speed of the four wheels.
• A sensor that is working but that the reading is not logical to the body computer. One example would be a yaw senor that shows that the vehicle is cornering but the steering wheel sensor indicates that the steering wheel is not being turned.

To find and correct this type of fault will require the use a of factory scan tool , called a Tech 2, or an aftermarket scan tool that has enhanced capabilities and is able to communicate with the body and chassis systems. Expect to pay for the diagnosis as well as any parts and labor that might be required.

“I have a 2000 Saturn model LS2 that on occasion the brake pedal will go all the way to the floor when trying to stop.  This doesn’t happen all the time and when I have my local mechanic look at it, he hasn’t been able to get this to happen.  When this happens if you pump the brakes, they will start working again and work just fine.  I had my mechanic put a new master cylinder on the car and it has acted up at least once since then.  I don’t know what to do.  The brakes work great 99% of the time but I am concerned about that 1%.  Is this a problem with Saturn cars?  Have you heard of this problem?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. While a master cylinder fault is the most likely for a sinking brake pedal concern, I think there is something else occurring here. This is not a common problem for a Saturn or any other vehicle but it can occur. I think what is happening is there is a faulty wheel bearing. If the brake rotor moves due to wear in a wheel bearing the caliper piston has to move further. When the caliper piston moves further, more brake fluid is needed and the brake pedal drops. I suggest that you ask a professional service technician to inspect all wheel bearings and calipers for proper operation. The problem could be due to just one wheel brake and either in the front or the rear so a thorough brake inspection will be needed.

“I purchased a 2002 Dodge Dakota recently with low miles.  I checked the brake pads and shoes to see if they needed replacement.  They were ok.  My problem is the right front caliper does not retract properly and therefore sticks, causing the pads to burn.  I have used high -temperature lubrication on the caliper pins, and this alleviates the problem for about 4 or 5 days.  The left caliper does not cause a problem.  Do I need to replace the caliper, and if so, do I need to replace both of them?  Is this a common problem?”

Halderman:

It sounds like the piston inside the caliper is stuck. Yes, this is a common problem.   Most of the time the problem is caused by, as you thought, sticking caliper guides.  These can stick due to rust and corrosion. Ohio winters do include snow and that usually means salt is used on the roads  leading  to corrosion of metal parts, especially under the vehicle. I suggest that you replace both calipers. Another possible cause is a restricted brake line. These can cause the caliper piston to stick also. Therefore, to be assured that the problem is solved, the best approach would be to replace both calipers and both flexible brake lines.

Wheels:

Is there anything Don can do to help prevent this from occurring again? 

Halderman:

No, there is not much that can be done except to have the brakes checked regularly to help prevent the sticking brakes from causing more harm. For example, if Don had not checked his brakes, the sticking caliper could have caused the brake pads to wear a lot sooner than normal. Then, if the brake pads were not replaced, the brake rotors can be worn, which often requires replacement.  Even though a regular brake inspection may cost some money, it is often money well spent and can help prevent expensive major brake repairs in the future. Regular brake inspections usually include the following:

• Brake fluid level and condition inspection
• Removing all four wheels and performing a visual inspection of the all four wheel brakes
• Checking the condition and thickness of the brake pads, rotors, and drums.
• A thorough test drive

“I’m working on a 2005 Mazda 6 S (the 6 cylinder).  The rear brakes are almost gone and I may just go ahead and do the fronts too.  The thing is that when I call car part stores, I get mixed messages.  I know you said I should put what came on it, in terms of ceramic, semi-metallic, or organic.  One store says the OEM is Semi-metallic front, and organic back.  Two dealers have said to me that both front and rear are semi-metallic.  Another store says that OEM is ceramic on both.   I would love to not have to go to the dealer to get the super expensive pads, unless that’s the best thing in the world to do.  The Advanced Auto pads are semi-metallic front and organic rear (both Wagner Thermoquiet).  The AutoZone pads are both semi-metallic (Duralast Gold).  I had one dealer guy physically look at some pads and tell me they’re both semi-metallic, so I would be depending on his ability to visually judge he difference.

The pads from the stores are about $51 to $62, with a lifetime warranty, whereas the ones from the dealer are $203.  What should I do?”

Halderman:

The name is mostly marketing. Almost every pad has ceramic in the mix and there are not standards for the amount before they are called that or almost any other term. I would suggest:
1. Purchase the exact factory pads
2. Purchase a known brand
3. Ignore the label or what they are called. There are too many variables to consider. For example, GM used (learned an engineer at the Vandalia plant), that they use over 200 different recipes depending on vehicle options and driver feel. That is just for GM vehicles!  Most  brake pads today are classified as non-asbestos organic (NAO) meaning that they do not contain asbestos but instead contain synthetic fibers such as Kevlar.  I know the cost is a consideration but how often will be the brakes be replaced? If you use good quality pads from a known manufacture, then you will get many years of service from them without excessive brake dust or noise.

“I was told I need to replace the ABS brake hydraulic control unit on my 2001 Ford Windstar since my ABS and BRAKE lights cycle on and off.

In my younger days, I worked in a brake repair shop and have some idea how brakes work, of course that was before ABS brakes.

Will your book, Automotive Brake Systems, 5th Ed, Professional Technician Series, tell me how to replace this unit?  Does it include a DVD or CD to illustrate this process?

I have a Ford Technical Service manual and it says I need the bleed tool T90P-50-ALA to correctly bleed the system after changing the hydraulic unit.  Is this true?

Thanks for any help you can give me.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. My textbook explains how brakes and antilock braking systems (ABS) work but it does not include service information regarding how to replace it or to bleed the system on each individual vehicle. While the textbook does come with supplements, these are designed to help automotive instructors teach brakes. The free supplemental information can be downloaded from the publisher website, these additional features are designed to help automotive instructors teach the topics and include thing such as:

• PowerPoint presentations for each chapter
• Test bank (list of questions that can be printed out in an order and for quizzes and tests).
• ASE certification test correction chart
• Image library that has all of the figures in the text. This allows instructors to use them on task sheets or for use in instructor created Power Points.
• NATEF-corrected task sheets for use by students in the lab while performing automotive service procedures.

Therefore, being a textbook rather than an instruction manual, more information will be needed for each vehicle being serviced. You can access and pay for service information that covers your individual vehicle from several sources such as:

1. All Data (alldata.com)

2. Mitchell On Demand (ondemand5.com)

It is correct that many service procedures do require the use of special tools. For example, many ABS units require that a factory scan tool be used to bleed the system so I think your best approach is to visit a professional service technician or shop and have them first verify that the unit is defective and then do the replacement for you.

“I read your column in the Dayton Daily News. A few weeks ago, I was out of town with my 2011 Honda Odyssey when the traction control system light came on, which is labeled VSA.  I checked the owner’s manual and it appeared not to be a crisis since it was summer and I wouldn’t even hit any rain for the trip home.  The engine operated normally for the 230-mile trip home.  My repair shop checked the code and the problem was a bad spark plug.   They replaced the plugs and the warning light went away.  The car had about 130,000 miles on it when this happened and the plugs had been replaced at about 100,000 miles, plus all the coils replaced at about 125,000 miles.  I don’t get the connection between the spark plugs and the traction control system. I hope you can help. Thanks. “

Halderman:

My guess is that a misfire code was set and caused the VSA system to turn off because of an “engine power” related issue.  I can’t find anything in service information that says the VSA will be disabled with a misfire, but the exact same thing happens if there are other engines-related problems.  It seems that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors engine operating condition and disables the VSA when it detects an abnormality.  There have been reports with issues with some Odyssey engines with sticking piston rings.  This causes oil consumption issues, and misfires due to fouled plugs.  My concern for this particular vehicle is that it has piston ring problems (resulting in misfires, plugs, coils) and is probably using oil.  Honda has issued a technical service bulletin 13-081 that gives more details.

“I recently purchased a 2013 Ford F-150 pick-up truck only to find that it does not have daylight running lights, a safety feature that I think should come standard on all vehicles.  I asked the dealer if it is possible to have the DRL installed through the dealership so as to not invalidate the new truck warranty.  I was told that the dealer does not offer that service or option.

My headlights have an auto-off feature so I could just leave the headlights on all of the time but that doesn’t seem to be the best option to me.  Is there a way to have DRL installed as an after-market feature without invalidating the new truck warranty and, if so, how?”

Halderman:

Ford makes a kit to do this but it will not work if you have HID headlights. The kit includes the relay and wiring needed to connect both high beams in series so that each high-beam bulb receives six volts and therefore lights dimly.  I ran into the same situation so I just drive around with my parking lights on.

There are several aftermarket kits usually using LEDs that can be easily installed. Do a Google search for LED daytime running lights to find the kit that you like best.

“I learned to drive back in the 1960s.  I was taught to keep my door locked because that would help keep it from popping open in the event of an accident.  Is that advice really relevant today, with all the additional strengthening in the doors?  If unlocked, at least it might help first responders to get the door open quicker. Regards.”

Halderman:

Great question. Today most vehicles are programmed to lock the doors when placed in gear or when driven above about five miles per hour. By locking the doors, the door latch is separated from the door handle. In an event of a crash this would prevent the doors from opening. Here is what happens and why the doors are locked:

1. In an accident (usually from the front), the movement can and will actually cause the door to open on impact.
2. This prevents the proper operation of the seat and curtain airbags.
3. With the doors locked and secured to the rest of the body of the vehicle, you are much more likley to survive a crash.

“I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox with a 3.4L engine and 58,000 miles on it.  When I turn the key to start position and release the key back, the engine keeps cranking for about 3-4 seconds like I am still holding the key in the start position.  It does eventually start.  I thought maybe the starter was bad so I took it to a parts store and had it tested.  The test showed a failure of the R-terminal.  I don’t know what that is.  I put a new starter on the car, but I am still having the same problem.  It only does this maybe once a day or every other day.  Do you have any suggestions as to what would cause this?  Could it be a fuel or spark problem?”

Halderman:

There is likely nothing wrong with your starter as the “R” terminal has not been used on a General Motors Co. vehicle since the mid-1970s. Your vehicle, like most late model vehicles, is computer controlled for engine cranking. In the old days, the ignition switch actually controlled the electrical current being sent to the starter and therefore would be directly controlled by the driver. This older system required a switch to prevent the operation of the starter unless the transmission was in “Park” or “Neutral” or the clutch pedal was depressed. Since the early 2000s, most vehicles use sensors that detect shifter position and clutch pedal position and the signals from these sensors are sent to the body control module (BCM). Once the BCM receives the signal that shows the gear selector is in Park or neutral, a crank request is sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which then sends electrical current to the starter solenoid and starter motor is engaged. The starter remains engaged until the PCM senses that the engine speed has exceeded 400 revolutions per minute (RPM) which means that the engine has started.

Therefore, it appears that there is an engine fault such as a weak electric fuel pump, leaking fuel injector, a defective fuel pressure regulator, or other fault that can be the cause of the extended cranking time. It could also be due to using gasoline that is not blended for the current temperatures, such as using winter-blend gasoline in warm weather or summer blend gasoline when the temperature is cold. If the problem continues after a few tanks of fuel or gets worse, ask for help from a professional service technician.

“Could you advise me please? My brother bought a flooded Audi S4, 2012 model. I need to know procedures or guidelines on how to fix a flooded car. Is there a manual or web site for it? I just don’t want mechanics to mess up the car while fixing it. Thanks a lot in anticipation”.

Halderman:

Boy, oh boy. I hope he did not pay much for this car. When a vehicle is under water, even if it only came above the floor, many faults are likely to occur, mostly electrical.

If the water reached just the carpet, there are many electronic modules and wiring that are located along the side rails and under the center of the vehicle. These modules are not water-proof and are not designed to be exposed to water.   There could be 30 or more of these electronic control modules in this vehicle. All of the electronic modules will have to be replaced because even though electrical devices, such as the radio and power windows, may work shortly after the car is dried out, corrosion will eat away at the wiring and the connectors.

If the water got as high as the top of the dash, or if it was salt water, then everything electrical in the entire vehicle is ruined. About the only thing that can be done to get some of the “investment” back is to strip everything from the vehicle and sell the sheet metal parts. Even the engine, transmission, and wheel bearings will likely need to be replaced or an expensive overhaul will be needed because water gets into these components through the vents.

The car should have come with a title that indicates that it is a flood damaged vehicle so selling it will be either impossible or illegal. Long story short; a flood damaged vehicle will never be right again.

“I have a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt that I just purchased and it has a problem that really bugs me. If you unlock the doors with the key fob it’s fine, but if you use the key, the horn starts to blow until you start the car with the key. My local dealer says that’s normal! I can’t believe that every  Cobalt is this way”.

Halderman:

The dealer is correct that this is normal operation. The car thinks that the door is being opened by force because only the key fob tells the body computer that it is being unlocked. There is no electrical connection between the lock cylinder and the computer. The dome light signals the computer that the door has been opened. As a result, the computer “sees” the dome light has been turned on, which was done when the door was opened, and the door switch is activated. The anti-theft system then thinks that the door was opened using without the alarm being de-actuated by the key fob and starts blowing the horn.

“I have a 2011 Buick Lucerne with ultra sound parking assist that works sometimes and I have had it to the dealer numerous times and have a claim with GM.  However, no one will fix, or address the problem. I do not know what their problem is as the dealer states it is not working properly however, they have no idea what is the matter, or how to fix the problem. When doing an online search, I discovered that there may be a technical service bulletin (TSB) that addresses this problem.  My question to you is do you have any idea what the problem is and how to rectify the problem? As a shade tree mechanic, I feel the problem is in the computer, however, I do not have the knowledge or equipment to address the problem.  Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

Halderman:

I was able to find a technical service bulletin that addresses your concern. It is #PIC5665, dated April 26, 2011.  This bulletin states that engineering has developed an updated calibration inside the park assist module which can be replaced at the dealer to address your concern. It appears that this is an internal calibration inside the electronic module and that no repair or adjustment is possible. You can take this bulletin number to your local Buick dealer and ask that the module be replaced. If you vehicle is within the warranty period, then there may not be a charge for the repair.

“I purchased a car that has power windows and for the first couple of days the passenger window would roll up, but not down using the driver’s window control panel.  However, the passenger window worked fine when using the passenger window control button.    Then after a few days the passenger window was froze in the up position and neither switch would make it go down.  I was told by a mechanic that driver’s window switch was bad and if that switch was replaced the window would work fine.

I then took it to a shop to have it fixed and explained that the passenger window would work off and on, but now it was in an up position and each time it stopped working it stopped in the up position.

The mechanic at this shop insisted on doing a diagnosis and afterwards I was told that it needed window regulator which included wiring, metal frame, and motor at a cost of around $700.00.     I wanted a few days to think about it and come up with the money.  About two days later, the window started working again. Then it stopped working after a short drive.

What are your thoughts?   Should I replace window regulator which includes the motor, metal frame, and wiring?   What would cause the driver switch to only work in one direction and the passenger switch works fine?  If I replace the window assembly, wiring and motor how would this make a difference in the drivers switch or do you think the drivers switch would still be a problem or do you think the drivers switch is the problem?  I would hate to put all this money into the window and still have a problem and or still have to replace the power switch on the driver panel.   The car is a GM product.”

Halderman:

All of the electrical current, whether it is from the driver’s side switch or the passenger side switch, flows through the passenger side switch. If the connection at this switch is loose this can be the cause of all of your problems. Because it comes and goes apparently from the movement or vibrations of driving the vehicle, it appears to be an electrical connection problem and not likely to be a mechanical window regulator problem. By the way, the term “regulator” refers to the scissor-like device inside the door that is used to move the window up and down.

“I have a 2001 Chevy Tracker.  Recently, after having the rack and pinion replaced, the horn does not work and the airbag light is on continuously.  I asked the repair shop that had done my work if they had done something or knew how to correct it, and they said they don’t.

I looked in the manual and it shows the air bag light and brake lights are on the same fuse.  My brake lights are working fine and the fuse is good. Any ideas? Thank you.”

Halderman:

My first thought was that the steering wheel moved while the steering rack was replaced. If the steering wheel moved, the electrical cable that conducts current for the horn and the airbag could have been misadjusted causing both problems, I suggest that you return to the shop and ask them to check the “clock spring” that is under the steering wheel to be sure that it is not broken.

A clock spring can be damaged if the steering wheel was not locked in position when the steering rack assembly is removed. With the steering rack removed, the steering wheel is free to rotate and this could cause the coil of connecting wires to reach the end and then break.

“About six years ago I purchased a 2000 Ford Focus, with a five speed manual transmission and AM/FM DVD radio. Since I got the car, sometimes the radio will just quit working. Then sometimes when the car hits a bump in the road, the radio will cut off. I tried the on/off switch to no avail.

Then out of frustration, I started pushing the preset station buttons and the radio came back on. I think this is not right. To me it sounds like a short in the radio system. Any suggestions before I replace the whole radio?”

Halderman:

Most radios today use a chip that is the actual receiver and the buttons are momentary switches used to trigger changes such as volume, station, frequency and etc. In older radios, it was common to take the radio out of the vehicle and take it apart and look for a discolored component (usually a capacitor) and re-solder all of the questionable solder joints. Replacing the bad part and /or reheating the old solder joints fixed many of these old radios. However, today, because most of the actual radio is included in one or more electronic chips, this approach does not normally work. It appears that there is a fault with a connection because it is affected by a road shock, but I think it will be hard to find or correct.

What would I do? I would continue to press the station preset button to turn the radio back on. If that fails to help, then replacement is your best bet. Check local wrecking (recycling) yards or look at an aftermarket radio to replace the original factory unit. See https://www.crutchfield.com  for an idea as to what may be available.

“Once in a while the horn will sound on my 1997 Lincoln Continental. I took it to a local shop and they were not able to duplicate the problem so they were not able to diagnosis the fault. I wrote to you about this same problem about two years ago and at the time, your Ford expert suggested that it could be water instrusion getting into the outside keyless entry keypad.  I didn’t do anything then as the problem seemed to go away.  Unfortunately, it has come back so I went to my mechanic to replace the keypad.  Guess what?  Ford doesn’t make this part anymore and he couldn’t locate one.  Please ask your expert, if I could have the keypad disconnected without causing other problems.  My mechanic was fearful disconnecting it would make the interior lock/unlock system to malfunction”.

Halderman:

I asked Dan Avery from the Michigan Institute of Technology about your concern and he wrote back:

“Disconnecting the keypad on this model won’t affect the door lock operation.”

If that does not solve your problem, then I think there could be a bare wire in the steering column that could intermittently touch metal and therefore actuate the horn. Finding and fixing a fault in the steering column may involve a higher expense than you are willing to pay. If the sounding of the horn is a major concern, maybe disconnecting one of the two horns will keep reduce the affect and sound of the random horn operation.

“The engine in my 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue quits for no apparent reason at various times. Your suggestion to check all grounds was completed. Now notice that when this happens the odometer jumps to trip odometer. I even tried driving in trip odometer mode, but this did not help, it just jumps back to regular odometer. Took the car to a good mechanic and he thinks it could be the ignition switch. The only time the mode changes is when the car quits. There is no check engine light on so scanning would not help. I read your column weekly and value your opinion. I might add when this happens I turn the switch off and it restarts just fine.”

Halderman:

I would tend to agree with your technician that the ignition switch is the reason for this condition. The ignition switch is a pattern failure item for your vehicle. It can be checked using a Tech 2 factory scan tool and have the technician check for the proper “power mode” as displayed on the screen. Another possible cause is a bad alternator that has excessive AC voltage output due to failed diode. The output amperage will be normal and therefore will test as working normally, but a technician should test it for AC ripple voltage. If over 0.5 volt AC, the alternator should be replaced. This is tested by using a digital multimeter set to read AC volts. Connect the meter leads to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Start the engine and turn on the headlights and the blower motor to create an electrical load on the battery. This load forces the alternator to produce current and this is when excessive AC ripple voltage can be detected. Look at the meter display. It is normal to read 0.2 to 0.4 volts. If over 0.5 volt, there is a potential problem. See a professional service technician before replacing an alternator based on this one test alone.

“I own a 2000 GMC Jimmy (I bought used a year ago) and on occasion the darn thing does not want to start.  It is getting juice and everything it just does not start.  If you wait 15-20 minutes and try again, it will start.  I have taken it in to repair shop and they worked on it thoroughly not finding the problem.  They suggested that maybe it had to do with the ‘security theft’ system and stated that maybe disabling that system may eliminate the problem.  So my question to you is this something you have heard of happening before and is there an ‘easy’ reasonable cost fix to this problem?  Is it possible that the dealership can disable the alarm security system, which by the way I have no idea how it works or if it does?  Thank you”.

Halderman:

I do not think this problem is the result of the security system. The security warning lamp will be flashing and a scan tool can be used to find out if the system is active or not. It would be almost impossible to delete the security system because it is integral with the engine control and computer system.

There are several things that cause this problem and most will not set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If there was a code set, then normal diagnostic procedures are published showing the steps to follow to find the root cause. In this case, a technician has to check the basics and then perform tests to determine the root cause. You, as the driver, can help by telling the shop or dealer exactly when the problem occurs, including the temperature, if just the first thing in the morning, and any other information you can think of.

One thing that I thought about, and is a pattern failure item on this vehicle, is a weak electric fuel pump. Try this before attempting to start the engine:

• Turn the ignition switch to the ON (run) position, but do not rotate to the start position.
• This action will energize the fuel pump for two seconds.
• Turn the ignition off.
• Now try starting the engine. If it still does not start right away, repeat the above steps several times before attempting to start the engine.

If this action helps and the engine starts sooner, this confirms there is low fuel pressure and that the most likely cause is a weak fuel pump. Of course the fuel pump pressure, volume, and current draw should be checked to verify that the problem is the fuel pump.

Another possible cause is a defect in the ignition system but this is easy to check when it does not start by using a spark tester.

“I have a 2004 Buick Le Sabra that has an ongoing issue with the fan unit for the AC and heater. I have had two different mechanics that I trust look at it and they are stumped. Please help. The fan only operates hit and miss. If it’s not working and you hit a pot hole it starts up, hit another pot hole and it quits. Sometimes I can get it to work by slamming a door or hitting the dash above the glove box, but if it works and you turn off the engine, it won’t work again when you restart the car. The circuit breakers are all okay and the unit has power as it does operate sometimes. I have told the mechanics that when it first starts up it sounds like the fan blades are hitting something as it makes a flapping noise as if the blades are hitting against a wire, but nobody seems to think the problem is in the actual fan housing. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks”.

Halderman:

I checked the wiring diagram for your vehicle and found that the motor is directly controlled by the blower motor control processor which is basically an electronic control module that is used to send pulses of 12-volt electricity to the blower motor to control the speed. This process is called “pulse-width modulation” and the longer the 12 volts is pulsed on to the motor, the faster it turns. The command to the blower motor control module is sent from the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) control module which determines how fast the blower motor should be turning and sends this command to the blower motor controller. Now that we are all confused, I think the problem is a fault with the blower motor itself and not with the control modules because you stated that it makes weird noise when it works. To me this indicates that the squirrel cage fan is loose in the shaft of the motor or something has entered the blower motor housing and is touching the blades of the fan. The first test I would perform is to use a factory scan tool (Tech 2) or a factory-level aftermarket scan tool and try to command the blower motor on and off. This test will confirm whether or not the control modules are capable of providing the power and ground to the motor. If this test shows that the control modules are working then the motor will need to be removed to check for an obstruction or to replace the motors assembly.

“I move to Arizona every winter and return to Michigan in the spring usually to find that the batteries of both of my vehicles are discharged. Can I connect a battery charger to them both or would this cause the batteries to be overcharged? Also, what else should I do to help prevent causing damage to my vehicles when I am gone. I should have written to you last fall.”

Halderman:

Good question. The safest approach is to disconnect the battery from the vehicle and use a “float-type” battery charger. This type of charger not only charges the battery but also keeps it charged without over changing. Do not use a conventional changer as this type will continue to apply voltage to the battery, which can overheat and damage the battery. Purchase a battery charger specifically designed to be used to keep stored batteries charged.

Wheels:

What else can Gale do to keep his stored vehicle ready when he returns in the spring?

Halderman:

The tires can be inflated the maximum pressure as indicated on the sidewall to help keep the tires from flat spotting when in storage. Keep the vehicle in a secure dry location and do not store dog or cat food around the vehicle. The pet food can attract animals and then they are more likely to find a home under the hood or even in the air ducts of the vehicle over the winter.

It is also recommended that the engine oil be changed before storing the vehicle so that the oil additives are fresh to absorb moisture in the engine. If storing the vehicle for longer than six months, I also suggest that it be jacked up and placed on safety stands to keep the weight of the vehicle off the tires.

Do not forget to restore the tire inflation pressure to normal when returning the vehicle to daily service in the spring. The specified tire inflation pressure is shown on a decal or placard on the driver’s door or door jam.

“I have a situation where I am storing my 2012 Buick Lacrosse Touring edition. It was not driven for the last year; however; it was warmed-up weekly. My problem is that at the last warm up the car battery was too low to turn the engine over.  I am concerned that it was losing computer programming if a battery cable one or both was disconnected so that a battery changer can be used with both cables connected. My question is what are the Pros and Cons of charging a car battery in the car with the positive, negative or both cables connected? Thanks for your answer look forward to reading your reply in Wheels”.

Halderman:

First, I do not suggest that a vehicle be stored without being properly prepared.  If being stored, it should be properly prepared for storage including filling the gas tank and using a gasoline stabilizer. When the battery voltage dropped, the memory was likely lost at the same time. Not as bad a situation, but still all of the power windows and seats may have to be reset. I use a “float-type charger” to keep the battery charged without overcharging it when the vehicle is being stored. The most commonly used brand is called a “Battery Tender” but there are many others out there and costs are $50 to $100). I do not recommend any other type of charger and these can be used with the battery in the vehicle and connected.

“On my way out of the mall, a young man asked if I would help him start his truck. So I hooked the cables up and within 5 minutes he said I needed to rev the engine as the car would start faster if I did that. Still, I thought I would ask you if that made a difference”.

Halderman:

He is right. A typical alternator only charges about 20 amps at idle but can charge over 100 amps when the engine is at 2,500 RPM. Many vehicles can’t start when the temperatures are low due to several causes including:

1. The engine oil is thicker when cold making the starter require more electrical currents for the battery to crank the engine
2. The low temperatures also slow the chemical reaction inside the battery so it unable to produce the amount of current it could at warmer temperatures.
3. The capacity of a battery is affected by age so an older battery will not be able to supply what it once was able to when it was new.

To help prevent the need for jump starting, it is wise to have the battery tested every year or replaced about every 3-5 years. There are also small batteries that can be used to jump start another vehicle that are light weight and can be kept in the trunk if needed.

“I have a question for you. Would it hurt or be a disadvantage to use a 1,000 CCA- rated battery in a vehicle equipped with a four-cylinder engine? The technician at the shop told me that the standard battery for my 2015 Chevrolet Cruze is 590 CCA. I was told to take the cubic inch displacement of the engine and double it to arrive at the suggested CCA rating of a battery. However, with just a 2.0-liter (122 cu. In.) engine, this calculation does not seem to apply.

The temperatures here in south Florida are high and I don’t think I need a large battery capacity to start my car even in the winter. The technician also said that the heat causes the battery to lose capacity and by installing a high capacity battery will result in a longer battery life. I don’t want to have a large capacity battery hurting my car. What is your suggestion?”

Halderman:

If you can afford the larger capacity battery in the size that fits your car, I would recommend that you take the advice of the technician to use a battery that is more than you need. The technician was also correct that heat is harmful to batteries and that is why batteries, when placed under the hood, usually have an insulated pad or cover to help keep engine heat from for the battery. The larger capacity battery will not harm your car as the starter and all of the electrical accessories use just what is needed and it does not result in an increased current flow from the battery. However, the life of the battery may improve and should be serviceable for a longer period of time compared to the same size battery, but with a lower capacity.

“The 60-month battery in my 2000 Olds is 4 years and 7 months old.  I had it and the vehicle’s charging system checked.  The system is fine but the battery tested at 458 cold cranking amps instead of the 550 CCA it is supposed to have.  The technician advised me to remove the battery and put a charger on it overnight.  Since the battery is not holding a full charge from the vehicle’s charging system, why would charging it out of the car help?  Can I leave the battery in the car to do the charging?”

Halderman:

The fact that your battery has lost some of its capacity is perfectly normal.  In fact, I am surprised that the battery had as high a percentage of capacity as it did after four years.  I would recommend not doing anything but keep checking the battery regularly for signs of weakness.  These signs include:

• Slower than normal cranking speed
• Dimmer than normal headlights at idle
• Using battery water in one or more cells
• Corrosion on battery cables or terminals

The service technician is correct by saying it is safer to charge the battery out of the vehicle because the higher voltage from the charger could affect some computer circuits.  You can charge a battery with it still in the vehicle.  Again, your battery is normal and should provide you with a year or more of service.  The normal life of a battery is generally considered to be 4 to  7 years.  Just remember that batteries do wear out and your battery is old in battery years, so replacing it soon I think, would be wise.

“I am thinking of buying a new car but I am skeptical of stop- start technology. Can it be turned off?”

Halderman:

Sometimes. Some vehicles equipped with a stop-start system can be turned off using a button on the dash or center stack.  Stop-start systems are designed to increase fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions. Fuel economy and the reduction of CO₂ emissions are estimated to be 5 to 10 percent, depending on the vehicle and how it is being operated. With stop-start mechanism, the engine is stopped when the vehicle is stopped at traffic signals or in stop and go traffic conditions to reduce the fuel consumption. Therefore, whether or not the feature can be turned off depends on if the systems is needed to meet the mandated fuel economy and/or emission standards. If it can meet the standards without being actuated, it can be turned off. However, the button usually has to be pushed every time the vehicle is started as it often defaults to on.

Various vehicle manufacturers refer to stop-start systems using different terms including:

• Auto Stop
• Stop-Start
• Idle-Stop
• Smart Stop
• Intelligent Stop and Go
• Auto Start/Stop
• Engine Stop-Start (ESS)
• Start-Stop

“Jim, a friend of mine is having a problem with his Mazda MPV. Any suggestions?

I have a gremlin in the Mazda MPV. It starts fine, then I go somewhere it doesn’t start and nothing works. However, if it is jump started, it starts right up. I had the battery and alternator tested and they tested fine. The connection to the starter is tight. For the mechanic, it starts right up repeatedly. I take it to my daughter’s house and it won’t start again”.

Halderman:

Two things come to mind. First, the battery can test okay and still be the cause. If it is three years old or older, I think it would be wise to replace it as the first step. If that does not do it, then it can be the ignition switch or main relay. The main relay powers everything so this is my best guess. Still a guess until a professional can check it out. Good luck and let me know what you find.

Update:

Gary wrote back and said he took it to a professional who was able to fix the problem.

“Jim, my friend writes that the battery was not the problem but the electronic ignition was. The Mazda MPV apparently has a theft deterrent device attached to the battery. It was not properly connected. The technician cleaned the connection and properly fastened it. The problem has since disappeared”.

“I am seeing a new type of auto battery on shelves now with the AGM designation. I know what an AGM battery is but, are they worth the extra cost?  I’m seeing AGM batteries for about $20 to $25 more than a standard lead acid battery? Is the AGM in actual use better to use in vehicles?”

Halderman:

I think they are worth it. They last 7 to 10 years compared to 3 to 5 years for a standard battery. They need a special charger that limits the charging voltage to about 14.5 volts because the higher voltage of a conventional charger can be 16 volts or higher. I purchase the Optima red top myself.

The acid used in an absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery is totally absorbed into the separator between the lead plates, making the battery leak proof and spill proof.

The battery is assembled by compressing the cell about 20%, then inserting it into the container. The compressed cell helps reduce damage caused by vibration and helps keep the acid tightly against the plates. The sealed maintenance-free design uses a pressure release valve in each cell. Unlike conventional batteries that use a liquid electrolyte, called flooded cell batteries, most

of the hydrogen and oxygen given off during charging remains inside the battery. The separator or mat that is placed between the plates is only 90% to 95% saturated with electrolyte, thereby allowing a portion of the mat to be filled with gas. The gas spaces provide channels to allow the hydrogen and oxygen gases to recombine rapidly and safely. Because the acid is totally absorbed into the glass mat separator,

an AGM battery can be mounted in any direction. Absorbed glass mat batteries are used as standard equipment in some vehicles, such as the Chevrolet Corvette and in most Toyota hybrid electric vehicles, as their auxiliary (12 volt) battery used to power the lights and accessories.

“My dash volt gauge on my 2004 Chevrolet is all screwed up. It now points way off scale.

I can go into the cluster, and push the pointer back to zero but the problem just reappears. What is going on with this? How do I fix that problem?”

Sol writes by e-mail:

“We have a 2004 Chevy Impala. When it rains the speedometer goes crazy. Some time it says you’re going faster than actual speed and sometimes it says you’re going slower than you are. Can you tell me what might be causing this problem and what I can do to fix this?”

Halderman:

While there are several possible reasons why these issues can occur, what I found out is that faults in the dash instruments seems to be a common concern and usually requires replacement of the entire instrument panel cluster (IPC) assembly. However, before having the entire assembly replaced, there are some tests that a service technician can perform that may help either to confirm that the assembly needs to be replaced or is caused by another problem. First have a technician check the charging system for excessive AC ripple voltage. The diodes inside the alternator change alternating current (AC) voltage into direct current (DC) voltage. If one of the diodes is defective, an excessive amount of AC voltage can be sent to the battery and all of the electrical components in the vehicle. This AC can cause weird problems and even some engine operating problems. The maximum amount of AC should be 0.5 volt measured at the battery or at the output terminal of the alternator. If the AC voltage is above 0.5 volts a replacement alternator may solve the problem. Another possible reason for wierd dash instrument operation is a poor electrical connector either at the connector or inside the IPC. An experienced service technician can check to see if this is a possible solution and in some cases the solder joints can be “reflowed” solving many of these issues.

“What is it about fuel gauges?  It seems that with my previous and current vehicles that the gauge stays on full or above half for a long time, and then it drops rapidly to empty.  Why is this happening?  Is the fuel gauge really that inaccurate?”

Halderman:

Great question.  I too have noticed this with almost every vehicle.  I recall a conversation I had with an engineer who worked for a domestic luxury brand manufacturer.  His job was to calibrate the fuel gauge for a new display that showed gallons remaining instead of a needle.  He told me that he spent many hours being sure that the fuel sender unit accurately measured the fuel remaining in the tank.  When the tank was full, the display showed the number of gallons in the tank.  If I recall, the number was 19 gallons.  Then when one gallon was used (in about 15 miles), the display changed to 18 gallons.  When the tank was empty, the display read zero.

As soon as the vehicle came out customer complaints started to flow in regarding two concerns:

1. Poor fuel economy
2. Customers running out of fuel

Apparently, the general public does not like to see a very accurate fuel gauge because they are used to the older, less accurate gauges and expect the same readings.  As a result of the complaints, the engineer recalibrated the fuel gauge to be less accurate by doing the following:

1. Instead of displaying each gallon, the display shows full until over 3 gallons are used.  This change stopped all of the poor fuel economy complaints.

2. Instead of running out of fuel when the fuel gauge read zero gallons, the display is “recalibrated” to show zero gallons when there are still 3 gallons remaining.

As a result of these changes, the fuel gauge now reads similar to all others I have seen.

• The gauge remains on “FULL” for many miles.
• It slowly drops to half
• After it reaches half, the gauge seems to drop fast because it has to reach the empty mark way before the  tank is actually empty
• The “low fuel” warning message or light comes on when there is still enough fuel to locate a station (about 40-50 miles but I have not tested this range for fear of running out of fuel).

Therefore Beth, you are right – the fuel gauges are designed to show what the customer expects to see rather than what is actually being measured.

I have received several letters and e-mails from readers about a previous column about the location of the gas fill door and bluish headlights.
Alyssa and several others said the icon (pictograph) that is on the dash shows where the location is by looking at where the nozzle on the figure is pointing. Tom T. and others wrote that they felt that the bright blue lights were a safety issue to others as they said that these bright lights are blinding to on-coming drivers.

Halderman:

Thanks to everyone who wrote. Regarding the gas icon on the dash that shows an image of a gas pump. Many think that the where the nozzle points is where the gas filler door is located. The nozzle on the gas pump icon is pointing toward the left side of the vehicle and this is where most of the filler doors are located. However, the icon is a standardized image used throughout the world to indicate the gas gauge and is therefore the same for all vehicles regardless of the location of the filler door. As a result, this seems to work for many vehicles (the direction that the nozzle is pointing) but not for all vehicles. Many vehicle manufacturers add an arrow under the icon pointing to the side where the fuel door is located.

Regarding the bright bluish headlights, I too have been blinded by some vehicles that have blue headlights. However, when they pass me, I have noticed that most are older vehicles that were not equipped with HID (xenon) headlights. In these cases, I think what I saw was a vehicle that had aftermarket high wattage bulbs installed rather than the factory HID headlights. Many of these aftermarket light bulbs, which are available on the Internet, are rated at 80 watts instead of the standard 55 watts for normal headlights. As a result, these lights do produce a much brighter light that can be blinding to on-coming drivers. By the way the extra current required for these brighter lights does tend to melt wiring, connectors, and damage the dimmer switch due to the increased current required. Factory HID headlights, while bluish, are not as bright as these aftermarket bulbs. Most vehicles equipped with HID headlights also are equipped with self-leveling headlights so that the lights will not shine higher than normal if the vehicle is loaded, causing the front of the vehicle to be higher than normal.

“If I start with a full tank and you drive until it reads half I get almost 30 miles to the gallon. However, when the fuel level is low, I get only about 20 miles to gallon (MPG). What can cause my car to get good fuel economy when the tank is full and much lower when the fuel in low? What could be wrong with my car?

Halderman:

I do not believe that your vehicle is getting lower fuel economy when the level of the fuel tank is higher but rather, it is a matter of how the fuel gauge is designed to work.

The industry method for fuel gauges is to keep the gauge reading high for a long period of time (they tried being very accurate and got all kinds of “poor fuel economy” complaints). Then empty has to be a lot higher (about 3+ gallons from empty) to keep owners from running out of fuel. Therefore, the fuel level will drop a LOT faster from half to empty than from full to half. Is this your concern?

Wheels:

“Yes, I’d say that about covers it.  Just curious as to WHY this was happening.  THANKS MUCH!”

“I purchased an in the cabin air filter for my 2004 Avalanche yesterday.  I took the cover off that goes over the fan and etc. under the dash on the passenger side.  Next I got a flashlight and started looking for the clip which must be released to open a long plastic door so the old filter can be taken out and the new one installed.  The only problem is I see no screws or a clip to release the door.  As best I can tell, I do not have a door to open and may not have an inside the cabin air filter?  I guess I am confused since the parts book at the auto parts store shows I have such an air filter.”

Halderman: 

This is a great question because I found many places where the filter is sold, including part numbers and prices on the Internet.  I checked service information and did not find any mention of where it is located.  However, I did discover a technical service bulletin (TSB) that mentioned that starting in 2003, due to the design of the instrument panel, a cabin air filter is no longer an option.  The term used by General Motors Corp. for this filter is “passenger compartment air filter.”  Therefore, even though you purchased a cabin air filter listed for your truck, it cannot be used because your vehicle does not have a filter for the cabin air.

When a cabin air filter is replaced depends on how dusty or dirty the driving conditions.  If the vehicle is being driven on dirt roads, replacing the filter every year may be wise.  For normal driving conditions, most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every two or three years.  For best results, use the style that was used in the vehicle when new.  For example, many vehicle manufacturers use a filter that has activated charcoal on the filter to trap odors and fumes.  Some less expensive replacement filters do not have this feature.  The filter that has charcoal is not cheap and goes for $30 to $50.

“I’m normally on the “reading end” of the questions, but I have a concern of my own this week. The A/C failed to cool on my wife’s 2000 Chevrolet Prism.  I took it to a shop where I was informed that the low pressure line had a hole in it. I paid $614 to have the issue resolved. A week later, the A/C failed to work again. The technician said that an O ring had “failed”. Sounded unlikely, but they recharged the refrigerant and fixed the culprit O ring. Three weeks later, the compressor failed. I was concerned that the compressor had been run without refrigerant and the associated lubricant which then caused it to seize. The mechanic assured me that this was not the case with some now forgotten details, and said that when one thing goes another often accompanies it. His explanation made sense, but I took it to a Chevy dealership to get the compressor fixed as I was suspicious of their workmanship. I was happy with the dealership’s work, and they stated that they couldn’t find anything of concern with the previous shops’ repairs. So, $734 later, the A/C was working like a champ.

This morning the A/C was again not blowing cool air. The same dealership took the car in and discovered via a dye test that the refrigerant is leaking out from at least two different areas. It appears that the part from the first shop received faulty parts. While this was not likely intentional, I’m out a lot of money with an A/C system that’s still leaking like a sieve. I’m wondering if the “failure” of the O ring and slow leak of refrigerant caused the original compressor to fail. Please offer your perspective.” 

Halderman:

The short answer is that the system will shut off if the refrigerant is lost to help protect the compressor. The vehicle is 10 years old and age and mileage do combine to cause wear to the compressor. The leaks may be the result of moisture in the system. I did not see where the shop or dealer replaced the dryer, which is designed to remove any moisture from the system. I asked Tom Birch, an air conditioning expert and author of an air conditioning textbook for his advice.

Tom responded:

“Yes, the compressor damage could have been caused by operating with low or no refrigerant. Many vehicles have low pressure shut-off or warning systems to prevent this. And yes, the O-ring failure should not have occurred this soon after a repair, and I suspect that the suction line replacement used inferior parts. This line usually lasts many years unless some outside source has caused damage. It is also interesting that the repair of these two, relatively low-cost parts cost nearly as much as the compressor replacement, one of the more expensive A/C system parts”.

“I am having two problems with my wife’s 2009 Chevy Malibu that has approximately 43,000 miles on it.  I have made certain to change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles with 5W/30 oil and filter for her car.  I made sure to rotate the tires every 5,000 miles, front end alignment and all, twice a year.  In other words everything the book says to do. The first problem is on the AC controls.  We will turn the AC on and within a few minutes it flips over to outside air.  We have to hold the AC button for about 5 minutes before it stay in AC.  Even doing this, it still flips back to outside air, and then back to AC.  Only when the car has been on and driving for 20 minutes or longer will it stay on AC.”

Halderman: 

This sounds as if the AC system is low on charge.  Once the temperature increases, the pressure in the system increases enough for the low pressure switch to close, thereby allowing the compressor to work. The A/C system uses a low pressure switch that will only allow the compressor to operate when there is enough refrigerant in the system to move the oil through the system. Refrigerant oil (R134a system) does not mix with the refrigerant but instead uses the movement of the refrigerant through the system to lubricate the compressor.

“I hope you can give me a hint as to what is wrong with my 2007 Buick LeSabre.  Anytime I try to operate the heater, the air-conditioning compressor runs no matter what settings I use on the climate control system.  A small amount of slightly warm air comes out of one of the under-dash outlets, and very cold air comes from the other.  The passenger’s control has no effect whatsoever.  I disconnected the air-conditioning compressor, which results in very little change.  Engine temperature is normal.  I have heard that an electronic module controls this function.  If this is true, I would like to know which one and where it is located.”

Halderman:

From your description, I think that the blend door motor is no longer working.  The door is stuck in one position.  The control head could be the problem as well causing the door not being commanded to move.  If it is an auto climate control, hooking a scan tool should show some codes or some data on the HVAC system.  The air conditioning compressor typically runs all the time anyway if it is auto climate.  When very cold outside, a sensor will keep the compressor from running until the engine gets to a certain temperature.  If the air does not come out the right vents, then my guess would be a control head problem.  Because this diagnosis and repair is complex, I suggest that you ask a professional service technician to check this for you to help avoid replacing unnecessary parts.

“I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline.  The A/C seemed not quite cool enough for me to believe it was performing normally, and I had them check it, as I have the 8-year warranty.  They drained it and refilled it, measuring the drained amount as being 3 ounces low (out of a total fill of 23 ounces, or a drop of about 13%).  Their vent-temperature measurement before they filled it was 44 degree F.  When they refilled it, they added dye to find the leak, telling me to return in 500 miles, which I did.  However, they could not find any leakage at any fittings after those miles, measuring the vent temperature as 40 degree F.  They said it is not uncommon to see a car of 3-5 years old that is slightly low like that and in need of a top-off charge.  This sounds demented to me, as the refrigerant has to be going somewhere.  It seems to me that they are trying anything they can to get out of performing the proper repair.  What shall I do?”

Halderman:

I do not think you need to do anything at this time. It is possible to lose some refrigerant through microscopic holes in the rubber hoses or at the evaporator inside the vehicle where you cannot see. I think the shop did a great job. Remember that the air conditioning system also works in cold weather to dehumidify the air before it is sent to the windshield for defrost. A proper operating air conditioning system is important for all seasons of year, not just in the summer.

“Are there any 2016 sedans that have just plain air vents that bring in fresh air into the car without treating and regulating the air thru heating or air conditioning systems? We enjoyed the good old days of opening air vent to fresh air at outside temperature without opening the windows”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. All vehicles allow fresh air in to the passenger compartment without the air conditioning operating. However, I am not aware of any vehicle that offers a straight path for outside air to flow into the passenger compartment without flowing through the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system.  The mode to allow fresh air only to enter the passenger compartment is often referred to as economy or simply “ECON”. The temperature can be controlled using the temperature lever and this would allow some of the air to pass through the heater core on the way to the inside. The position where the air enters the vehicle is also adjustable so it can be directed to the floor, dash or the defroster vents and often in combination of two or all three positions.  If air conditioning is wanted for cooling, then a button with a “snowflake” icon or the letters “AC” on it needs to be depressed to cause the A/C compressor to be engaged. The air entering the cabin enters at the base of the windshield and first travels through a cabin filter where pollen and dirt are removed. The air then flows though the ducts to the inside.  Ask a knowledgeable salesperson to explain how this is achieved on the vehicle you are considering purchasing.

“In a previous column, you mentioned how to dispose of used coolant but did not mention that it can harm pets if they swallow it. Is this an issue that you can address? Thanks.”

Halderman:

All antifreeze used in vehicles from the factory is ethylene glycol with about 3% additives.  This is mixed with about half de-mineralized water to create the coolant. You are correct that ethylene glycol is sweet tasting and animals, including dogs and cats, tend to want to drink it if left out in the open. Some antifreezes use propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol, which is not sweet tasting and is less harmful to animals if ingested. However, this type of coolant does not mix well with ethylene glycol and therefore the entire system has to be flushed completely before using. Also, some vehicle manufacturers do not recommend the use of propylene glycol coolant. Many states now require that all antifreeze/coolant have an agent added to make it bitter tasting so that animals will not drink it. As more states adopt this ruling, most antifreeze manufacturers are now adding this bitter ingredient to all their antifreeze so that it can be sold in all states. However, it is wise to dispose of coolant correctly and not leave it in an open container where pets and animals can get access.

“I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with 4 liter, 6 cylinder, inline engine.  I’m trying to change the two top hoses that go into the firewall to the heater core.  One is 5/8 inch.  No problem. Part stores all carry this size.  The other one is 11/16 inch.  I’ve checked several different parts stores and the local Chrysler dealer.  No one carries.  Can I use a 3/4inch or is there another solution?

Thank you”

Halderman:

To make sure that I was giving you the correct information, I asked Tom Freels the Chrysler Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College for help.

Here is his response:

“I don’t see a problem with using the ¾ inch hose if that is all that he can find in bulk. However, both of the heater hoses are available from Chrysler and some local dealers even stock it so it should only be a day’s wait for one if it had to be ordered.

55036924AD- return hose    list price 15.35

55037326AC -supply hose   list price 35.75

These are relatively affordable and are the original equipment manufacturers (OEM) part that will have all of the bends formed in them and fit like new. I’m not sure why a dealer told him that they couldn’t get them unless they only looked at getting an 11/16 inch hose and didn’t look for the part numbers.”

Thanks Tom. I think that using the original equipment hose is more expensive, it will be correct for this vehicle. Besides using the OEM parts this will make it look like it did when it came off the assembly line. Sometimes owners create some problems by using replacement parts that are not exactly like the factory hoses. For example, I have seen where a heater hose was replaced and as short a section as possible was used whereas the original hose was longer and routed so that there was some slack in the hose. This slack or extra length is done on purpose for two reasons:

1. The heater hose is attached to the engine at one end and the engine is mounted to the body or frame using rubber mounts. There needs to be some extra length to allow for the movement of the engine.
2. The extra length is also needed to help reduce engine vibrations from being transmitted to the heater core which cause heater core failure.

Due to the above, I usually recommend that stock replacement parts be used, or in the case of hoses, use replacement hoses that are cut to the same length as the original hose and routed in the same way.

“I understand that there is a new synthetic anti-freeze.  What can you tell me about using this product? Why would it be advertised as new?  Is there a new synthetic type?  Are there any advantages to using the “new” product?”

Halderman:

It is called marketing. Ethylene glycol is a synthetic so there is nothing new. Anti-freeze coolant is a mixture of ethylene glycol (about 47%) and de-mineralized water (50%) and 3% additives.. Use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. The types of coolants (antifreeze and water) include:

• Inorganic additive technology (IAT) coolants are conventional coolants that have been used for over 50 years. The color of an IAT coolant is green. Phosphates in these coolants can cause deposit formation if used with hard water (i.e., water with high mineral content). The use of IAT coolants in new vehicles was phased out in the mid-1990s.

• Organic acid technology (OAT) coolants contain ethylene glycol, but do not contain silicates or phosphates. The color of this type of coolant is usually orange. DEXCOOL, developed by Havoline, is just one brand of OAT coolant, which has been used in General Motors vehicles since 1996

• Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) is a newer variation of OAT. An HOAT coolant is similar to the OAT- type antifreeze as it uses organic acid salts (carboxylates) that are not abrasive to water pumps. HOAT coolants can be green, orange, yellow, gold, pink, red, or blue.
• Universal coolants are usually HOAT coolants with extended life and are low-silicate and phosphate-free. They can be used in many vehicles, but cannot meet the needs of engines requiring a silicate-free formulation.
• Premixed coolant is a coolant that is mixed with the proper percentage of water and is ready for use. The water is demineralized and therefore does not include chlorine and other possible chemicals that could cause damage to the cooling system. Toyota and Honda are two vehicle manufacturers that specify the use of premixed coolant only.

“In June or July, I took my wife’s 2002 Jeep to a mechanic to have Freon added to the air conditioner. He also checked out why the jeep when parking or when the it was almost not moving such as making a 90 degree turn to enter our garage, the power steering seemed to give out.

He said that the steering problem was in the gear box and that sometimes just a simple fluid flush would make a difference and stated that the radiator cooling fan also uses the same fluid as the gearbox.

After he added Freon and flushed the steering, he said the steering did not improve and it was safe to drive the car the way it was but if I wanted it repaired a new gear box would be about $500.00.

I picked up the car at which time I noticed with the hood closed the motor sounded like it was racing even though the RPMs on the tack were the same. I said “This sure sounds very noisy and his reply was he noticed it as well and we determined that the noise occurred once the air kicked in so it must be the radiator fan.”

We continued to drive the car putting off taking it for 2nd opinion to another mechanic as I work during the day. However, yesterday I took it to a Chrysler dealer and they tell me that it needs a cooling fan assembly at a tune of $1,559 plus tax.

Is it possible to just put a regular electric fan on it, and if so, how much difficulty would there be since they are a lot cheaper?

If I get one from a salvage yard and find a mechanic to install it, is this likely to last the life of the car or are these hydraulic fans just problematic?”

Halderman:

I asked Tom Freels the Chrysler Mopar College Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College for his opinion and here is what he wrote:

“I think that the original problem may have always been the radiator fan. The Grand Cherokee that the customer owns has the hydraulic fan that shares the same fluid as the pump and steering gear. The original problem sounds likely more of a power steering fluid level issue with no assist at idle.  I can’t see the steering gear causing a problem that is only evident at idle or parked.  The fan likely made noise because it was faulty or possibly became faulty with a fluid starvation issue. There is no mention of a fluid leak though.   They would have to find a shop willing to put an electric fan on and the problem with that is the check engine light will be on constantly for the circuit fault with the original fan. It is hydraulically driven, but electronically controlled by the engine computer.”

Thanks Tom. Therefore, it seems that the best and most cost efficient approach is to find a used hydraulic fan assembly at a recycling (wrecking) yard and have the unit replaced with the same unit that came from the factory.

“I have a 2005 Buick Lacrosse. I bought in 2010. It had 20,000 miles. It has 34000 now. In June of 2011,  I changed the anti-freeze. I used Prestone flush and fill. I put a tee in the top hose coming out of water pump. I connected the water hose to it and flushed the system. I put a new lower radiator hose on and filled it with the Prestone extended life anti-freeze.

The heater worked well last winter, but now it just blows luke warm air.  Every once in a while it does blow hot air, not often. I put in a new thermostat a few weeks ago, but it didn’t help. I think I should put DEXCOOL in it.

What do you think? I hope you can help. Thanks”

Halderman:

I wonder why you replaced the coolant with just 34,000 miles on a two-year old vehicle? As many know who read this column, I recommend that technicians and vehicle owners follow what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. In this case, Buick (General Motors) recommends that the coolant be replaced at 100,000 miles and that DEXCOOL be used.

Almost all coolants are ethylene glycol with about 3% additives. It is the additives (the 3%) that change the coolant. There are three types of coolant:

1. IAT-Inorganic Additive Technology- This is the old green anti-freeze.
2. OAT-Organic Acid Technology (DEXCOOL is one brand of OAT)
3. HOAT– Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (can be many colors depending on the additive package) Most “long life” antifreezes are HOAT type.

The water used with the antifreeze is very important too and some vehicle manufacturers, such as Honda and Toyota, recommend the use of premixed coolant only. By the way, coolant is 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Some tap water is high in mineral and chlorine making it unsuitable for use in coolant.

I think your problem is caused by air trapped in the system. Follow the recommended procedures when refilling the coolant, such as opening a bleeder valve, to help keep air from being trapped in the system.

“My 2004 Chevrolet Venture van is nearing 100,000 miles. I went to the dealer to find out if there is a preventative maintenance procedure to keep the car in good running condition. Among the suggestions was a “decarbonizing” the combustion chambers. What is this procedure? The car runs fine except for a slight roughness at idle. Any other suggestions? Thanks”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I would tend to agree that a de-carbonization would help but not just the combustion chamber. Most machines (Motorvac is one brand name) that are used for this procedure send a cleaning solution through the fuel rail (part of the fuel system that supplies fuel to the injectors).  It does not use the chemical through the fuel tank where it could cause problems with the fuel pump inside the tank. The cleaning solution contains gasoline and the engine is run for a while with the cleaner flowing through the fuel rail and the injectors. As a result, this cleans the fuel injectors as well as the intake tract and the backside of the intake valve where deposits form.  Part of the machine also uses a sprayer attachment that forces some of the cleaner through the throttle body where it cleans the throttle plate, which is another place where deposits form. To me, this is a very cost effective way to improve vehicle performance and should improve the idle quality and make the engine operate smoother unless there is another fault with the engine or injection system.

“My wife’s 1997 Chevrolet Blazer has several problems that my local mechanic can’t seem to correct. The “Check Engine” light is on and I can smell gasoline. When we got the truck back from the mechanic, the check engine light was off but it came back on after a couple of days. Any ideas as to what could be wrong?”

Halderman:

The gas smell and the “check Engine” light may be related. The first step is to try to determine where the gas smell is coming from. For example, a loose gas cap could be the cause of the gas smell, and the check engine light because the computer monitors the pressure in the fuel system to detect any possible leaks. Leaking gasoline fumes are considered to be “emissions” and are controlled and the fuel system checked is almost every time the engine is started.  If the “Check Engine” light is on, there will be a stored diagnostic trouble code. This can be read by an inexpensive “code reader” but if there is a fault in the evaporative emission system, then a smoke machine will likely be needed to find the source of the leaking gas fumes.

Ask around and look for a shop that has the needed diagnostic tools and skills to tackle this repair.

“I bought a 2007 Dodge Nitro last August. I love these cars and have wanted one for a long time.  My questions are, when I fill my gas tank up, and the pump clicks when it’s full, the gas won’t stop, it spews out and runs down the car. I wipe it off quickly because I know it’s bad for the paint so I have quit filling it up all the way. My mechanic said he doesn’t know what the problem is and said I would have to take it to a dealer. I hope it can be fixed. Shouldn’t there be something inside the tank that would stop the over flow? Question 2 is, when I start it, maybe once out of 10-12 times when I turn the key and let go, the engine still turns over for about 2 seconds. Does this mean my starter might be going out? All the other times it starts right up. Thank you very much for any help you can give me”.

Halderman:

Regarding you first question, there is likely a fault in the evaporative emission control system (EVAP), such as a stuck closed vent solenoid. The dealer or another shop should be able to address this issue.

Your second concern about the engine cranking after the key is released, is normal operation. Your vehicle, like most new vehicles, uses a computer-controlled starter. All you have to do is turn to the start position and let go of the key, or push a button on some vehicles. The computer will crank the engine and then stop cranking when the engine starts. The engine computer monitors the engine speed and when the engine speed exceeds 400 revolutions per minute (RPM), the computer knows that the engine has started and stops the operation of the cranking motor.

“I ran out of gas in my 2005 Pontiac Montana, added gas, but had a lot of difficulty in re-starting it.  What is the best procedure to bleed off the air lock?  In the old days with a mechanical fuel pump and float valve in the carb, all you had to do was crank long enough, and have the choke set correctly.  With modern electric fuel pumps and fuel injectors, the pump pressure is not enough to push thru the injectors.  I suppose that cranking long enough would eventually push the air thru the injectors and the engine.  But, is there a better way?”

Halderman:

Yes, there is a better way. The electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank is controlled by a relay which is controlled by the engine computer. To help save the starter motor and the battery, perform the following:

1. Turn the ignition key to the “on” position (do not crank the engine).
2. The fuel pump will operate for two seconds and then stop.
3. Turn the key off for at least ten seconds and then back to the on position.
4. The fuel pump will operate for another two seconds.
5. Try cranking the engine to see if it starts. If not, repeat the key procedure.
6. If the engine still will not start after repeatedly operating the fuel pump, ask a professional service technician to look at possible reasons.

“My 1995 Cougar, 4.6 V-8 has factory dual exhausts and the system is perfect because the car only has 19,000 miles and it is a Florida car. From the catalytic converters, the exhaust goes into one resonator then after the rear wheels it splits into two again with dual mufflers and two tail pipes. Car is way too quiet for me and could use some added pep, so I am wondering is there really any added power or performance if I put a complete new dual exhaust from the converters back? I was also thinking of just replacing the resonator with straight pipe and new high-performance muffler on the rear which would cost me $200 less. Does relieving backpressure help horsepower? Also, would the check engine light come on? Would adding a high performance air filter really help performance or is it just “for the sound” and marketing for our money? Thanks!”

Halderman:

Any engine is basically an air pump and the more air that can flow into and out of the engine, the more power it can produce. However, the stock exhaust system was designed to be quiet because most buyers do want a quiet vehicle. While installing a high-performance exhaust system will increase power, this added power will be felt mostly at high engine speeds. Of course, the exhaust sound will increase and this is mostly why many install a high-performance exhaust. If the new system is behind the catalytic converter, there should not be legal or engine performance issues regarding a check engine light.

The biggest gains in power will be achieved by installing a cold air induction (CAI) system. This system, which is offered by many manufacturers, replaces the original air filter assembly with one that draws air from the outside. This increases engine power because the cooler the air, the more dense it is and this denser air increases power about 1percent for every 10 degrees drop in temperature. For example, on a 90 degree day, the under hood temperature may be 150 degrees. If the factory stock air cleaner assembly is drawing air from the under the hood, then there is a 60 degree difference. Installing a cold air intake system in this case can result in about a 6 percent increase in power. The disadvantage is increased engine noise during acceleration but this might be what you are wanting anyway. Another disadvantage is that water may be able to get into the engine if driven on water, which may not be blocked from entering the engine like the factory air cleaner housing is designed to handle.

“In June or July, I took my wife’s 2002 Jeep to a mechanic to have Freon added to the air conditioner. He also checked out why the jeep when parking or when the it was almost not moving such as making a 90 degree turn to enter our garage, the power steering seemed to give out.

He said that the steering problem was in the gear box and that sometimes just a simple fluid flush would make a difference and stated that the radiator cooling fan also uses the same fluid as the gearbox.

After he added Freon and flushed the steering, he said the steering did not improve and it was safe to drive the car the way it was but if I wanted it repaired a new gear box would be about $500.00.

I picked up the car at which time I noticed with the hood closed the motor sounded like it was racing even though the RPMs on the tack were the same. I said “This sure sounds very noisy and his reply was he noticed it as well and we determined that the noise occurred once the air kicked in so it must be the radiator fan.”

We continued to drive the car putting off taking it for 2nd opinion to another mechanic as I work during the day. However, yesterday I took it to a Chrysler dealer and they tell me that it needs a cooling fan assembly at a tune of $1,559 plus tax.

Is it possible to just put a regular electric fan on it, and if so, how much difficulty would there be since they are a lot cheaper?

If I get one from a salvage yard and find a mechanic to install it, is this likely to last the life of the car or are these hydraulic fans just problematic?”

Halderman:

I asked Tom Freels the Chrysler Mopar College Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College for his opinion and here is what he wrote:

“I think that the original problem may have always been the radiator fan. The Grand Cherokee that the customer owns has the hydraulic fan that shares the same fluid as the pump and steering gear. The original problem sounds likely more of a power steering fluid level issue with no assist at idle.  I can’t see the steering gear causing a problem that is only evident at idle or parked.  The fan likely made noise because it was faulty or possibly became faulty with a fluid starvation issue. There is no mention of a fluid leak though.   They would have to find a shop willing to put an electric fan on and the problem with that is the check engine light will be on constantly for the circuit fault with the original fan. It is hydraulically driven, but electronically controlled by the engine computer.”

Thanks Tom. Therefore, it seems that the best and most cost efficient approach is to find a used hydraulic fan assembly at a recycling (wrecking) yard and have the unit replaced with the same unit that came from the factory.

“I have A 2009 Ford Crown Victoria and the check gas cap light on the dash came on.  I stopped and checked the cap and it looked fine to me. I even added more gas. Still the check gas cap light remained on.  This morning after sitting all night in the garage, I again took off the cap and retightened it, but when I started the car up it still said check gas cap. What is your thought and will this reset itself?  Do I need a new gas cap?    Why would this light come on when the gas cap is off as it does not come on when I fill up the car and have the gas cap off? Is there anything else besides a bad gas cap that could trigger this light?   If I buy a new gas cap, do you think it will make it go off and how long might that take?   The car has about 150,000 miles on it.”

Halderman:

The check gas cap message comes on if the system detects a leak in the fuel system. If the cap looks normal and seems to be okay, then try driving the vehicle for a week or so and see if the message goes away. It will not go away until the system does another self-test. The self-test has to be performed under very strict conditions, such as after 8 hours soak time with the temperature within a certain range and the fuel level between 15% and 85%. Therefore, if the fuel level is too high or too low, the self-test will not occur and the light will remain on. You can ask your technician to turn the warning light off using a scan tool but be prepared to pay for this service. If the light comes back, have a technician check the cap for leakage and if the cap is not leaking, this means that there is likely a leak in the evaporative emission control system. Testing this system usually requires that a special machine be used, so while a replacement gas cap will often take care of this concern, be prepared for further diagnostic charges and repair expense if the leak is not caused by the gas cap.

“I have a 1993 Ford Taurus, 3.8 liter engine in it. It runs good and has plenty of power. But sometimes after I stop and turn off the engine, the car won’t start if I try restarting the car right after I turn the engine off. When this happens, I get no spark and the fuel pump does not kick in to pump gas when I turn on the ignition switch, but the engine turns over but the car won’t start. I replaced the fuel pump, ignition control module and fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. But after I let the car sit a while it will start and run perfect. Why?”

Halderman:

While there could be several possible causes of this problem, I always try to check the simple things first. These simple things are usually the lowest cost items too so to me this is the best approach to take. You have verified that you do not have spark or fuel when the engine does not start. This leads me to what controls both systems. The one common component that operates both systems is the main relay. This main relay is located under the hood and varies in location depending on the exact year and model but I think it is located under the plastic cover at the radiator. Check service information for the exact location of the main relay.

Other possible causes include:

1. A defective or intermittent crankshaft position (CKP) sensor
2. A defective or intermittent camshaft position (CMP) sensor
3. A defective or intermittent ignition control module (ICM)
4. A defective or intermittent Powertrain control module (PCM)

If the main relay does not take care of your problem, then I suggest that your vehicle be checked out by a professional service technician who can diagnosis the system and determine the root cause. While this will cost you some diagnostic charges, it is usually less expensive than trying to fix a problem by replacing parts until it is fixed which a very expensive and wasteful approach to troubleshooting.

“I have a 2005 Saturn 300L that has about 130,000 miles and when it runs, it runs great. However, over the past several months, it has failed to start. The engine cranks normally but not fire. If I wait a few minutes it has started. Then last month it stalled on me and it never did start so it was towed to a local shop. They could not duplicate the problem as it always start and ran normally when they had it and there were no stored diagnostic trouble codes. Then last week, it happened again and this time the shop was able to retrieve a diagnostic trouble code for a crankshaft position sensor. I approved their replacing this sensor and I have not had any problems since. What are your thoughts about this being the cause of my previous problems and is there something else that you think needs to be replaced. I am giving this car to my son to take to college and I don’t want him to be stranded”.

Halderman:

It appears that the shop did all of the right things. They did not “throw parts” at the car in an attempt to fix the car without a diagnostic trouble code and they replaced what is most likely the root cause of the problem. Diagnosing a situation of an intermittent problem is difficult and sometimes impossible without using a scope. The crankshaft position sensor is used by the engine computer, called a powertrain control module, abbreviated PCM, to control the spark similar to the function of a distributor in older vehicles. If the sensor fails, usually when hot, the sensor stops sending a signal and the engine stops running. If a scope was connected, the signal could be seen as stopping but this signal would also stop if the engine stopped, running for other reasons. This is why it is so hard to diagnose. Regarding other things that can be done, I suggest you ask the shop to look over the entire vehicle to make sure it is safe first and that all of the needed routine services, such as an oil change and filters replaced have been addressed. Then it should be ready to go to college with your son.

“I’m the original and sole owner of a 1993 Honda DelSol.  The car has 156,000 original miles.  The car has been maintained per owner’s manual.

My problem:

The last few years I’ve had some ignition problems on occasion.  I drive the car to the store and park.  When I get back to the car and try to start it, the car will crank over but won’t fire.  Sometimes I’ll take the gas cap off and put it back on.  I’ll let it sit for a time and try to start again.  That seems to work.  I haven’t had it towed yet, but it is frightening to be marooned like that.   Hope you can help.   Thank you.”

Halderman: 

Because the car will start after you remove the gas cap, tells me that the problem is fuel system related. The most common cause would be a weak fuel pump. I suggest that you have a shop test the pump for pressure and volume to see if this is the cause. Check your service history and see when the fuel filter was last replaced. If it is partially clogged, this could be a cause also. Most shops will replace the fuel filter at the same time the pump is replaced so be prepared for that minor extra expense. Other possible causes include a weak main relay or a bad ignition control module.

“Jim, a friend of mine is having a problem with his Mazda MPV. See below. Any suggestions?

I have a gremlin in the Mazda MPV. It starts fine, then I go somewhere it doesn’t start and nothing works. However, if it is jump started, it starts right up. I had the battery and alternator tested and they tested fine. The connection to the starter is tight. For the mechanic, it starts right up repeatedly. I take it to my daughter’s house and it won’t start again”.

Halderman:

Two things come to mind. First, the battery can test okay and still be the cause. If it is three years old or older, I think it would be wise to replace it as the first step. If that does not do it, then it can be the ignition switch or main relay. The main relay powers everything so this is my best guess. Still a guess until a professional can check it out. Good luck and let me know what you find.

Update:

Gary wrote back and said he took it to a professional who was able to fix the problem.

“Jim, my friend writes that the battery was not the problem but the electronic ignition was. The Mazda MPV apparently has a theft deterrent device attached to the battery. It was not properly connected. The technician cleaned the connection and properly fastened it. The problem has since disappeared”.

“I have an oil additive question: Would adding Pyroil engine oil additive to my 2000 Honda Accord have any adverse effect on the catalytic converter? The car has about 100,000 miles on it.   In the past I’ve used it with 1960s and 1970s Chevrolets and Fords, but that was before the catalytic converter days. I am unsure of the chemicals used in the additive”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Neither Honda nor any vehicle manufacturers recommend the use of any additive. Most oil additives do contain high levels of zinc which can cause damage to the catalytic converter. The term used for the most commonly used zinc additive is ZDDP. This additive is needed in older engines (usually engine built before 1980) that use flat bottom lifters.

Even then, the use of the zinc additive is most important during the break-in period.

If a zinc additive is used, it will not likely be noticed for many miles or years because the zinc used needs to be burned in the combustion chamber then to the catalytic converter where it will reduce its efficiency. Because so little oil is used in newer engines the affect can take a long time. Also the additive will not do anything except maybe make you feel better that you have taken good care of the engine even though you have not.

“I have a 1996 Chevrolet pickup doing some strange things. A little background, I bought it used, 179,000 miles on the odometer, and had complete tune-up performed including a new exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve. This truck misfires on the several cylinders when the EGR valve opens up driving down the road, when the EGR disconnected, it works fine. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is always P0300 (random misfire detected). The misfire counter shows extreme misfire on cylinders 3, 4, 5 and 6. My first thought was EGR valve, it doesn’t seem as bad (the problem, as the old EGR valve was sticking), but it is still misfiring, worse during a hill.

Do you think I should look into having the P.C.M. reprogrammed?

By the way, I do not know if this would affect drivability, but the catalytic converters don’t seem to be working either, but the code hasn’t set for awhile. The oxygen sensors do seem to be working fine. Let me know what you think.”

Halderman:

Your truck is equipped with a central sequential type of fuel injection which is unique and only used on General Motors trucks. This design of fuel injection uses injector nozzles that are opened by the force of the fuel under pressure when it is pulsed on. This system has a pattern failure mode for becoming clogged and not being able to supply fuel to all of the cylinders in the correct amounts. This can lead to misfires. Another pattern failure with this unit is that the fuel pressure regulator leaks fuel. The fuel that leaks is then drawn into the cylinders that are close to the leak. The oxygen sensors then sense a richer than normal air-fuel mixture in the exhaust. The computer then commands a leaner mixture to be supplied by the injectors. It is this rich then lean condition that could be causing your misfire condition.

While there are many other possible causes for this condition, I think it is time to check the fuel injection system for proper operation.

For more information about this type of fuel injection system go to www.lindertech.com

Below is a summary of the faults that can occur with this type of system as posted on the Linder Technical Services web site:

Resistance: The minimum resistance of this injector is 11.8 ohms at room temperature.
Recommendation: Replace the original poppet style unit with the newer mini injector style. This unit uses a mini injector at the end of each tube. There are plastic injector protectors attached to each injector that fits into the intake ports protecting the injectors from carbon and sticking. The unit is a direct replacement. Always replace the upper intake gasket when replacing this unit.
EXTRA: Fuel pressure is very critical on these systems. One of the first checks made should be fuel pressure. Pressure should be 58 psi or above with key on, engine off and idle pressure should be 54 psi or above.

“I recall that when I was having some type of problem, don’t remember what, with my 1999 Ford Explorer that the computer needed reset. You had given the info that I should disconnect the battery, hit the brake pedal and it would reset the computer. Am I correct and if so, does this work for GM products? This is just a question that keeps running through my mind”.

Halderman:

Yes, you are correct that often the vehicle computer can be reset by performing the following steps:

Step 1-Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery (NOT the positive cable).

Step 2- Depress the brake pedal all of the way several times.

Step 3– Reattach the negative battery cable and start the engine

The reason this often works is that the brake lights are “hot at all times” and will light if the brake pedal is depressed. The current flow through the brake light bulbs will drain the charge in all of the capacitors in the system and will, in many cases, reset the computer memory. This may help restore proper engine idling speed and transmission shifting. However, it can also not do anything especially on newer vehicles. This procedure will also delete all of the radio stations stored in the radio and the memory seat positions.

“I have a 1992 Chevy Astro van with 206,000 miles. I have never had anything major wrong with it but in the last couple of months it has developed a problem with the idle. While stopped at red lights, or anytime while in gear, the idle is pretty rough. It is especially rough when the AC is on. There is no hesitation in acceleration, no lack of power, except uphill with the AC on. It was suggested that I might have a vacuum leak but could not find any. Thanks for any help you can give.”

Halderman: 

There are many possible causes for this problem, but from my experience, a fault in the high- voltage ignition system is the most common. Have the spark plug wires inspected or replaced if they are original. Original wires have a date printed on them such as 9/02. Also inspect the distributor cap and rotor as these can also cause your problem. A fault in the ignition system, while often detected as a misfire, is often noticed at idle.

Wheels:

What if the ignition system including the spark plugs and spark plug wires are Okay? What else can Dave check?

Halderman:

Other causes include:

• A leaking gasket at the intake manifold (most likely). This leak could be internal, meaning that it is drawing air from under the intake manifold and therefore, will not be detected using usual methods.
• A fault in the fuel injection system, such as a clogged or inoperative fuel injector
• An engine mechanical fault, such as a burned valve or a worn camshaft
• A partially stuck open exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve

Wheels:

What do you suggest that Dave do to find the root cause of the problem?

Halderman:

For this type of problem where the root cause could be anything from a simple problem such as a stuck EGR valve or a major engine fault, I suggest that Dave take the vehicle to have it diagnosed by a professional service technician. While the shop will charge for the diagnosis, I believe that this is worth it as it helps prevent unnecessary parts being replaced.

“Now that it is cooler, I haven’t been using premium gas however I have noticed that if I floor the accelerator to pass someone or go on an access ramp, I still can hear just a little of the marbling noise. Is there something going on with my truck I need to look at?”

Halderman:

What you are hearing is called one of several terms used in the industry including:

• Ping
• Detonation
• Spark knock (my favorite term for this)

The cause is the uneven burning of the air-fuel mixture inside the cylinders of the engine. Engineers have said that if you hear a little spark knock, that means that the engine is tuned for maximum power. Sometimes this is called “the sound of economy” because if you do not hear it the engine could be adjusted to give slightly more power and better fuel economy. However, if this noise is just now being heard and it was not heard before, something has changed to make this occur. Several possible causes include:

1. A tank of fuel that has a lower octane rating compared to the fuel you had been using
2. A restricted exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve or passages, limiting the amount of exhaust gases being re-circulated back into the combustion chamber.
3. Carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber

Therefore, the first thing you can do is to try a different brand of gasoline. You should not have to purchase midgrade (plus) or premium fuel although this will stop the noise, but will not solve the root cause and will cost more. If this action does not help, try using Techron in the gas tank. Techron is the only gasoline additive I know that is approved by several vehicle manufacturers. If after using Techron for a tank and the problem is still present, then it is time to see a professional service technician. A service technician can check the computer using a scan tool to see if there is any indication of faults with the EGR system or some other problem, such as with the cooling system that can cause the engine to operate hotter than normal. Often a cleaning of the exhaust passages around the EGR valve will solve this problem but only after the engine control system has been checked and confirmed to be operating correctly.

“Jim, I read your articles weekly. I have a 2000 Ford Windstar van with the big V6. It has 178,000 miles and runs on 87 octane fuel. Over the last 50,000 miles it has developed what I believe to be pre-ignition rattle after the engine is up to operating temperature. The one shop I took it to said the problem is carbon build up in the combustion chambers. The carbon gets hot and creates the pre-ignition condition. He suggested using a product called “Seafoam” to remove the carbon from the upper chamber but this would not solve the problem but may reduce it. I read the article published a few weeks ago about the machine that was used to remove carbon from the combustion chamber on a Cadillac to free up piston rings. Is this a possible solution to my “rattling problem?”

Halderman:

Yes it is. There can also be a clogged exhaust port from the EGR valve to the intake. This cannot be fixed using a chemical, but instead the valve and tubing will need to be removed and the carbon cleaned out. The passages on your van are located under the intake manifold so there will be some labor involved getting to them. This is a very common problem with the 3.8 liter V-6 and can be fixed, but it could involve some expense for labor. Except for gaskets and cleaning supplies, there should not be any other parts involved. Check with a professional technician to have the ports cleaned as it can be an involved process for the do-it-yourselfer.

“My Oldsmobile Intrigue runs, just fine gas mileage as good as ever, but the service engine soon light stays lit. Had it scanned at local parts store and the report came back “secondary air injection system fault” Some probable causes stated that can cause this diagnostic trouble code  include:

1.  air duct system fault
2. open or short circuit condition
3. poor electrical connection

I really do not know what to do about this.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.”

Halderman:

This is a relatively common concern with vehicle equipped with an electric AIR pump. The term “AIR” stands for “air injection reaction” and is a pump that delivers low pressure air into the exhaust to help reduce exhaust emissions. This pump comes on only when the engine is cold and supplies additional air to help oxidize carbon monoxide (CO) into carbon dioxide, and unburned hydrocarbons (HC) into water vapor and carbon dioxide. The electric air pump is located (usually) low under the hood toward the front on the driver’s side. It gets splashed with water and this can cause corrosion problems. It may be covered by your warranty as it is an emission control device.

Wheels:

What should Al do?

Halderman:

I suggest that you take your vehicle to a dealer or shop and ask them to confirm the fault. It may or may not be covered if your vehicle is older than the warranty timeline. The part could be expensive so look at the possibility of finding one at a wrecking (recycling) yard. The replacement of the unit should be straight forward and not involve more than an hour of a technician’s time to replace. Ask that the diagnostic trouble code be erased so you will know if it happened again.

Note that this system is also called the “secondary air injection” (SAI) system so you may have to use this term to get the correct part.

“I have a 2001 BMW Z3 Roadster with the 3.0 engine. Sometimes when accelerating in low gear, it hesitates as if the ignition was switched off and then on. It does not do it all the time, but often enough that it is aggravating. I have the feeling that it may be related to engine temperature. It never does anything like this in any other gear. It runs fine otherwise and doesn’t do this even every time I drive it. As you can imagine OFF-ON while accelerating in low gear results in a     HERKY-JERKY motion to the driver and passenger. After the BIG hesitation it will accelerate further if I want. Sometimes I just shift to second. Another thing that happens in low gear less often. When accelerating with the accelerator pedal at a steady position the engine seems  to increase in power and acceleration. All problems happen in low gear only. The car has nearly 80,000 miles on it. Any thoughts on this will be much appreciated.”

 Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The first thing that I thought about was that the engine has a restricted intake system. This can be one of several things including:

1. A restricted air intake caused by road debris, such as a plastic bag caught in the air filter.
2. A dirty air filter
3. A dirty throttle plate

This last item is the most common and the most likely cause of your concern. A quick visual inspection may help eliminate the first two causes. If everything looks normal, see a professional shop or dealer for advice. Carbon cleaning is commonly done at most shops. This is not a do-it-yourself type service as it requires an expensive machine and unique chemicals (detergents and dispersants). While at the shop, the technicians could also check for other causes of the problem, such as a fault in the ignition system or the fuel injection system.

“I get a slight hesitation on occasion when I am in gear and want to move from a stopped position. A service rep. suggested to de-carbonize the engine. Another person of knowledge felt I would be making a mistake and. could cause more harm than good. He also suggested a new manifold as a better option. I respect your opinion.” 

Halderman:

The term “de-carbonization” is often confusing and can include several different operations including:

• Cleaning the carbon from the combustion chamber inside the engine
• Cleaning the carbon from the air inlet and throttle plate area
• Cleaning the engine lubricating parts by using chemicals in the engine oil

The common cause is a dirty throttle plate and air intake area. This cleaning should be about $100 and is now considered to be part of routine service. Cleaning the combustion chamber is more involved and would cost more. This may not be needed because the usual symptom for needing this done is failure of an emission test for oxides of nitrogen (NOx). Unless you live in an emission testing area, then having this performed, while helpful, will not be as effective as cleaning the air intake and throttle plate to help reduce the hesitation problem you are describing.

A new intake manifold gasket (not an intake manifold) may be needed. When this gasket leaks,  coolant can leak to the outside or into the engine oil.

Halderman:

Update about Gary’s noisy Chevrolet truck. I aksed readers to let me know htier ideas or suggestion.

Romey wrote by e-mail: 

“I just had another experience of the strange bearing noise — I have two idlers on my serpentine belt and both were bad!  The noise is now gone!

I don’t ever remember having anything like this and as difficult to trouble shoot”.

Update from Gary (truck owner who had the noise):

“I finally got my truck repaired at a local shop and the drive home last night and coming to work this morning was much nicer. All the bearings in the rear axle were replaced as a group. New synthetic gear lube and the GM additive was put in. So, I setup my truck’s computer to check instant and average mpg, and initial results indicate I improved maybe as much a 2 mpg.

Personally, I think this is too high, however, with one bearing being toast and all the others worn maybe it is correct. As I think about replacing all these bearings together as a group and then putting in new synthetic gear oil, it just might be all of these together that made such a dramatic difference”.

Halderman:

Thanks everyone and thank you Gary for letting the readers know what the cause and correction was to the noise you were hearing while driving your truck.

“My mom has a 1999 Nissan Altima. Lately, when you barely press the gas the car kind of “bucks” almost like it is bogging down until you apply more gas. Also, there is a bad vibration in the steering wheel. We have had several different people look at the car and no one can quite figure out what it is. So far we have replaced the brakes, calipers, stabilizer link, master cylinders, tie rod, one CV joint boot, and also put on brand new tires. One person thought it might be the EGR but we cleaned it and it appears to be working. I was writing in hopes that you would be able to help me. I am at a loss and without the income to keep trying things that are of no help. Thank you so much for your time, and if there is any more information I could provide, please let me know. Thanks again.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Both issues could be the result of a dirty throttle body. This can cause a hesitation when accelerating and a rough idle which might be what you are referring to a vibration in the steering wheel when the vehicle is stopped with the engine running. If the steering wheel vibrates during braking, this condition is usually caused by warped disc brake rotors. Replacing the brake pads and calipers would not fix this concern. It appears that in an effort to save money, many parts have been replaced. I suggest that in the long run, paying a professional service technician to diagnose the cause of the problem is usually money well spent. For the hesitation concern, I suggest that you ask a professional technician to check for any stored or pending diagnostic trouble codes and perform a thorough visual inspection. Often, a procedure called “decarbonization” is needed to solve hesitation problems which could include the following:

1. Running a carbon cleaning solution through the fuel injectors will not only clean the injectors but will also help remove combustion chamber deposits.
2. Cleaning the throttle body assembly and air intake system. This will also help remove deposits that accumulate on the intake valves. These intake valve deposits can often cause the engine to stall or run poorly after a cold start.

I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0 liter, inline 6-cylinder. The car has about 63,000 miles.  A few months ago the “check engine light” came on.  The guy at the car parts store put his reader on it and the code pointed to the oxygen sensor. My son found a blog which said to first check the 5 amp fuses which could be found in the black box under the hood.  My Jeep has about five 15 amp fuses in the box. All tested good, but when I put them back in, the check engine light was no longer on.  The light stayed out for about a week but came back on.  I narrowed the culprit down to certain one of the 15 amp fuses.  This has been the normal mode of operations for the last several months.  If I pull the fuse and stick it back in, the light usually goes out.  But it comes back on after a day or two.  A few times it stayed out for almost a week.  Just for the heck of it, I did change the fuse.    My theory has been the oxygen sensor must not be bad if the light does not come back on, for sometimes almost a week.  A friend speculated that what’s probably happening is I’m resetting the computer each time I pull the fuse.  Another piece of possibly related information, which I found in a manual) states as follows for my particular jeep (model and  year).” On 1988 through 1990 models, an emission maintenance timer   (mounted on the dash panel, to the right of the steering column)  activates an emissions maintenance indicator light when the oxygen sensor is scheduled for replacement (approximately 82,500 miles).”  As stated above I have only 63,000 miles, but somehow the age of the vehicle may be showing.    I would appreciate any light you could throw on this problem.

Halderman: 

I wish I had the actual code number. There is a code for the heater circuit, which as you said is controlled by a fuse. The other codes relate to how fast it switches from rich to lean and from lean to rich.

There are also codes related to which sensor it is either the upstream or the downstream sensor. If I know the exact code, this will help me narrow down where the problem might be. Thanks.

Wheels:

The reader wrote back and provided the diagnostic code information:

O₂ sensor

Bank 1

Sensor 2

P0138

Halderman:

This code tells me that it is the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter and it is sensing a high voltage.

It could be that the converter is not working as designed or that the sensor has failed and some of the heater current is getting into the signal wire. It will take a professional to distinguish the difference by performing tests of the converter and by looking at scan tool data.

I also asked Tom Freels, the Chrysler Automotive Program (CAP) coordinator at Sinclair Community College, for his opinion of this fault and he wrote:

“I agree, most likely a failed O₂ heater is shorting internally. The light probably stayed off for a while due to the OBD-II monitor running 2 consecutive failed trips on a long enough drive. I have also seen Cherokees do this and blow the fuse that the customer is referring to. Hope this helps.”

Thanks Tom. It looks like it is time to see a professional service technician so the root cause can be found and corrected.

“After reading the article on the stalling Chevy in your column, I wanted to write to say I have a similar problem but, with a different car.  We own a 1999 Chrysler 300 with a 3.5 liter engine and about 125 K miles.  Like the gentleman with the Chevy my problem is ongoing for several years.  The car will stall but, most of the time only for a second or two.  Often, it’s like a quick nose dive and then the car is fine.  Sometimes the engine dies completely, but when this happens, it usually restarts first try.  The engine light comes on but then over time goes back out.  The car is still in very good shape in every other way but this issue makes the car undependable.  As I said in the beginning, this problem has been ongoing for a few years.  These are the repairs I’ve done or had done over time:

• Computer replaced,
• MAP sensor replaced,
• Crank sensor replaced,
• Coil replaced.

I’m at a loss, please help.”

Halderman:

While I had some ideas, for very specific problems, I ask the experts. I asked Tom Freels, the program coordinator for the Chrysler Automotive Program (CAP) at Sinclair Community College for his help. Here is what he wrote:

“This is a tough one since the parts that he listed replaced are all ones that I would look for. That only leaves a few possibilities with wiring harness and electrical connector pin tension issues maybe. I have seen oil sending units push oil into the harness and contaminate the crank sensor plug making an intermittent stall condition.   It would be most beneficial to know what code is coming up with the MIL light on. Hope this helps, I know that it is not definitive but gives a few more things to check.”

Thanks Tom. I think it is time to take your vehicle to a professional technician who can check the wiring, especially the wiring that leads to the crankshaft position sensor. This wiring is right above the engine and is subject to heat from the engine which can burn the insulation. It takes a little vibration for the bare wire to touch something metal causing your problem.

“My 2003 Chevy Avalanche sometimes seems as though it’s going to cut off, but when turning a corner it does indeed cut off, it is so quiet that I don’t realize it until the steering wheel is hard to turn, it sometimes does it when I’m at a stop light too.  I have had it put on a diagnostic machine but no codes come up and the check engine light is not on either.  I was going to take it to my local Chevy dealer but they want $90.00 per hour  to check it out and with the economy the way it is I don’t know if I can afford that, who knows how long they will say it took them to diagnose the problem?  And that doesn’t include them fixing it!  Please give me your honest opinion as to what I should do”.

Halderman:

Your problem could be caused by a dirty throttle plate. If the throttle plate is coated with carbon this will cause your problem and it will not set any trouble codes. What is happening is that the air passes through the intake passage around the throttle plate. Over time, this passage (throttle body) gets restricted due to the accumulation of fuel residue and carbon.

The symptoms of this restriction include:

• Rough or unstable idle
• Hesitation when first accelerating
• Stalling when coming to a stop such as a stop sign or traffic light

This is a very common service that any shop can perform for a reasonable amount.

Wheels:

What is done to clean the throttle body and air inlet passage?

Halderman:

There are several ways that this cleaning is done and it varies as to the type of carbon cleaning equipment that the shop or dealer uses. Some machines spray a cleaning chemical into the throttle area and run the engine at the same time. This process not only cleans the throttle plate area but the cleaner also helps cleans the deposits from the intake valve. Other methods just clean the throttle plate and the air inlet area which is also very effective to cure the hesitation during acceleration as described by ZD.

“I am an industrial maintenance mechanic and supervisor for 40 years and I try to do my own maintenance on my vehicles. I drive a 2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 that has 160,000 highway miles and the motor is in excellent condition. My problem has been ongoing for about three years. It started on a vacation trip as I was driving on the highway and the engine just shut off, no jerking, no sputtering, coughing, or anything except that the tachometer showed no RPM. I put the car in neutral and restarted the engine with no trouble. This has been ongoing and increasing in occurrences for three years. About six months for the second time and then more frequently getting progressively worse until now it does this about two times every tank full of gas. Since the beginning I keep seeing a code (P0336 Crankshaft position sensor). This is completely random and intermittent. The engine always will start back up right away and runs good. I am afraid to keep driving this car since it could shut down without my realizing it for a few seconds and loose my steering or braking. Do you think it is worth a shot to change the crank position sensor that the dealer said is not the problem? If so, is it necessary to take it back and have the dealer do the relearning sequence for the sensor after a new installation? Any advice that you  give would be helpful and very appreciated”.

Halderman:

The condition means that a major (called a high-authority) sensor is affecting the engine operation. There are two: the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and the mass airflow (MAF) sensor. I have fixed several with this condition. I was lazy. It was easy to unplug the MAF sensor to see if the engine stalled, and it did not, so the MAF was replaced and the fault did not occur again. I know this is not the correct way to diagnose as I should have checked the output of the sensor over time using the movie mode of a scan tool or a scope. If you do unplug the MAF sensor, it will set a code so be prepared to clear it using a scan tool. The CKP could also be the cause and maybe more likely due to the high miles. The front bearing can wear on these 3800 engines causing the crankshaft reluctor rings to contact the sensor.  The fix for this condition is to replace the main engine bearings. You can check this by checking for play at the crankshaft, most easily done through the right front wheel well.

“The engine in my 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue quits for no apparent reason at various times. Your suggestion to check all grounds was completed. Now notice that when this happens the odometer jumps to trip odometer. I even tried driving in trip odometer mode, but this did not help, it just jumps back to regular odometer. Took the car to a good mechanic and he thinks it could be the ignition switch. The only time the mode changes is when the car quits. There is no check engine light on so scanning would not help. I read your column weekly and value your opinion. I might add when this happens I turn the switch off and it restarts just fine.”

Halderman:

I would tend to agree with your technician that the ignition switch is the reason for this condition. The ignition switch is a pattern failure item for your vehicle. It can be checked using a Tech 2 factory scan tool and have the technician check for the proper “power mode” as displayed on the screen. Another possible cause is a bad alternator that has excessive AC voltage output due to failed diode. The output amperage will be normal and therefore will test as working normally, but a technician should test it for AC ripple voltage. If over 0.5 volt AC, the alternator should be replaced. This is tested by using a digital multimeter set to read AC volts. Connect the meter leads to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Start the engine and turn on the headlights and the blower motor to create an electrical load on the battery. This load forces the alternator to produce current and this is when excessive AC ripple voltage can be detected. Look at the meter display. It is normal to read 0.2 to 0.4 volts. If over 0.5 volt, there is a potential problem. See a professional service technician before replacing an alternator based on this one test alone.

“I own a 2000 GMC Jimmy (I bought used a year ago) and on occasion the darn thing does not want to start.  It is getting juice and everything it just does not start.  If you wait 15-20 minutes and try again, it will start.  I have taken it in to repair shop and they worked on it thoroughly not finding the problem.  They suggested that maybe it had to do with the ‘security theft’ system and stated that maybe disabling that system may eliminate the problem.  So my question to you is this something you have heard of happening before and is there an ‘easy’ reasonable cost fix to this problem?  Is it possible that the dealership can disable the alarm security system, which by the way I have no idea how it works or if it does?  Thank you”.

Halderman:

I do not think this problem is the result of the security system. The security warning lamp will be flashing and a scan tool can be used to find out if the system is active or not. It would be almost impossible to delete the security system because it is integral with the engine control and computer system.

There are several things that cause this problem and most will not set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If there was a code set, then normal diagnostic procedures are published showing the steps to follow to find the root cause. In this case, a technician has to check the basics and then perform tests to determine the root cause. You, as the driver, can help by telling the shop or dealer exactly when the problem occurs, including the temperature, if just the first thing in the morning, and any other information you can think of.

One thing that I thought about, and is a pattern failure item on this vehicle, is a weak electric fuel pump. Try this before attempting to start the engine:

• Turn the ignition switch to the ON (run) position, but do not rotate to the start position.
• This action will energize the fuel pump for two seconds.
• Turn the ignition off.
• Now try starting the engine. If it still does not start right away, repeat the above steps several times before attempting to start the engine.

If this action helps and the engine starts sooner, this confirms there is low fuel pressure and that the most likely cause is a weak fuel pump. Of course the fuel pump pressure, volume, and current draw should be checked to verify that the problem is the fuel pump.

Another possible cause is a defect in the ignition system but this is easy to check when it does not start by using a spark tester.

“I am hoping you can help me with a problem that has stumped me, a local VW dealer’s repair department, and my mechanic. I have a 2000 VW Passat (1.8L Turbo 4-cylinder with 5-speed manual transmission) that has the Engine Check light come on every time I start the car and after I reach 20mph or so, the “Emissions Workshop” warning pops up. Both the dealer and my mechanic ran some diagnostics and the only error code that pops up is P1128. The dealer, my mechanic, and I have tried various solutions to fix the problem–new gas cap, checking the air screen in the air box, checking the air filter cartridge, doing a smoke test for a vacuum leak, checking the mass air flow sensor, replacing two O2 sensors (near the engine and near the catalytic converter), and looking for an exhaust leak. After trying a fix and resetting the error codes, the check light stays off for a day or two then comes back on again. This has been going on for over a year. The car appears to run fine. The only real symptom we’ve noticed was some white residue around a replaced O2 sensor–my mechanic thinks that comes from the engine running lean but could not find a cause. Any suggestions would be appreciated”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. This code means that the exhaust is too lean for too long. The main sensor that determines the air-fuel mixture is the mass airflow (MAF) sensor. As you likely know, this is a pattern failure item on your vehicle.

A couple of things come to mind:

1. Do you have an aftermarket air filter? If so then this can cause contamination of the sensing element in the MAF.
2. When you checked the MAF, was the engine tested for volumetric efficiency? This program can be found on at www.lindertech.com . Look at the heading labeled “downloads”.

If the efficiency measured at WOT and inputting the grams per second of air from the MAF sensor should be 100% or higher on your turbocharged engine. The MAF output should be higher than 100 grams per second at WOT. If not, then, MAF sensor replacement is needed.

I hope this helps.

“I always find your columns very interesting and hope you can answer this question concerning the calculation of the miles per gallon figure that appears on a new car’s sticker.  I have been told the mileage ratings on the sticker are calculated using gas that does not contain ethanol.  Is this correct?  If so, since most cars use gasoline containing ethanol, which gives poorer mileage, aren’t the ratings shown on the sticker misleading.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The fuel used is indolene which is a fuel with an octane rating of (R+M/2) of 92.25. Gasoline varies all over the country and is blended for each season. Winter blend gasoline has less BTU energy than summer grade fuel so the fuel economy is lower in the winter than in the summer. The calculations of fuel economy take into account the average of all of these blends and for the added ethanol based on averages around the country. While the added ethanol could be as high as 10%, it is usually a lot less even though the pump says that it can contain up to 10%.

“You have helped me several times, different problems thanks, they have been very helpful.  On farm tractors made before 1972 you said to use lead additive mixed in the gasoline and that solved that problem for me.  Mine wouldn’t function without it.

Recently, I had trouble finding lead additive.  I don’t know if they were out of it or its getting hard to find.  One fellow told me he never uses lead additive, he uses a red liquid called Marvel Mystery Oil he mixes in his farm tractor gasoline, and he said it can also be mixed in the oil.

What’s your opinion on that?  Same, as good or, forget it? Whatever you say that is the way it will be because you were right about all the other questions I had.   Thanks.”

Halderman:

Lead is needed if the engine is run at full load for long periods where valve recession could occur. It would not affect the running of the engine, but instead it is used to prevent valve recession.  I think there must be another fault at work here such as incorrect valve adjustment that causes the engines to not run without it. Using Marvel Mystery Oil may work because it might free up sticky valves and piston rings. Always follow the instructions on the can. However, remember that no additive can “fix” a mechanical problem so I suggest that you ask a professional technician to look at the tractors to determine if the valves are correctly adjusted and that the fuel and ignition systems are working as designed.

“I have A 2002 Crown Victoria and the check gas cap light on the dash came on.  I stopped and checked the cap and it looked fine to me. I even added more gas. Still the check gas cap light remained on.  This morning after sitting all night in the garage, I again took off the cap and retightened it but when I started the car up it still said check gas cap. What is your thought and will this reset itself?  Do I need a new gas cap?    Why would this light come on when the gas cap is off as it does not come on when I fill up the car and have the gas cap off?

Is there anything else besides a bad gas cap that could trigger this light?   If I buy a new gas cap, do you think it will make it go off and how long might that take?   The car has about 150,000 miles on it.”

Halderman:

The check gas cap message comes on if the system detects a leak in the fuel system. If the cap looks normal and seems to be okay, then try driving the vehicle for a week or so and see if the message goes away. It will not go away until the system does another self-test. The self-test has to be performed under very strict conditions such as after 8 hours soak time with the temperature within a certain range and the fuel level between 15% and 85%. Therefore, if the fuel level is too high or too low, the self-test will not occur and the light will remain on. You can ask your technician to turn the warning light off using a scan tool but be prepared to pay for this service. If the light comes back, have a technician check the cap for leakage and if the cap is not leaking, this means that there is likely a leak in the evaporative emission control system. Testing this system usually requires that a special machine be used so while a replacement gas cap will often take care of this concern, be prepared for further diagnostic charges and repair expense if the leak is not caused by the gas cap.

“I want to install new spark plugs in my 2003 Buick Regal.  It has a 3.8-liter 6 cylinder.  I pulled one of the plug wires and a spiral spring popped out of the boot.  I was able to push the boot back onto the plug (with the wire still in place) and everything seems to be fine.  I checked the dealer’s parts department and also several auto parts stores, but no one carries a replacement set with this spiral wire in the boot.  One person thought it might be a type of boot reinforcement and another referred to it as a coil boot, but didn’t seem to have any further information on it.  I believe these are original wires since they have the firing order numbers marked on them which I understand are not marked on replacement wires.   Also, what is the purpose of the metal cylinder on each rubber plug boot? Thanks for any info you can provide.”

Halderman:

The spark plug wires like many components used today are designed to last the life of the vehicle. Starting in 1996, the vehicle manufacturer has to replace the vehicle computer or the catalytic converter if it fails within eight years or 80,000 miles. If a fault occurs in the ignition system, the unburned gasoline from the resulting misfire could cause damage to the catalytic converter. As a result, the wires are made so that they will provide high voltage to the spark plug even if they become loose. That is the purpose of the spiral coil in my opinion. The metal cylinder on each plug boot is a heat shield used to protect the boot from the heat from the nearby exhaust manifold. While the coil spiral may not be available, try to find high-quality replacement spark plugs from a known brand name manufacturer. Use of the heat shields on the new wires is also recommended.  I use a dab of silicone dielectric grease in the boots of the spark plug wire to help keep moisture out of the of the connection between the wire terminal and the spark plug.

“I know you have heard the horror stories about changing spark plugs in the Ford 4.6 and 5.4 engines. I have a 2004 F150 and was thinking of changing the plugs with 63000 miles on them. I was told the more miles you put on them the harder they are to get out! I know Ford has put out a technical service bulletin (TSB) about these plugs.  Do you think a weekend mechanic can change the plugs without breaking them? Do you know of a better way to get them out?”

Halderman:

Thanks for asking before you started work on removing these spark plugs. The design of the plugs results in a section of the plug that is smaller and weaker, which can cause them to break when being removed. When they break, it is sometimes necessary to remove the cylinder head to remove the broken off plug. It does not stop there. To remove the cylinder head, the cab of the truck usually has to be lifted off the frame. Therefore, it is wise that you ask a professional to replace these spark plugs. While some may be able to be removed without breaking, in most cases at least a few or more will require extensive work and time to remove. The usual procedure is to follow the TSB released by Ford that specifies the use of a penetrating oil and specific spark plug rotation during removal. Most technicians use a kit that includes special fittings that can be used to remove most of the plugs. However, most shops will estimate an hour per spark plug for replacement so save your money for the $800+ repair bill.

“I enjoy reading your articles every Saturday in the Dayton Daily News. You provide a wealth of information that has been very beneficial to me and my family.  I recently purchased a used 1997 New Holland Compact Tractor with a 3-cylinder 29 HP diesel engine. Since I will be changing the oil soon and this is my first experience with diesels, I was hoping you could provide information on what type of oil I should use. Does this require special diesel oil?  Thanks in advance for any help you can provide”.

Halderman:

Yes, all diesels require special oil. This is due to the need for a viscosity usually not used in gasoline engines, such as SAE 15W-40 and with an additive package designed to handle the soot that is formed in diesel engines. Check the owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website for the recommended oil to use. Many manufacturers have a list of brands and even part numbers also called “stock keeping units” or “SKU”s that can be taken to a parts store to help you find the exact oil to use.

I am writing just out of curiosity. If a person buys an extended range electric vehicle, what would happen to all of the gasoline components (fuel lines, gas tank, etc.) if the gasoline engine was never used?

Halderman:

Good question.  This situation has been addressed by the engineers who designed the vehicles. The Chevrolet Volt, for example, uses a computer program to keep track of the time and miles that the gasoline engine is not run. The engine maintenance mode is needed because:

■ Fuel can age and old fuel can cause problems with proper engine operation.

■ The engine needs to be kept lubricated to prevent rust and corrosion of internal engine parts.

To address these concerns the controller is capable of performing the following functions:

1. Fuel weathering. The powertrain control module keeps track of the amount of fuel used during each drive cycle and calculates the percentage of new and old fuel that is in the fuel tank. If the age of the fuel is determined to be a concern, the driver will be notified that the engine will likely be started to use some of the fuel. It may require several drive cycles for the fuel to be used so that even though the vehicle is used only in electric vehicle mode, it will use some gasoline to maintain fresh fuel in the system. This condition will be rarely used and the gasoline life monitor will attempt to keep the fuel in the tank so that it is less than a year old.

2. Engine Lubrication. To help keep the mechanical parts of the gasoline engine at peak operating efficiency the powertrain control module will perform the following actions if the engine has not run for an extended period.

 

These modes will be very rare and used only if the vehicle is used in electric vehicle mode for many days or weeks. Some of the things that the vehicle computer can do include:

■ Power the actuators such as the electronic throttle control (no engine operation).

■ Engine spin without fuel.

■ Engine spin with fuel and spark (too lean to cause the engine to actually start).

■ Engine start to purge contaminates from the oil and condensate from the exhaust.

Many readers are interested in hybrid electric vehicles and a few others in electric vehicles.  What are your thoughts about this technology and how do you feel about the relatively long payback period.

Halderman:

I own a hybrid electric vehicle and I love it. It is very smooth and quiet and it gets better fuel economy that the non-hybrid version of the same vehicle. I am always asked how long it would take to pay the extra I paid for the hybrid version based on the fuel cost savings. I calculated that it will be about 80,000 miles so there is a pay back if I keep it longer than that. Then I thought about some of the other options I have. However no one asks what the payback is for other options such as the air conditioning or the cruise control. I did not purchase the hybrid for the fuel economy. I purchased it because I love the technology and because I was writing a hybrid textbook, I thought I should have some product knowledge to go along with knowing about the technical aspects. Do I think that hybrid electric and electric vehicles will become more common? Yes, for several reasons:

1. Energy cost (fuel), I think will continue to increase over time.
2. Emission standards keep getting more and more stringent
3. Fuel economy standards are requiring that all vehicles must get better fuel economy and using hybrid technology is one way to achieve greater fuel economy and keep the same size vehicle.

However, the technology used in hybrid electric vehicles is not just limited to use in hybrid vehicles, features such as electric power steering, first used in hybrid electric vehicles is now being used in almost half of all new vehicles today. Stop/stop technology, where fuel savings are achieved by stopping the engine when at idle speed and then starting it again when the driver releases the brake pedal, is being used on some conventional vehicles today.   Using a special heavy duty starter can perform this action that before was only done in hybrid electric vehicles.

Electric only vehicles are great as a second vehicle and their range is increasing and therefore may be a good option for many vehicle buyers. The biggest disadvantage is cost and that applies to plug-in hybrid electric vehicles, too. Do I think hybrid and electric vehicles sales will increase? Yes, especially if charging stations are available at schools, businesses, and shopping centers. I can’t wait to charge my vehicle and grocery shop at the same time.

“Cars operated by batteries are much in the news, however, I have seen almost nothing about how long a battery for any given car will last, or it’s replacement cost.  We paid $2,800 to replace a main battery, which was in its eleventh year, in a 2004 Honda Civic Hybrid.  The replacement battery is only guaranteed for 3 years.  It seems to me this is an area that needs more information and discussion.  I enjoy your columns in the Dayton Daily News and always finding them very interesting.  Keep them coming!”

Halderman:

Thanks for the kind words. The “high-voltage battery” is not just one large battery, but instead is made up of individual cells about 1 to 2 volts each all connected together to achieve the system voltage needs of the vehicle. For example, your Honda battery pack uses nickel metal hydride (NiMH) chemistry. The battery pack is manufactured by Panasonic EV Energy and weighs about 48 pounds.  The battery pack, sometimes called the battery module, is constructed in a modular form.  The individual NiMH cells are the same size as standard D-cell flashlight batteries. Constructing the module from standard sized cells helps to ensure cost-effectiveness.

These cells, which are grouped together in sealed packages of six cells each, are positioned end-to-end. The arrangement is 6 cells across by 3 cells high by 7 cells deep, with the rearmost row being only 2 cells high, for a total of 120 cells. The cells each have a voltage of 1.2 volts and are connected in series for a battery module terminal voltage of 144 volts. The rated capacity of the battery module is 6.5 ampere hours (Ah), resulting in a storage capacity of about one kilowatt.

Some companies rebuild, the battery packs, which are sold to shops at a lower cost than what you paid. These reconditioned modules are electrically balanced throughout the entire battery pack, which takes a long time to achieve.

While many hybrid electric and electric vehicles can operate for many years without a loss of capacity enough to affect performance, all batteries deteriorate over time. To help prevent this from happening without warning, ask your service technician to check the status and of the battery pack when it is in for service.

“I currently own a Chevrolet pickup truck that is almost 20 years old and I want to purchase a car next time and something that gets better fuel economy. Some of my friends and co-workers have suggested that I buy a hybrid vehicle, such as a Prius because fuel economy is important to me since I changed jobs that now involves a long compute of about 100 miles a day. However, I really don’t want a hybrid because I don’t want to have to plug it in every night when I am home. What do you suggest? Thanks”.

Halderman:

I think you are confusing an electric vehicle (EV) with a hybrid electric vehicle (HEV).  Hybrid vehicles use both a gasoline engine and an electric motor, and do not need to be plugged in to an electrical outlet to charge the high-voltage battery. The gasoline engine is used to keep the battery charged. An electric car, such as a Nissan Leaf or a Tesla, are all electric without a gasoline engine and these must be plugged in to charge the high-voltage battery.

There are many vehicles that get outstanding fuel economy and many are not hybrid electric vehicles (HEV). Hybrid electric vehicles achieve their superior fuel economy by trapping the energy during braking, called regenerative braking.  As a result, they achieve their best fuel economy when driven in the city stop and go traffic. Many vehicles today are able to deliver 30 miles per gallon or more, especially on the highway and some can achieve 40 MPG. I am sure that you will find a vehicle that meets your needs and it may or may not be a hybrid, but don’t overlook purchasing a hybrid. I have one and I love it.

“I have heard many people talk about hybrid vehicles but I do not understand them.  Please answer some questions that I have regarding hybrid vehicles. What is meant by a hybrid? Do they have to be plugged in? What happens if the battery goes dead? How much does a new hybrid battery cost? What is the advantage or a hybrid? Thanks for your help.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing and this is a commonly asked question because of all the new terms being used.

The word “hybrid” means that the vehicle can be propelled using two sources of power.

1. An internal combustion engine, usually a conventional gasoline engine tuned to provide the highest possible efficiency and fuel economy.
2. One or more electric motors that can help propel the vehicle and act as a generator to recharge the high-voltage battery pack.

A hybrid vehicle does not need to be plugged in because the high-voltage battery is kept charged by the motor/generator. The high-voltage batteries are kept to a state -of-charge of between 40% and 80%.  Not allowing the battery to be discharged below 40% and not be charged over 80% greatly improves the life and the batteries are lasting the life of the vehicle without needing to be replaced.

There are some new hybrid electric vehicles on the market that add additional battery capacity and these are called plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) and can be driven for a short distance (10 miles to 40 miles) on battery power alone and then the gasoline engine starts and the vehicle operates as a conventional hybrid vehicle. While the cost of the PHEV is a lot higher, the advantage is that it can operate on electric power during a short commute. However, a PHEV does have to be plugged in to charge the battery back to the level needed to provide electric-only operation.

Hybrid electric vehicles offer improved fuel economy yet they do cost more than a conventional similar vehicle. The fuel economy improvements come from two major operations of a hybrid electric vehicle.

1. Idle stop, also called start-stop. The gasoline engine stops when the vehicle is stopped, yet the air conditioning and heater system continue to operate.
2. Regenerative braking. The brakes on a hybrid vehicle use the electric motor and turn them into generators to recharge the high-voltage battery when the vehicle is slowing or when the brakes are applied. The conventional brakes only operate at speeds below 15 MPH so that brakes last the life of the vehicle on a hybrid vehicle.

“I am a company service representative and travel a lot (about 40,000-50,000 miles a year).

I do not want to purchase a new vehicle because it would soon be out of warranty, and in his opinion, a waste of money. However, I am not comfortable trying to find a good used car because I do not know what to look for when inspecting a used vehicle. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks”.

Halderman: 

I think the best plan of action is to purchase a used vehicle that has been returned after three-year lease and is “certified” by the dealer and the factory. Being a certified used car, it has to meet stringent requirements and be free from any mechanical, body, or interior faults and be accident free (have a clean “Car Fax”).

Did you know that everyone drives a used vehicle? As soon as a new vehicle is driven out of the dealership, it is used and its value drops. Used vehicles including cars, trucks, and SUVs are less expensive to purchase, and if three years old, can often be purchased for half of what it cost when new.

Things to consider when purchasing a used vehicle include:

• A used vehicle often is sold as a certified used vehicle, especially those returned after a lease, and offered with a warranty that is often longer than the original factory warranty.
• Many high cost options are included at a fraction of their original cost and often at no additional cost at all. Therefore, if a potential vehicle buyer wants some or many of the high cost options, such as heated and cooled seats, navigation or radar cruise, backup camera, purchasing a used vehicle can be a wise decision.
• The selection is almost as good as, and often better, than purchasing a new vehicle. While this does not seem right, Automotive News stated that 95% of new vehicle purchases are made from the selection on the dealer’s lot. While purchasing used does not allow the buyer to select the exact vehicles and color wanted, often the selection is very good.

Most people cannot tell what year a vehicle is so if it is clean and well maintained, no one will know that it was purchased used. For those of us that like to keep as much of our hard-earned money as possible, purchasing a used vehicle is truly the wise choice.

“In a previous column, you mentioned how to dispose of used coolant but did not mention that it can harm pets if they swallow it. Is this an issue that you can address? Thanks.”

Halderman:

All antifreeze used in vehicles from the factory is ethylene glycol with about 3% additives.  This is mixed with about half de-mineralized water to create the coolant. You are correct that ethylene glycol is sweet tasting and animals, including dogs and cats, tend to want to drink it if left out in the open. Some antifreezes use propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol, which is not sweet tasting and is less harmful to animals if ingested. However, this type of coolant does not mix well with ethylene glycol and therefore the entire system has to be flushed completely before using. Also, some vehicle manufacturers do not recommend the use of propylene glycol coolant. Many states now require that all antifreeze/coolant have an agent added to make it bitter tasting so that animals will not drink it. As more states adopt this ruling, most antifreeze manufacturers are now adding this bitter ingredient to all their antifreeze so that it can be sold in all states. However, it is wise to dispose of coolant correctly and not leave it in an open container where pets and animals can get access.

April is car care month and this an excellent time of the year to get your vehicles ready for spring and summer driving.

Things that can be done yourself to take care of your vehicle include:

1. Wash the vehicle inside and out. This means cleaning the wheels and tires as well as the body and especially the glass. Use a glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth and clean both the inside and the outside of all of the glass. You will be amazed at how much haze and dirt will come off and how much better you can see especially at night when the windows are clean. If you want to spend more time, try using a glass polish to really make the glass shine. Want to get by without spending money? Try using old newspapers and windshield washer fluid to clean the windows. The newspaper is porous and helps clean the grime off the windows and the windshield washer fluid contains a small amount of alcohol that helps cut through the dirt and road film.
2. Wax or polish the vehicle. Wax protects paint, which is used to protect the steel, so by applying wax, you are protecting the finish of the vehicle. Besides a shiny vehicle always seems to run better than a dull vehicle. Want that really shiny appearance? Try using a clay bar product before waxing to remove road film and embedded dirt that is often found on the surface even after it has been washed. Clay bar can be purchased at most automotive parts stores or anywhere wax and polish are sold. Spray a small section with a spray-type polish or water from a spray bottle, and then just rub the clay lightly over the surface. The paint will feel smooth as glass after this is done and will provide a clean surface for the wax, resulting in a higher shine without too much additional work.
3. Check the tires. Check the tires for proper inflation pressure. The proper pressure for your tires is on a placard on the driver’s door. Do not forget to check the spare tire. Check the condition of the tires and the tread depth. If the tread is worn to less than 2/32 inch, the tires should be replaced. Many experts recommend that the tires be replaced if they have less than 4/32 inch of tread depth as wet traction really decreases when the tread is worn beyond that limit. Many vehicle manufacturers also recommend that tire be replaced that are older than six years old regardless of the tread depth remaining because rubber deteriorates over time.
4. Change the engine oil. Have the engine oil and oil filter replaced using the specified oil as indicated in the owner’s manual or shown on the oil fill cap on the engine.
5. Change the filters. There are two filters that should be changed regularly. The engine filter and the cabin filter. The cabin filter is located behind the glove compartment or is accessed from under the hood on some vehicles.

Doing these things to your vehicle now will improve the appearance and the functionality of your vehicle and help extend its life too. Enjoy.

“I have been a regular reader of your column for many years. I usually find your responses to be clear, explicit, and complete. I am an engineer and avid car mechanic. For years I’ve puzzled over the issue of whether or not to change out and/or flush the ATF in my cars that have automatic transmissions. I’ve received conflicting recommendations from owner’s manuals, transmission rebuilders, and automotive experts such as yourself. It helps me to be specific, so here are 3 scenarios:

1. Assume you own a new G20 Chevy van that is used almost exclusively for long trips out of town. No towing is done with this van. If you owned such a van, how frequently would you change out the ATF (mileage and/or time), and would you flush it? Or would you not bother to change out the ATF?

Now assume this same Chevy van already has over 100,000 miles on it, the ATF has never been changed since the van was new, and that these 100,000 miles were virtually all long distance freeway miles. What would you do with the ATF at this point?

2. Switch the scenario. You own a passenger car, a Saab 9-5 station wagon, where the miles put on it are about 50/50 between local trips around town of less than five miles, and longer trips that range from 25 miles to several hundred miles. If you owned this vehicle, what would you do concerning changing/flushing the ATF?
3. One more scenario, which may just confuse things. You own a 1998 Jaguar XJ8, which has a sealed automatic transmission, and the manufacturer says to never change or flush the ATF. What is your opinion on dealing with the ATF on this car?

Thanks in advance for your response.”

Halderman:

These are great questions.

1. The Chevy van with 100,000 should have the transmission fluid changed because GM says to at that mileage as long as you were not towing. Also be sure to use Dexron VI as this is has been the specified fluid to use in all General Motor vehicles since 2006 and is backward compatible meaning that it can be used in older GM vehicles too.
2. Regarding the Saab, I suggest that you replace the fluid regularly, such as every 30,000 miles. I change transaxle fluid on my vehicle every 30,000 miles and just drain and replace three quarts of fluid, drive the vehicle around the block, and change three more quarts. I notice an improvement every time I do this and the fluid looks clearer as well. Highly friction modified ATF will discolor faster than just friction-modified fluid, so don’t let the color itself be an indicator.
3. Regarding the Jaguar, I think I would check it at 50,000 miles and change it at 100,000 miles.

“I follow you on Facebook and I noticed that you attended several auto auctions in Scottsdale, Az. I have always wanted to go and maybe even purchase a neat car. What was your experience and what should a person do if they want to attend or to bid online or by phone?”

Halderman:

I attended five auto auctions during “automotive week” in Scottsdale, AZ. in January, including (alphabetical order):

• Barrett-Jackson– This is the big event and by far the largest with over 2,000 vehicles and ran from Tuesday through Sunday. A week’s pass just to attend was $150 and if you wanted to bid, there was an extra charge. Also, a letter of credit from your bank and other paper work is also needed if you intend to bid. Bidders are allowed to sit closer to the action.
• BONHAMS– This auction, held on the grounds of the Westin Kierland Resort and Spa, was small but a class act. Very high-quality vehicles, mostly antiques and European high-performance vehicles were presented. I saw a 1966 racing Ferrari sell for 8.55 million dollars. The auction house usually gets 10 percent from the buyer and 8 percent from the seller, which means that the auction house had an income of about one millions dollars from the sale of this one vehicle.
• Gooding and Company– Held at the Scottsdale Fashion Mall area, this smaller but high-quality auction had many rare and high-dollar vehicles. My favorite was a 1936 Auburn 852 SC Boat Tail Speedster. The estimated auction price was also very nice at $700,000-$850,000.
• RM Auction– Held on the grounds of the Biltmore Resort in Scottsdale, this was another high-class auction with mostly expensive and rare high-quality vehicles, with some at or near $100,000 to over $1,000,000 for several.
• Russo and Steels– Held in tents near the Barrett-Jackson auction site, this auction was smaller than Barrett-Jackson and had mostly what I would call “affordable” vehicles from about $1,000 to over $100,000.

I saw several people inspecting vehicles for bidders especially at the high-end auctions.  These vehicle-specific experts were then able to provide advice to their clients so that they could bid knowing everything there was about the vehicle. Some of the things that I saw included:

1. People using a paint thickness gauge on all painted surfaces. I asked one person who was checking a rare and high-valued Porsche what he found and he told me that he had already found out that the hood had been repainted. A repainted hood would have a thicker paint layer than if it were not repainted unless it was stripped down to bare metal and then totally refinished which takes a lot more time. He was checking further to see if he could determine if there were other “issues” that could affect the price that the bidder may be willing to spend.
2. Checking closely for flaws, such as one custom Mustang I saw at the Barrett-Jackson auction, it appeared that the parking lights were simply glued in instead of using a gasket and mechanical fasteners.
3. I saw paint on the rubber weather stripping around the front windshield and around the rear window. This meant that the car, in this case a Ferrari at the Gooding and Company auction, was repainted by simply using masking tape to seal around where paint is not to be sprayed instead of removing all of the chrome and glass and then painting the vehicle and re-installing all for the windows and chrome.
4. At the Barrett-Jackson auction, I saw some exhaust systems welded to the frame or to the rear bumper instead of using rubber “hangers” to support the exhaust pipes. By not using rubber hangers, engine and exhaust noises are transmitted directly to the frame of the vehicle.

The bottom line is attending these auctions is an awesome experience and well worth the trip for any automotive enthusiast. However, if you intend to purchase your “dream car” at any auction, be sure to have it checked out by a professional and always remember “buyer beware.”

“I purchased an in the cabin air filter for my 2004 Avalanche yesterday.  I took the cover off that goes over the fan and etc. under the dash on the passenger side.  Next I got a flashlight and started looking for the clip which must be released to open a long plastic door so the old filter can be taken out and the new one installed.  The only problem is I see no screws or a clip to release the door.  As best I can tell, I do not have a door to open and may not have an inside the cabin air filter?  I guess I am confused since the parts book at the auto parts store shows I have such an air filter.”

Halderman: 

This is a great question because I found many places where the filter is sold, including part numbers and prices on the Internet.  I checked service information and did not find any mention of where it is located.  However, I did discover a technical service bulletin (TSB) that mentioned that starting in 2003, due to the design of the instrument panel, a cabin air filter is no longer an option.  The term used by General Motors Corp. for this filter is “passenger compartment air filter.”  Therefore, even though you purchased a cabin air filter listed for your truck, it cannot be used because your vehicle does not have a filter for the cabin air.

When a cabin air filter is replaced depends on how dusty or dirty the driving conditions.  If the vehicle is being driven on dirt roads, replacing the filter every year may be wise.  For normal driving conditions, most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every two or three years.  For best results, use the style that was used in the vehicle when new.  For example, many vehicle manufacturers use a filter that has activated charcoal on the filter to trap odors and fumes.  Some less expensive replacement filters do not have this feature.  The filter that has charcoal is not cheap and goes for $30 to $50.

“How would one go about calculating the cost per mile of operating an electric automobile?

How would one determine the amount of electricity used on a trip?

If one had two or more electric cars, would that require multiple chargers?  Would you, personally, install a dedicated KWH meter on the primary side of each charger?”

Halderman:

Most electric vehicles such as the Nissan Leaf and Chevrolet VOLT, you will be asked to install a 220 volt charging station in the garage. Whether or not this will be tied to a separate meter I do not know, but I doubt it. There will likely be a plan where your electrical usage will be reduced at night to keep the cost down.

There are three types of chargers including:

1. Household 110-120 volt power connected to a standard outlet and to the vehicle using the newly established common connector as established by the Society of Automotive engineering (SAE). The standard (J1772) includes terminals for each of the anticipated voltages plus a communication line so that the charger or electrical grid can communicate with the vehicle. This type is called Level 1 type and can be used to recharge an electric vehicle in 12-16 hours or overnight.
2. A Level 2 type is a voltage level that could be used at home which uses 220-240 volts, which is the same as is used in electric stoves and clothes dryers. Using a Level 2 charging station, a typical electric vehicle can be recharged in 4 to 11 hours. To install a 220-240 volt charging station in your home could cost over two thousand dollars but may be included with the purchase of the vehicle or made available by the local electric company depending on your location.
3. Level 3 charging stations use 440-480 volts and are designed to fully charge an electric vehicle in 30 minutes or less. This type of charging station, because of the high voltage, will likely take the place of “gas stations” and use a trained attendant to help safe guard the process.

 

Wheels:

What would be the cost to recharge a typical electric vehicle and how would that compare to the cost of gasoline?

Halderman:

According to what I have read, the cost of electricity is determined from the formula that uses 33.7 kilowatt- hours being equal to one gallon of gasoline. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) states that the Nissan Leaf, a totally electric vehicle, is rated at 99 miles per gallon based on the formula and that the source of the electricity has to be produced and this could be likely from coal-fired or natural gas-fired power stations that produce emissions. The Chevrolet VOLT is rated at 93 miles per gallon using mostly electric battery power until the battery state- of -charge is reduced to about 30 percent and then the gasoline engine is started to keep the battery at that level. The battery must be re-charged from an electrical outlet.

Due to all of the valuables, it is hard to come with a cost  estimate, but one article I read says that in an electric vehicle, it will cost about three dollars to drive 100 miles compared to 12 dollars for gasoline in a vehicle getting 25 miles per gallon with gasoline costing  three dollars a gallon .

“I have a restored 1957 Chevrolet two-door hardtop with a 327 cu.in V-8 with three two-barrel carburetors. I put on high-performance mufflers and ever since then, I hear the engine crackle and pop  during deceleration. I have checked for vacuum leaks but did not find any. Any ideas on what I can do to stop this popping when I decelerate?”

Halderman:

The sound you are hearing is normal engine operation during deceleration and there is nothing you can do to cure it unless you replace the high-performance mufflers with stock units. The popping and crackle are often a desirable sound that many owners of high-performance vehicles want to hear. The sound is caused by the lean air-fuel mixture that occurs during deceleration. This air-fuel ratio burns so slowly that some of it is still burning as the mixture leaves the engines and enters the exhaust system. Most stock mufflers “buffer” this sound so it is not heard. However, when a low restriction exhaust system is installed, the result is that every sound in the exhaust system is heard.

An interesting note is that when fuel injection was added to engines in the early 1980s, the engine computer shuts off all fuel when the engine decelerates and therefore this sound of popping and crackling was not heard in the exhaust, even if a high-performance system was installed. Many enthusiasts did not like that so engineers now command the powertrain control module (PCM) to inject a small amount of fuel into the engine during deceleration so that the exhaust will have the gurgle sound.

“Could you advise me please? My brother bought a flooded Audi S4, 2012 model. I need to know procedures or guidelines on how to fix a flooded car. Is there a manual or web site for it? I just don’t want mechanics to mess up the car while fixing it. Thanks a lot in anticipation”.

Halderman:

Boy, oh boy. I hope he did not pay much for this car. When a vehicle is under water, even if it only came above the floor, many faults are likely to occur, mostly electrical.

If the water reached just the carpet, there are many electronic modules and wiring that are located along the side rails and under the center of the vehicle. These modules are not water-proof and are not designed to be exposed to water.   There could be 30 or more of these electronic control modules in this vehicle. All of the electronic modules will have to be replaced because even though electrical devices, such as the radio and power windows, may work shortly after the car is dried out, corrosion will eat away at the wiring and the connectors.

If the water got as high as the top of the dash, or if it was salt water, then everything electrical in the entire vehicle is ruined. About the only thing that can be done to get some of the “investment” back is to strip everything from the vehicle and sell the sheet metal parts. Even the engine, transmission, and wheel bearings will likely need to be replaced or an expensive overhaul will be needed because water gets into these components through the vents.

The car should have come with a title that indicates that it is a flood damaged vehicle so selling it will be either impossible or illegal. Long story short; a flood damaged vehicle will never be right again.

“To save money I have been doing more and more of my own car maintenance and repairs. One issue I keep running across involves jacking the car up to work under it. Both the car manual and Haynes Repair Manual advise using jack stands and not relying on the jack itself. However, both manuals only list the standard four jacking points (on the frame just behind the front wheels and just in front of the back wheels). How do you get a car up on jack stands if the jack already occupies the space the stand needs to be? Where else can you safely lift the front or back end? A search of the internet garnered only anecdotal stories, often specific to the kind of car they had and mentioning points I’m not familiar with. Is there some more general guidance? My car is a Nissan Maxima. Thanks”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Normally you place the jack under the vehicle in the center at the front or rear under the frame. Then when it has been lifted, the jack stands (also called safety stands) are placed at the corners where the owner’s manual shows. Then the jack is lowered. However your vehicle does not have a frame and instead uses the body for support of the major drive train components which makes placing a floor jack more difficult.

Another way is to lift the vehicle at the side placing the jack under the pinch weld seams at the center and lifting the entire side of the vehicle. You could do serious damage if you place the floor jack under the engine or transmission oil pan unless it is a structura. Determining if an area is strong enough to support the vehicle is difficult and if you are wrong can cost you many thousands of dollars of damage.

You are right that this is tough one to figure out even for a professional. I suggest you take your car to a shop and ask them to hoist it for you and then mark where you should place the jack. They will charge you for this but it will be less (I am sure) than fixing any damage that you may do if it is not placed correctly. It may be possible that you cannot use a floor jack so be prepared as what your next step would be. Ramps are possible but they are dangerous to use too.

“I always find your columns very interesting and hope you can answer this question concerning the calculation of the miles per gallon figure that appears on a new car’s sticker.  I have been told the mileage ratings on the sticker are calculated using gas that does not contain ethanol.  Is this correct?  If so, since most cars use gasoline containing ethanol, which gives poorer mileage, aren’t the ratings shown on the sticker misleading.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The fuel used is indolene which is a fuel with an octane rating of (R+M/2) of 92.25. Gasoline varies all over the country and is blended for each season. Winter blend gasoline has less BTU energy than summer grade fuel so the fuel economy is lower in the winter than in the summer. The calculations of fuel economy take into account the average of all of these blends and for the added ethanol based on averages around the country. While the added ethanol could be as high as 10%, it is usually a lot less even though the pump says that it can contain up to 10%.

“My wife has a 2012 Honda Fit with mpg indicator. I have noticed that while downshifting or coasting it maxes out at 80 mpg. I’m wondering if this is true.  In other words, does the computer shut off fuel flow to save gas?”

Halderman:

Yes, it sure does. Honda does many things to improve fuel economy. One is that they shut off the fuel injectors during deceleration and the another is that alternator charges too, but mostly when coasting so as to not draw power from the engine when it is propelling the car. Other items that Honda and other vehicle manufacturers do to improve fuel economy include:

• using low rolling resistant tires
• Specifying low viscosity engine oil such as SAE 0W-20 in many cases
• Using LED lighting to reduce the electrical load on the alternator.

Some vehicles are equipped with a robust starter and the engine computer will shut off the engine when the vehicle is stopped, and restart the engine when the driver releases the brake pedal. This system is commonly called a stop/start system.

“I took a friend’s car to Gatlinburg, TN, and it was equipped with an automatic transmission but it had a “manual” position labeled “M” on the gear selector instead of what I am used to with DRIVE and a 1 and 2 on the shifter display. I was descending a long grade coming down from New Found Gap and I was trying to slow the car using the gear selector so I did not overheat the brakes. Nothing seemed to happen when I selected the manual setting and I also noticed that there were levers or paddles on the steering column. What are these for and how do I use the manual setting?”

Halderman:

You are wise to try to use the gear selector when descending long grades to help avoid damage to your brakes, which can become overheated if kept applied on a long downhill road. For many vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, the following gear sections and their meanings include:

• Drive (D). The D position includes the overdrive ratios in most vehicles. If there is an overdrive shift mode, however, then D is used to provide all forward gears except overdrive. Use this position when driving on the highway.
• Third (3). In third position the transmission/transaxle will upshift normally to third gear but will not upshift to a higher gear. When the third position is selected while driving in a higher gear, the transmission will downshift into third if the vehicle speed is low enough to prevent the engine from being over-revved. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed when engine compression braking is needed.
• Second (2). The second position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending long grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and the engine speed is increased to provide engine compression braking. This gear selection is used for the gentle grades at a moderate vehicle speed.
• First (1 or Low). The first (or low) position is used for slowing the vehicle while descending steep grades. In this gear selection, the vehicle speed is controlled and engine compression braking is used to slow the vehicle. This gear selection is used for the steepest grades at the lowest possible speed.

With a newer vehicle with the manual setting, the gears can be selected using the shift paddles on the steering wheel. It usually defaults to the gear that is currently in when the manual setting is selected. Then to change from say 5^th to 4^th gear, depress the shift paddle once usually on the left side labeled with a larger minus (-) symbol.

The gear selected is usually displayed on the speedometer face so you can see what gear is currently being used. To select a lower gear, to help maintain a lower speed while descending a long grade, depress the shift paddle again. To sect a higher gear so the engine does less compression braking, depress the right side (+) shift paddle.  Usually, I have found that using second (2) or third (3) gear works the best and allows the vehicle to descend long grades without having to use the brakes. When the road levels out, move the gear selector back to “Drive” to allow fully automotive shifting.

NOTE: Some vehicles have shift paddles on both sides of the steering column and they are both labeled “+”. In this case, the gears are selected by depressing to increase the gear and paddle (either side) is pulled toward you to downshift to a lower gear. Always check the owner’s manual for the exact procedure to follow when using manual mode.

“A friend has a 2007 GMC Envoy, and low miles.  She took it to a dealer for a “free oil change” and about two days later, the OIL light came on.  Oil level is OK and they are driving it!  Oil light stays on. Any ideas or suggestion would be appreciated?”

Halderman:

Before I could answer, I got this e-mail:

“Oil light was on “amber”, not red.   Ah ha!!!  I said………..

“I asked what caused why they had the oil changed.   She said: “We always change at 3,000 miles!”  I asked if the oil light was on then.  Her Answer was “no”.   She asked; “why did it come on after the oil change?”. I told her the computer didn’t know the oil was changed.   I re-set Oil Life Monitor and life returned to normal.  I explained the system to her and told her to NOT change at 3,000 miles.  Too bad the GM dealer didn’t reset it”

It used to be common practice to have the oil changed every 3,000 miles or every three months whichever occurred first.   Today this has changed. Most vehicles are equipped with a maintenance reminder light that comes on when maintenance is needed.

The oil life monitor system used on General Motors Co. vehicles (GMC, Buick, Pontiac, Saturn, Chevrolet and Cadillac) use a computer program that keeps track of the following:

• Number of engine starts
• Miles driven
• Temperature of the outside air and engine(coolant) temperature
• Time the engine is running

Based in the program, the oil life monitor subtracts from 100% a percentage based on the conditions. For example, a cold start when the engine is at zero degrees might take 1% off the oil life for each start because cold starts are hard on engines and engine oil. Then a long trip at highway speed may only take off 0.1% because this type of operation is gentle on engine oil. The oil should be changed when it reaches close to the end of the oil life as displayed on the dash display or when the oil change light comes on.

Other vehicle manufactures also use an oil life monitor, but most use mileage alone for oil changes such as every 5,000 or 7,500 miles, depending on the make and model of vehicle.

Some vehicles have several levels of service required, such as level A (oil change only for example) or a B service (oil change and air filter replacements), or a C service (for more extensive service, such as brake fluid replacement and other services).

Regardless of the vehicle, be sure to ask that the maintenance reminder light is reset. For a complete list of the procedures to how to reset the lights for all makes and models visit my web site (https://jameshalderman.com) and click on “charts and specifications.” This chart is free and can be downloaded and printed for easy reference.

“I have a neighbor who goes outside and starts his truck every morning at 6:00 AM. I know this because when the engine starts, his headlights come on and they are pointed right at my bedroom window.  The truck runs until he leaves at 6:45, which means that the engine is running all that time. Last year, I talked to him and he said that his father always warmed up the engine before driving it and he has been doing it too. He even does it in warm weather because he says it is still outside all night and needs to be “woken up” before he drives it. I think it is a waste of gas. Is he right or am I right that today’s vehicles don’t have to be started and allowed to run before driving first thing in the morning.”

Halderman:

You are right Brian. While no one really likes to get into a cold vehicle, it is a waste of time and fuel to allow the engine to run before driving. Even vehicles that have a remote start feature limit the engine run time to ten minutes. The best and most efficient way to warm a vehicle to start and engine and fasten the seat belt.  By that time, the engine oil pressure has been established and the vehicle is ready to drive. Drive slowly for the first few miles, if possible, before entering a freeway and driving at highway speeds. This procedure also allows the transmission fluid and final drive fluid (differential, if equipped) to warm, whereas your neighbor’s truck has warmed just the engine.

“I am the sole owner of a 2008 Camry with 128,000 miles on it. It is in seemingly great condition, as I have maintained it with great care, with regular oil changes (4,000-5,000 miles) and all the other routine maintenance requirements. But since new tires were installed, my fuel economy has decreased 12-15%. I mentioned this to my local Toyota dealership (who does most of my maintenance) and they said that without the “Check Engine” light illuminating (it’s not), there’s nothing they can do. I did notice some mild engine surge at idle a month or 2 ago, but that stopped and has not reoccurred. Do you have any ideas?  Am I being too “anal” over “normal” fuel economy fluctuations?”

Halderman:

With your history with the vehicle, it appears that something happened and that could be a few things including:

1. The tires are very good, but may not be low rolling resistance (LRR) type tires.
2. Double check that the inflation pressure is as specified on the driver’s door placard.

NOTE: The advice from a Goodyear engineer is, “The tires could be some of it. Worn tires give the least rolling resistance so depending on what the old tires were, there could be 2 mpg between old, low rolling resistance”.

3. It is normal for fuel economy to drop in cold weather due to the change to winter-blend gasoline and the colder temperatures making any engine use fuel to achieve normal operating temperature.

“I am a company service representative and travel a lot (about 40,000-50,000 miles a year). I really don’t want to purchase a new vehicle because it would soon be out of warranty and in my opinion, a waste of money. However, I am not comfortable trying to find a good used car because I don’t know what to look for when inspecting a used vehicle. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks”.

Halderman:

Did you know that everyone drives a used vehicle? As soon as a new vehicle is driven out of the dealership, it is used and its value drops. Used vehicles including cars, trucks, and SUVs are less expensive to purchase and if three years old, can often be purchased for half of what it cost when new. I think the best plan of action is to purchase a used vehicle that was returned after three-year lease and is “certified” by the dealer and the factory. Being a certified used car, it has to meet stringent requirements and be free from any mechanical, body, or interior faults and be accident free (have a clean “Car Fax”).

Things to consider when deciding whether or not to purchase a used vehicle include:

• A used vehicle often is sold as a certified used vehicle, especially those returned after a lease and offered with a warranty that is often longer than the original factory warranty.
• Many high cost options are included at a fraction of their original cost and often at no additional cost at all. Therefore, if a potential vehicle buyer wants some or many of the high cost options, such as heated and cooled seats, navigation or radar cruise, backup camera, then purchasing a used vehicle is a wise decision.
• The selection is almost as good as, and often better, than purchasing a new vehicle. While this does not seem right, Automotive News stated that 95% of new vehicle purchases are made from the selection on the dealer’s lot. While purchasing used does not allow the buyer to select the exact vehicles and color wanted, often the selection is very good.

Most people cannot tell the year a vehicle so if it is clean and well maintained, no one will know that it was purchased used. For those of us that like to keep as much of our hard-earned money as possible, purchasing a used vehicle is truly the wise choice.

“I am thinking of buying a new car but I am skeptical of stop- start technology. Can it be turned off?”

Halderman:

Sometimes. Some vehicles equipped with a stop-start system can be turned off using a button on the dash or center stack.  Stop-start systems are designed to increase fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions. Fuel economy and the reduction of CO₂ emissions are estimated to be 5 to 10 percent, depending on the vehicle and how it is being operated. With stop-start mechanism, the engine is stopped when the vehicle is stopped at traffic signals or in stop and go traffic conditions to reduce the fuel consumption. Therefore, whether or not the feature can be turned off depends on if the systems is needed to meet the mandated fuel economy and/or emission standards. If it can meet the standards without being actuated, it can be turned off. However, the button usually has to be pushed every time the vehicle is started as it often defaults to on.

Various vehicle manufacturers refer to stop-start systems using different terms including:

• Auto Stop
• Stop-Start
• Idle-Stop
• Smart Stop
• Intelligent Stop and Go
• Auto Start/Stop
• Engine Stop-Start (ESS)
• Start-Stop

This being Earth Week, do you have any ideas or suggestions about what the average vehicle owner can do to reduce emissions?

Halderman:

Whenever thinking about what we can or should be doing, I try to keep some basics in mind such as:

1. Energy costs will likely increase over time.
2. Vehicles will likely get smaller in reaction to government mandated fuel economy and emissions regulations.

With these principles in mind, I feel that some of the things we can do to reduce our “carbon footprint“ (carbon fuel usage and emissions) is to try to do some or all of the following:

• Drive less when possible by carpooling or combining several short trips into one to reduce fuel usage.
• Slow down. Driving at or below the speed limit increases fuel economy and reduces emissions.
• Purchase a more fuel efficient vehicle. This often means purchasing a smaller vehicle and this can be an issue if a larger vehicle is needed regularly. However, if a larger vehicle is only needed a few times a year, such as pulling a trailer or going on a vacation, consider renting a larger vehicle for that short time thereby saving fuel by using the smaller vehicle the rest of the year.
• Consider purchasing a hybrid electric or electric vehicle. While the fuel savings may take over 80,000 miles before the extra cost is recovered by the improved fuel economy, this is one way to get improved fuel economy from the size vehicle that is needed.
• Consider purchasing an alternative fuel vehicle. Vehicles that can use E85 (85% ethanol and 10% gasoline) are the most commonly available vehicles that can use an alternative fuel. While E85 costs less per gallon than gasoline, unfortunately, using E85 does reduce fuel economy and is often difficult to find in many areas.
• Consider an electric or an extended range electric vehicle. Purchasing an electric vehicle such as a Nissan Leaf may be a good choice but another vehicle will be needed for trips longer than about 70 miles. An extended range electric vehicle, such as the Chevrolet Volt, would greatly reduce the use of gasoline usage and can be driven up to about 40 miles on electric alone. However, the cost of both of these vehicles is higher than a conventional gasoline powered vehicle making the payback period about as long as a hybrid electric vehicle.
• Fleet operators should consider using vehicles that can use compressed natural gas (CNG) as a logical way to reduce our dependence on oil. While some vehicles are available to purchase that operate on CNG, there are very few locations where the fuel is available because most are restricted to private access only (fleet or government use).

“I am in the market for a new car for my wife and maybe a new or newer pickup truck for me. I have read many car reviews and while they are helpful, they use terms such as “they took the money out of the interior” that can be confusing to new-car purchasers. Can you help by putting some of the terms used by car reviewers into plain English?

Thanks”.

Halderman:

Some of the terms used and their “plain English” definition includes:

1. Touch points– this refers to places where your hands touch parts of the interior such as the steering wheel, controls, door handle and dash. It can also include inside the door or seat pockets. More expensive vehicles use leather or leather-like materials for these touch points whereas lower cost vehicles often use hard plastic. If they “took money out” of the vehicle, this usually means that the model is using harder plastics that do not feel as good as more expensive interior materials.
2. Has low-speed torque and high-speed power– This means that the vehicle can accelerate rapidly from low speeds as well as high speeds. Often vehicles equipped with small engines seem to accelerate normally at lower speeds, but often are not able to accelerate well at higher speeds due their lack of power. Of course this is normal for vehicles that are designed to achieve high fuel economy.
3. Double door seals– Many vehicles today are equipped with double and sometimes even triple door seals. This means that there is a weather-strip seal attached to the door itself and another attached to the body. When the door closes, these two seals work together to not only keep rain out but also road noise.
4. Noise control- The control of noise is very expensive and can include sound deadening material as well as acoustical glass (usually thicker) and multiple door seals. All of these add weight and money so a low priced vehicle will likely have more road noise than a high-priced vehicle.

I asked Jimmy Dinsmore, our resident vehicle reviewer for WHEELS for his input and he added these terms:

Handling – How the car feels and performs with hands on the steering wheel, specifically on turns.

Feel – More of an impression, but if it’s an SUV, does it drive like a truck or more like a car. Does it “feel” big or small? Feel goes hand in hand with handling.

Fit and finish – More of an antiquated industry term, still used sometimes. It speaks of the exterior of the vehicle. It basically means how well assembled the parts are and how well each of the parts fit together.

Thanks Jimmy.

“This fall, when it got cold, an orange or amber warning light came on that looks like a horseshoe. After driving the car for a few miles, the light went out and stayed out for the rest of the day. I have had warning lights come on before but nothing that looks like a horseshoe. I tried to tighten my gas cap and that has worked for me in the past. However, the next morning the horseshoe light came on again. What do you think this is and what is wrong with my car?”

Halderman:

The “horseshoe” shaped dash warning light represents a tire and the warning light is used to notify the driver of a tire that has low inflation pressure. All passenger vehicles since 2007 have been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that will light a dash light to warn the driver of a tire that has lost inflation pressure by 25% of the recommended pressure as stated on the driver’s door placard. What likely happened was that when the temperature dropped, the pressure inside the tire decreased because as the temperature and pressure are related. A drop in temperature of 10 degrees will cause the tire pressure to drop 1 PSI.

Therefore, check the inflation pressure of all of the tires, including the spare with a full-size spare tire is used because many SUVs use a tire pressure sensor in the spare as well as in each of the four tires on the ground. If one tire continues to lose inflation pressure, ask a professional serviced technician to find the root cause and get it corrected to keep the light out.

For a free chart that can be downloaded showing all of the dash warning symbols with their meaning, visit www.jamesahalderman.com

“I understand that there is a new synthetic anti-freeze.  What can you tell me about using this product? Why would it be advertised as new?  Is there a new synthetic type?  Are there any advantages to using the “new” product?”

Halderman:

It is called marketing. Ethylene glycol is a synthetic so there is nothing new. Anti-freeze coolant is a mixture of ethylene glycol (about 47%) and de-mineralized water (50%) and 3% additives.. Use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. The types of coolants (antifreeze and water) include:

• Inorganic additive technology (IAT) coolants are conventional coolants that have been used for over 50 years. The color of an IAT coolant is green. Phosphates in these coolants can cause deposit formation if used with hard water (i.e., water with high mineral content). The use of IAT coolants in new vehicles was phased out in the mid-1990s.

• Organic acid technology (OAT) coolants contain ethylene glycol, but do not contain silicates or phosphates. The color of this type of coolant is usually orange. DEXCOOL, developed by Havoline, is just one brand of OAT coolant, which has been used in General Motors vehicles since 1996

• Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) is a newer variation of OAT. An HOAT coolant is similar to the OAT- type antifreeze as it uses organic acid salts (carboxylates) that are not abrasive to water pumps. HOAT coolants can be green, orange, yellow, gold, pink, red, or blue.
• Universal coolants are usually HOAT coolants with extended life and are low-silicate and phosphate-free. They can be used in many vehicles, but cannot meet the needs of engines requiring a silicate-free formulation.
• Premixed coolant is a coolant that is mixed with the proper percentage of water and is ready for use. The water is demineralized and therefore does not include chlorine and other possible chemicals that could cause damage to the cooling system. Toyota and Honda are two vehicle manufacturers that specify the use of premixed coolant only.

“Since turbochargers can operate at much higher rpm than the accompanying engines, how much of a risk is overheating after engine shut down?

I see that some high performance cars (for example, Alfa Romeo’s 4C) come with an “after-run pump” to cool down the turbo following shut down. On normal turbo cars (e.g., Chevy Cruze Diesel or Chevy Malibu Turbo), do you suggest letting the car idle for a minute or so to let the turbo slow down and cool off before shutting down?  Is synthetic oil a must for turbo-equipped cars? Thanks.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. As you may be aware, older engines that had turbochargers were known for coking the oil (turning it to tar) and it was advised to keep the engine running at idle speed for about a minute if it had been accelerated rapidly. Today, several things have changed including:

1. The turbocharger bearings are now cooled by coolant being circulated around the bushings as well as cooled and lubricated by the engine oil (this was not the case in older turbocharged engines).
2. The oil specified today, such as dexos, is designed to meet the needs of turbocharged engines. While dexos oil specifications do not indicate which base oil is used, it almost HAS to be a synthetic. There are three groups of synthetics (Group II, IV and V) and I believe that the specified oil has to use at least a Group III base stock. See “Engine Oil Update” Power Point on my website. Go to www.jameshalderman.com and then click on “Jim’s Stuff” and click on “Conference Power Points” and select “Engine Oil Update”.

I think that Alfa Romeo is being very conservative and want to make sure that the turbocharger bushings are kept lubricated under all conditions. As always, vehicle owners should always follow the manufacturers’ recommended products such as engine oil and coolant, and maintenance intervals.  I hope this helps.

“I am seeing a new type of auto battery on shelves now with the AGM designation. I know what an AGM battery is but, are they worth the extra cost?  I’m seeing AGM batteries for about $20 to $25 more than a standard lead acid battery? Is the AGM in actual use better to use in vehicles?”

Halderman:

I think they are worth it. They last 7 to 10 years compared to 3 to 5 years for a standard battery. They need a special charger that limits the charging voltage to about 14.5 volts because the higher voltage of a conventional charger can be 16 volts or higher. I purchase the Optima red top myself.

The acid used in an absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery is totally absorbed into the separator between the lead plates, making the battery leak proof and spill proof.

The battery is assembled by compressing the cell about 20%, then inserting it into the container. The compressed cell helps reduce damage caused by vibration and helps keep the acid tightly against the plates. The sealed maintenance-free design uses a pressure release valve in each cell. Unlike conventional batteries that use a liquid electrolyte, called flooded cell batteries, most of the hydrogen and oxygen given off during charging remains inside the battery. The separator or mat that is placed between the plates is only 90% to 95% saturated with electrolyte, thereby allowing a portion of the mat to be filled with gas. The gas spaces provide channels to allow the hydrogen and oxygen gases to recombine rapidly and safely. Because the acid is totally absorbed into the glass mat separator, an AGM battery can be mounted in any direction. Absorbed glass mat batteries are used as standard equipment in some vehicles, such as the Chevrolet Corvette and in most Toyota hybrid electric vehicles, as their auxiliary (12 volt) battery used to power the lights and accessories.

“My father owns a 2009 Pontiac Vibe 4-cylinder with only 25,000 miles on it, which he purchased new.  He states that sometime after the first 5,000 miles, he noticed water coming out of his exhaust pipe and notices water in his garage underneath where the car is parked. He has also noticed a hole rusted in his muffler.  He has asked the Pontiac dealer several times what could be causing this, but gets a different answer each time.  I suspect they are giving him the run around and he gets tired of asking.  Could you advise what could be causing this and what he should do about it?  One of the answers he received from the dealer was that he doesn’t drive the car enough.”

Halderman:

I would tend to agree with the dealer that the vehicle is not being driven very far.  Every gasoline engine creates about 1 gallon of water for every gallon of gasoline that is burned.  Normally, this water is in the form of water vapor and is not visible.  However, if the vehicle is not driven enough to fully warm the exhaust system, then the water vapor condenses in the cool exhaust system creating the water that you see dripping from the tailpipe.  The “rusted hole” in the muffler is actually a drilled hole to allow any condensed water to escape so that it does not cause the muffler to rust.  To summarize, there is nothing wrong with the vehicle and everything you mentioned is normal.  It would help to drive the vehicle about 20 miles or more once in a while to help evaporate any water that is still in the exhaust system.

“I am very confused as to whether I should have all the fluids changed in my car. I have a 2004 Honda Accord with 60,000 miles on it. Money, or the lack of it, is a tremendous concern to me so I do not want to do anything not completely necessary. On the other hand, I must drive this car for many years to come. Please give me an opinion.”

Halderman:

I would recommend that all fluids be replaced according to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended intervals as stated in the owner’s manual. Your vehicle is now eleven years old and the following fluids are usually recommended to be changed:

1. Automatic transmission fluid
2. Engine coolant
3. Brake fluid

At this age and mileage, the timing belt (if equipped) is usually recommended to be changed. While this can be expensive, the coolant, water pump, and accessory drive belts are also replaced at this time. If these operations are performed now, your vehicle will be properly prepared for many more miles and years of service.

“I am looking to downsize my daily driver yet I want to retain some passenger carrying capacity and still be able to carry groceries home. I see the specifications for the vehicles I am looking at but can you help me by providing some sort of guidelines that might help me select a small vehicle that can still be useful?”

Halderman:

As you are finding out, it is difficult to visualize the size of the vehicle from the specifications alone. The best approach is to actually see and test drive each vehicle that you are considering.

Some guidelines include:

Trunk– From my experience, I think that 8 cu. ft. is about as small as you should select to be practical with most full size cars having 12 cu. ft. to 14 cu. ft. of trunk space. A car with 20 cu ft. is a huge trunk and not likely to be used to its full extent.

Interior space (volume) – Here is the vehicle size class as defined by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) who uses this information to rate similar vehicles for fuel economy comparison purposes. The volume is a combination of the interior volume in cubic feet and the trunk volume, both in cubic feet (cu. ft.) together.  Subtract the trunk volume from the total interior volume to determine the volume of the interior alone.

Mini-compact– less than 85 cu. ft.

Sub-compact-85-99 cu. ft.

Compact– 100-109 cu. ft.

Mid-size– 110-119 cu. ft.

Large– 120+ cu. ft.

Vehicles within the same class may not look or feel the same as the interior volume could include space over the dash or behind the rear seat, which could make the interior look and feel cramped, whereas another vehicle within the same class may actually feel much larger.

Length and width – I use this information because I want some room in my garage to get around. If the vehicle is longer than about 200 inches in length, then it a very long vehicle. I prefer a vehicle that is less than 190 inches long so it is easier to park. Width makes a vehicle feel small or roomy so a car that is over 72 inches wide will tend to feel roomy, whereas if it is less than 69 inches, it is likely to feel small or cramped.

“One thing that bothers me about my 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche is it seems like I am having a high repair rate on it. I am concerned that all it is going to do is get worse.  What do you think?  I thought about looking at Toyota’s?  I hear they are excellent trucks. I personally like how Dodge trucks look but I hear they are very high maintenance? The Fords have the best ratings except the last Ford truck I owned had a fuel pump that was terribly noisy from an electrical and RF standpoint making it very difficult to use my ham radio equipment.

Basically, I am trying to decide if it is better to keep what I have now and just take the maintenance hits or look at something newer? I just don’t know.

What advise could you give me?

Thanks as always. I too read a lot and try to research how well each vehicle holds up.From my research and also looking at consumer reports it looks like this for trucks: 1) Ford2) Toyota3) Chevy4) Dodge I also have subscribed to the notion that the cheapest vehicle you can own is the oneyou already have even if you are still paying on it as I am. However with that said theycomes a point where the constant maintenance repairs just keep adding up to much. But where is that point?”

Halderman:

Good question. Regarding whether to trade or keep your old vehicle is a hugely personal thing. You are correct that the from a money point-of-view, you are almost always better off keeping the vehicle you have. New vehicles always decrease in value and therefore, this has to be a consideration.
I look at all of the options and get as much of what I call “product knowledge” as possible. This means going to dealers and test driving each and every one of possible vehicles. You may not like how a vehicle feels or the seats etc. I know of one person who did not purchase a vehicle because he was not able to lift his morning coffee from the cup holder easily. That has nothing to do with the truck, but that was important to him. For example I sat in one vehicle that I thought was a possible vehicle for me but I rejected it due to the low seating position. I loved the looks, but the seats did not fit me. Should you buy a new or newer truck or keep the one you own now? I cannot answer that. You will have to do a lot of soul searching to decide what works best for you.
Have fun looking around.

“I am seeing a lot of cars on the lots at dealerships and used car lots, but it appears that the prices are not coming down. Why not? I thought it was the basic economics that if there is a lot of supply, then prices should go down”.

Halderman:

You are correct that inventory levels are higher now than normal due to slightly slower sales of new vehicles. What you are seeing locally may just be your local area. Normal inventory level is a sixty-day supply of vehicles on dealer lots. That is a lot of vehicles because according to Automotive News, about 95 percent of buyers purchased vehicles from the inventory on a dealership lot. Only about 5 percent order a vehicle that meets their needs.

Sales are also hard to estimate because it often depends on weather and other factors that are hard for vehicle manufacturers to predict. For example, a hard and cold winter often causes new and used car sales to drop. You are correct that if a vehicle is in inventory for longer than 60-90 days, dealers will often reduce the price so that it sells. There are many online resources to choose from when looking at a new or used vehicle. When comparing vehicles from different dealers, make sure that they are similarly equipped. Most brands of vehicles come in three or more “trim levels.“  The higher the trim level, the more standard equipment is included in the package, and the higher the price. Besides trim level, another factor that affects the price of the vehicle is the color. At dealer auctions, I have seen the same vehicle bring several hundred dollars less or more depending on the color. Therefore, there is no real answer to your question. It really does depend on many factors and the wise vehicle shoppers should research what they need and want before visiting a dealer or private owner.

“What is it about fuel gauges?  It seems that with my previous and current vehicles that the gauge stays on full or above half for a long time, and then it drops rapidly to empty.  Why is this happening?  Is the fuel gauge really that inaccurate?”

Halderman:

Great question.  I too have noticed this with almost every vehicle.  I recall a conversation I had with an engineer who worked for a domestic luxury brand manufacturer.  His job was to calibrate the fuel gauge for a new display that showed gallons remaining instead of a needle.  He told me that he spent many hours being sure that the fuel sender unit accurately measured the fuel remaining in the tank.  When the tank was full, the display showed the number of gallons in the tank.  If I recall, the number was 19 gallons.  Then when one gallon was used (in about 15 miles), the display changed to 18 gallons.  When the tank was empty, the display read zero.

As soon as the vehicle came out customer complaints started to flow in regarding two concerns:

1. Poor fuel economy
2. Customers running out of fuel

Apparently, the general public does not like to see a very accurate fuel gauge because they are used to the older, less accurate gauges and expect the same readings.  As a result of the complaints, the engineer recalibrated the fuel gauge to be less accurate by doing the following:

1. Instead of displaying each gallon, the display shows full until over 3 gallons are used.  This change stopped all of the poor fuel economy complaints.

2. Instead of running out of fuel when the fuel gauge read zero gallons, the display is “recalibrated” to show zero gallons when there are still 3 gallons remaining.

As a result of these changes, the fuel gauge now reads similar to all others I have seen.

• The gauge remains on “FULL” for many miles.
• It slowly drops to half
• After it reaches half, the gauge seems to drop fast because it has to reach the empty mark way before the  tank is actually empty
• The “low fuel” warning message or light comes on when there is still enough fuel to locate a station (about 40-50 miles but I have not tested this range for fear of running out of fuel).

Therefore Beth, you are right – the fuel gauges are designed to show what the customer expects to see rather than what is actually being measured.

“I appreciated your recent article on the use of proper fuels in new cars. Do you have much experience with small engines, such as Tecumseh and Briggs & Stratton that are used on walk behind lawn mowers? My last two mowers (one of each engine) no longer have manual chokes and specify the use of 87 octane gasoline. With both mowers, I have had great problems starting them (10 – 20 pulls) on their supposed “guaranteed start with one or two pulls” of starter cord. Returning the mowers to the point of purchase dealers for correction has resulted in only handling fees, disruption and delay in my mowing cycle. The dealer’s response to the supposed cause for not promptly starting is the use of regular (87 octane) gas. I always have used new, fresh 87 octane gas, but have been told instead to only use premium gas because it has better starting qualities. Previous to these mowers, I never had any trouble starting mowers by pushing the manual bulb chokes when using regular gas. Is there anything you can suggest to improve starting without the purchase of premium gas or additives? Calls to Tecumseh and Briggs & Stratton have resulted in nothing of use.  Thanks for all your useful auto articles and my hope for the small engine cure”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. You are correct that there is a lot of misunderstanding out there. One of the reasons that many lawn mower shops recommend the use of premium is that they often backfire when being shut off and this is reduced, but not cured by using premium. Another issue that may or may not be your issue is that gasoline has a “shelf life” of three months (90 days). This means that for best performance from gasoline, it should be used within three months of purchase. What happens is that the “light ends” (most volatile) parts of the fuel tend to evaporate which would make the mower harder to start. If you are purchasing five gallons of fuel at a time, consider using a smaller 2 gallon gas container to help make sure that the gasoline is fresh. I suggest that you use a gasoline stabilizer in all of the gas being used for small equipment.

“Will using 100 octane aviation fuel cause any harm to my 1917 Model T and 1929 Model A Fords, my portable generator, lawn mower, and other yard equipment?  It seems to be excellent in the Fords.  Because of ethanol in gas at the pump, I have had problems in the past.  I am a fan of yours, and trust your advice”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Aviation fuel is not designed to be used in automobile engines. Aviation fuel is designed for aircraft and is not blended for cold starts and other normal conditions experienced by engines being operated at sea level or close to sea level. As a result, I would not recommend using it in any street vehicle or in any lawn and garden equipment engines.  While there is ethanol in most gasoline today, most experts recommend the use of a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil®. They even have a new product, which I have not tried, that is designed to be used all of the time. Some points to keep in mind:

• Ethanol is not normally a concern unless the fuel is not used on a regular basis and it combines with the moisture in the air. When the ethanol in the gasoline combines with moisture in the air, it becomes heavier than the gasoline and sinks to the bottom of the fuel tank. This is called “phase separation”.
• The “shelf life” of any gasoline is 90 days. All fuel should be used or treated if it can’t be used within 90 days.

I would recommend regular or premium grade unleaded gasoline purchased from a busy station to help insure that fresh gas is being purchased.

“I have been discussing gasoline with a friend and he says that name brand gasoline is better and that I should always use premium because it is more highly refined. I say that all gasoline comes from the same tank so buy gas where it is cheapest and use regular, and not premium in most cars. Who is right? Thanks.”

Halderman:

You are Ron. Gasoline is “fungible” meaning that if it meets specifications, such as 87 octane regular, then it is interchangeable with any other 87 octane gasoline. Once the gasoline is made, it is sent to distributors. This is where the additives are added including dyes for each brand of gasoline. So while the gasoline itself is the same, the additives can and do make a difference. Try to use “Top Tier” gasoline. For a list of stations that include an extra amount of engine cleaning additives, visit www.toptiergas.com.

Regarding the use of “premium”, compared to”regular”, the only difference is the octane rating. Most vehicles are designed to operate on regular. However, some vehicles may “recommend” premium whereas others “require” premium. If the owner’s manual recommends premium or midgrade (plus), then regular can be used. However, if premium is required, then only premium should be used to prevent possible engine damage.

Can you provide some advice on this ‘new’ gasoline as to what vehicles NOT to use it in? I have an ’05 Subaru with the turbo engine requiring high test gas, a ’99 Mercury Grand Marquis and a 1989 Ford Van with the 302 EFI engine plus a tractor with a 24HP Honda specifying only 10% ethanol.

Halderman:

The “new” gasoline that Don is referring to is the use of 15% ethanol in gasoline, called E15, instead of the usual 10% , called E10, which has been used in gasoline for many years. The recent approval by the environmental protection agency (EPA) is schedule to be implemented in the next year.

The use of E15 will be limited to 2007 and newer vehicles when it becomes available. Therefore, you should not use it in any of your vehicles. If you wish to use ethanol enhanced fuels, I suggest that you purchase a vehicle that is designed to operate on E85 called a flex-fuel vehicle. The option cost is often zero or is a low cost option and these vehicles have a more robust fuel system.

Wheels: 

What is the advantage of E15?

Halderman:

The main advantage of increasing the amount of ethanol used in gasoline is to reduce the amount of imported oil. Ethanol is made from corn and other renewal resources and therefore the higher percentage of ethanol used means less petroleum is being used.

Wheels:

What are the disadvantages of using E15?

Halderman:

The disadvantages include:

1. Reduced fuel economy. This is because ethanol contains less heat energy compared to gasoline and as a result the fuel economy will be slightly lower when using E15 compared to E10.

Ethanol is corrosive to many metals and rubber products used in older (older than 2007) vehicles and therefore the use of E15 is not recommended.

“I’ll admit that I don’t know a whole lot about E85.  My friend’s mom apparently accidentally put 1/2 tank of it in her 2003 Ford Focus and the local shop says she needs a lot of work for a lot of money to fix this.  My suggestion was draining the fuel tank, replacing the fuel filter, and running a bottle of Techron.  Is there much risk of any other damage?  Injector O-rings perhaps?”

Halderman:

E85 is fuel that contains 85percent ethanol (ethyl alcohol) and 15 percent gasoline. This fuel should not be used in a vehicle that is not designated a “flex-fuel” vehicle. I do not think there is any chance of damage, but the fuel shown be used up and replaced with gasoline as soon as possible. I suggest that the vehicle be driven on the highway to avoid idling as much as possible to use the fuel. Then add gasoline as often as possible to help reduce the percentage of alcohol in the fuel. All gasoline powered vehicles today are designed to operate on E10 (10 percent ethanol) without any harm and your friend’s mom only put in a half a tank so it is closer to being about 40 percent  instead of 85 percent. The main problem of using a high level of alcohol is drivability issues such as hard starting and rough engine operation. I checked with several automotive instructors from Southern Illinois University because they have a lot of experience with E85 in their part of the country. All told me that the vehicle will not be harmed if the fuel is used up as soon as possible. Over time, the E85 could absorb moisture from the air and start causing corrosion problems but this should not occur if the fuel is used up in a few days.

“I filled up my truck on Thursday and I saw a few cars filling up with E85 gas in cars that appeared to be in vehicles that are not made for E85. It was priced a lot less than regular gasoline. This made me wonder what does happen to these cars. Would the car fail to run, fail to start, ruin the engine? “

Halderman:

The vehicles may have been able to use E85 because not all vehicles that can use E85 are labeled “flex-fuel.”  Some flex fuel vehicles only have a small emblem on the side or rear of the vehicle while others only state that the vehicles can use E85 by looking at the under hood emission control sticker.

I have had students do the same because E85 was cheaper and had a higher octane rating. However, it will make the engine almost impossible to start when cold. It will also run lean making the engine stumble and may stall. I told my students to just drive it and top off the tank with regular gas every 50 miles or more to try to get the tank back to gasoline. I doubt it would hurt the engine, but it will not run right and the fuel economy will be about 20 percent lower. For example, a Chevrolet pickup truck that is EPA rated at 15 MPG in the city and 20 MPG on the highway using gasoline is rated at 11 MPG in the city and 15 MPG on the highway using E85.

“With the approaching boating season, I am concerned about using gasoline that contains up to 10% ethanol. My boats as well as most boats out there were never designed to run on ethanol. The way this alcohol-blended fuel attracts water and destroys fuel systems and sometimes engines is a real concern. Since I do not live near a marina that sells ethanol-free fuel I must buy from local gas stations. Is there an additive that will protect my marine engine as well as my lawn mower from the corrosive effects of ethanol?

I will look for your response in the Dayton Daily News’ Wheels section of the Saturday paper.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Using gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol should not be a concern if certain precautions are taken. You are correct that ethanol can and does absorb moisture and when that happens, the mixture drops to the bottom of the fuel tank. Then if this water/alcohol mix is drawn into the engine, the engine will not run correctly and may not even start. Ethanol is not as corrosive as methanol which is highly corrosive and not usually added to gasoline. Ethanol is the same alcohol found in beer, wine and distilled spirits and is “denatured” usually using gasoline to make it undrinkable. Here are some things you can do to help avoid potential problems:

1. Always purchase fuel from a busy station to help insure that the fuel is fresh and has not been in underground tank for a long period. The life of gasoline is generally considered to be 90 days unless treated.
2. Use a fuel stabilizer in every tank to help prevent the phase separation which is what occurs when water and alcohol mix and the then drops to the bottom of the tank. Always follow the instructions on the container and do not use more or less than the specified amount.
3. At the end of the season, I recommend keeping the tank full of treated fuel which prevents air and moisture from entering the fuel tank.
4. Start every season with fresh and treated fuel.

“I have worked on cars all my life. I understand that oil companies make fuel less volatile in the summer and more volatile in winter months to compensate for the temperature. I am not sure what to think when I see information at the gas station that says, “Nitrogen enriched” or “v-power “additives added. Look forward to hearing from you.”

Halderman:

Good question. The short answer is marketing. The additives used have long names so the gasoline companies use short words or phrases to indicate that the gas they sell has the additives that benefit the engine. Dye is usually added to gasoline at the distributor to help identify the grade and/or brand of fuel. In many countries, fuels are required to be colored using a fuel-soluble dye. In the United States and Canada, diesel fuel used for off-road use and not taxed is required to be dyed red for identification. Gasoline sold for off-road use in Canada is dyed purple.

Ethanol, also called ethyl alcohol is drinkable alcohol and is usually made from grain. Adding 10% ethanol (ethyl alcohol or grain alcohol) increases the (R +M) /2 octane rating by three points. The alcohol added to the base gasoline, however, also raises the volatility of the fuel about 0.5 PSI. Most automobile manufacturers permit up to 10% ethanol if drivability problems are not experienced. The oxygen content of a 10% blend of ethanol in gasoline, called E10, is 3.5% oxygen by weight.

Top-tier gasoline is gasoline that has specific standards for quality, including enough detergent to keep all intake valves clean. Four automobile manufacturers, including BMW, General Motors, Honda, and Toyota, developed the standards. Top-tier gasoline exceeds the quality standards developed by the World Wide Fuel Charter (WWFC) that was established in 2002 by vehicle and engine manufacturers. The gasoline companies that agreed to make fuel that matches or exceeds the standards as a top-tier fuel include ChevronTexaco and ConocoPhillips.

“I follow your column weekly in the DDN ‘Wheels’ section.  In a previous column, a reader asked about the problem of using modern unleaded 93 octane premium in his late-60s high-compression muscle car which was designed to burn 100-octane premium.  In your response, you mentioned that modern octane numbers don’t directly relate to the octane values that were available (100+) in that time period.  Could you elaborate on this?  Hopefully, I didn’t misunderstand. Thanks in advance.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The octane rating back in the 1960s used the method called the Research Method. About 1974, the rating was changed to include the average of the Research Method and the Motor Method which was another method but gave a lower valve. Today the R+M/2 method in the octane rating displayed on pumps.

For example:

Research Method rating = 93

Motor Method rating = 85

Divided by 2 = 89

Therefore, this gasoline would be considered a midgrade (Plus)

The ratings are determined by using a machine that dates back to the 1930s and include a meter called a “knock meter.” When a sample is tested, the knock reading is determined and then compared to the reading of a test sample. The test is not as stringent for the Research method so the test results give a higher rating. The Motor Method used results in a lower value being assigned to the fuel. When which rating to post on the pumps was being discussed, the gasoline companies wanted the Research Method posted because this gave a higher number. Consumer experts wanted the Motor Method number displayed as this method better reflected the conditions experienced in real vehicles during normal driving. After many months of negotiations, the end result is what we see today, the average of the two ratings.

“I recently bought a 1990 Lexus 400 with 80,000 miles.  It has the standard (for that vehicle) V-8 250 hp engine, and the owner’s manual recommends using 91 or higher rated octane gasoline.  I know some of the newer vehicles tolerate lower than recommended octane-their computers adjust the combustion timing.  My question is, will my car handle 87 octane gasoline?  I’ve tried using it once with no apparent noise or change in performance.  Also, will there be any damage to the engine as a result of using it?”

Halderman:

It should not hurt a thing. That engine is equipped with a knock sensor that will retard the ignition timing if spark knock is detected. Using premium grade fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher will result is little or no knock sensor activity. As a result, the engine will provide the highest performance and fuel economy possible. I have always recommended that readers follow the instructions found in the owner’s manual. There are two possible wording issues that you should check before trying a lower octane fuel.

• Premium Required-If this term is used in the owner’s manual and it states that premium grade fuel is required, always use premium grade fuel or possible damage to the engine could occur.
• Premium Recommended-If this term is used, you can try using a midgrade (Plus) grade fuel or even regular. Usually the performance difference is not noticed by most drivers, but the fuel economy can be reduced. No harm to the engine will likely occur if the lower octane fuel are used if premium is just recommended and not required.

“I bought a new mower 14 years ago, and have used it since.  I usually keep a 2.5 gallon can of gas for it in the carport.  When that gas can starts to get low, I fill another 2.5 gallon can and keep it there also to use once the first one is empty.  I do this even if it’s right before winter.  I just end up using the can I bought at the end of fall that next summer.  I have heard that this can cause the gas to turn to varnish or gel.  My fuel still looks clear with a very slight yellowish tint and smells perfectly like gasoline.  However, the other day, my mower kept stalling under medium loads.  Then, after an hour, it wouldn’t run longer than 7 seconds.  I sprayed carburetor cleaner spray into the carburetor, which kept it going, for a half a can’s worth.    After that, I used carburetor cleaner spray to clean out all the passages again.  Now the mower runs like it’s trying to kill someone, which is fantastic.  I have a few questions:

1)  For the mower fuel, should I use Sta-Bil,  or some other brand name of fuel stabilizer to prevent it from turning to varnish/gel over a winter and clogging things again?  Do I use this in the gas can and also in the fuel remaining in the mower for the winter, letting it run a bit after I add it to flow it through the system before storage?  Or does this not help and draining it (throwing all late-fall fuel away) is the only solution?

2)  I also have a 1998 Trans Am which sits most of the winters, during which I run it for 30 minutes once a month, but the fuel mostly sits in it too.  Does this mean that the fuel in it is likely varnishing and clogging its system up as well?  Should I add Sta-Bil to it also?  Would it hurt to do that during every fill up, since I drive it so very little?

3)  In both cases, will adding Sta-bil hurt the fuel system or engines in any way? Will it impair the performance in any way, or change how things run? Is it okay to run that Trans Am with the Sta-Bil in it all the time?  Thanks for all your help!”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing and you have many questions.

1). I use Sta-Bil brand gas stabilizer in the fuel I use for my lawn and garden equipment and I add it to each can. Having the stabilizer in the gas at all times, helps insure that I should not have a fuel-related issues. If you have some fuel left over after the mowing season, simply use in your car to use it up.

2.) I suggest that you use a fuel stabilizer in any vehicle that is not driven a lot or may at times be stored. Sometimes the weather can change and there may not be time to prepare a vehicle for long-term storage, so this is why I use it all the time.

3). Using a gas stabilizer will not hurt the system unless you use too much, use old stabilizer, or add to old gasoline. The shelf life of gasoline is 90 days and it can be used for six months or maybe longer if a stabilizer is added. Fuel stabilizer should be used within a year of opening it. Always follow the instructions on the container for best results.

“I always run the fuel tank empty before storing so I don’t leave the fuel in the system.” Dave U. from Michigan wrote by e-mail: “Your column on ethanol in gasoline struck home with me.  I have a pontoon boat with a 2004  Evinrude 2 stroke outboard.  Two years ago, after the winter, I put the boat in the water and used it for about a week.  The boat has an onboard 25 gallon fuel tank.  The previous fall, I made sure that I put in fresh gas and treated the fuel per the directions on the marine Sta-bil product.

After running the boat for about 1 week, it suddenly quit on me.  I took it to an authorized Evinrude dealer and he found that all the fuel lines were dissolving from the inside out.  When cut open, they looked like black liquid goo.  It cost $1,700.00 to replace all the rubber lines and clean out the engine.  Fortunately it did not get into the injectors.

I now use a portable 6 gallon tank, with treated fuel.  If I am not going to use the boat for a while, I empty the tank and run some marine gas through the engine.  This was not a pretty experience.  This year I also had to have the carb on my snow blower rebuilt as the fuel had damaged it even though I had run it dry when I put it away.  I just hope the amount of alcohol used in fuel is not increased as it will cause severe damage”.

Halderman:

Neither readers asked a question but instead were just commenting about their experience and how they handled possible stale gasoline issue. Even before ethanol was added to the gas, it would become stale by evaporation and oxidation to become a smelly mess of goo.

Problems can occur with stale gasoline from which the lighter parts of the gasoline have evaporated. Stale gasoline usually results in a no-start situation. If stale gasoline is suspected, sniff it. If it smells rancid, replace it with fresh gasoline. If storing a vehicle, boat, or lawnmower

I suggest the following to help prevent problems:

1. Purchase fuel from a busy station
2. Try to use “top tier” gasoline. See https://www.toptiergas.com/
3. Try to avoid storing more than 60 days’ worth of fuel to help prevent stale gas.
4. Put some gasoline stabilizer into the gasoline to reduce the evaporation and separation that can occur during storage.

 

I teach at Illinois Valley Community College, Oglesby, Illinois, and use some of your textbooks.
Question:   If an engine has to use premium fuel, is that only for anti knock issues?

Isn’t it false for people who say that the engine gets more horsepower or better mpg?
Anything else that you might have for me on these issues would be great.
I just bought an Acura MDX, with the 3.7L engine and it calls for premium.   Alldata (name of online service information provider) shows one knock sensor.   I did not know that it required premium before I bought it wholesale from a friend.   I don’t want to do any engine damage.   I will burn 93octane if I have to, but wondered if 91octane would hurt the engine?

Thanks

Halderman:

If an engine is designed to use premium, it will produce it rated torque and power when using premium grade fuel with a pump octane rating of 91 or higher. Some vehicle manufactures state that the engine will produce less power (often about 2%) if regular grade (87 octane) is used. For example, a 2011 Ford Mustang equipped with a 5.0 liter V-8, I have read will produce its rated horsepower of 412 when using premium fuel but “only” produce 402 horsepower if regular grade fuel is used. If premium is specified, the EPA tests the fuel economy using the specified fuel. Therefore, I think it is both power (advertised power) and fuel economy ratings that are driving the use of premium fuel as recommended.

1. I have used regular in a vehicle that specified premium and while I did not notice any lack of power (seat of the pants, not dynamometer testing), I did notice a drop in fuel economy (from 29 to 26 on an Acura TL type S).
2. Yes, it is false to believe that you get more power and economy by using premium unless the engine is designed for it and the recommended fuel is premium.
3. I cannot verify this, but I have experienced better fuel economy (about 1 MPG) more on regular than Plus or premium. I think it is due to the higher BTU content of 87 compared to 89 or higher where ethanol is likely used to increase the octane but lowers the heat content of the fuel.

I do not think that using 91 octane gasoline will hurt your engine.

“I have a 2004 Chevrolet Impala with a supercharged 3.8 liter V-6.  The book says to use premium 93 octane gas, however, the dealer says it will run on 87 or 89 octane.

I use 89 or 93 octane and get 30 plus mpg on the road consistently. My question is, how much better gas miles will I get using 93 octane versus using 87 octane?  I am attempting to justify the extra 20 to 30 cents per gallon for 93 octane.  I realize I will have less performance using 87, but is there any damage one could do to the engine as the computer retards the spark to prevent spark knock?.”

Halderman:

This is a good question and I, too, have found it difficult to test the results under real world conditions.  I own a vehicle that “requires” premium grade gasoline and like you, I did not like paying the extra $0.20 per gallon so I tried 87 octane.  The engine seemed to operate okay, but my fuel economy dropped that week.  I tired again to use 87 when driving on a long trip and the mileage dropped from 29 mpg to 26 mpg or about 10%.  I figure that the $0.20 per gallon price difference was less than 10% so for me and my vehicle, and I will just continue to use premium.

Again, this is in a vehicle that requires premium, not a vehicle that can use regular grade gasoline.  Now I have heard from others that have the supercharged 3800 GM engine and they have reported to me that they could not detect any difference at all when using 87 octane compared to using premium (91+). In some cases, those same drivers decided to use 89 (mid-grade) as their solution to the concern.

Here are observations and information about how the computer adjusts:

1. The knock sensor detects if a lower grade fuel is being used by detecting spark knock. Spark knock is most likely to occur during acceleration and when the engine and air are warm.  Therefore, slow acceleration will less likely cause the timing to be retarded.

2. The computer will retard the ignition timing about 4 degrees. If knock is not detected, the spark timing is just retarded that four degrees.  If no knock is detected, the computer will advance the timing back to the original setting.

3. If knock is detected after the timing has been retarded 4 degrees, it will retard another 4 degrees and check again.  If knock is still detected, another 4 degrees will be taken away form the spark advance curve.

4. Therefore, it is possible for you to use lower octane fuel and not feel any difference as long as it is during cold weather and/or you do not accelerate rapidly.

I hope this explanation has helped.

“I follow your column weekly in the DDN ‘Wheels’ section.  In a previous column a reader asked about the problem of using modern unleaded 93 octane premium in his late 1960s high-compression muscle car which was designed to burn 100-octane premium.  In your response you mentioned that modern octane numbers don’t directly relate to the octane values that were available (100+) in that time period.  Could you elaborate on this?  Hopefully I didn’t misunderstand. Thanks in advance.”

Halderman:

Thanks of writing. The octane rating of gasoline goes back to the 1920s when Charles F. Kettering discovered that an engine will operate smoother and quieter if certain additives were used in the fuel. For some background information, I asked Dr. John Heitmann, a professor of History at the University of Dayton, for some input. Here is what he wrote:

“This is actually an incredibly complex and confusing topic. Chemist Russell Marker, while working at Ethyl in 1927, established the octane rating scale of 0-100. What the scale measures is how much compression a fuel can withstand before detonation, with iso-octane pegged at 100 and n-heptane at 0. That doesn’t mean that a fuel has a proportion of iso-octane and heptane in it (say 90-10 is 90), but that it behaves in a test as that mixture would.  Making matters more confusing, there are Research Octane Numbers (RON) and Motor Octane Numbers (MON) numbers”.

Thanks Dr, Heitmann for the background information. Back in the 1960s when high performance muscle cars were popular and performance was king, the research octane method was used and premium was , as you said, 100 octane or higher. Today the octane rating specified and posted on pumps is the average of the two rating methods. For example if a fuel has a research octane rating of  96 and a Motor octane rating of 88, then the posted octane rating would be 92 (R+M/2).

“I have the opportunity to purchase a 2009 Audi A4 convertible from of my sister-in-laws lease for what appears to be a very good price.  Maybe more importantly the car only has approximately 14,000 miles after 3 years.  The manufacture calls for using premium gas, but the great majority of the time she used regular gas.  As far as she is concerned, there has been no difference in engine performance.  I did ask a salesman at the local Audi dealer if that should be a concern in making my decision to buy the car and he did not think so, but I am concerned.  What is your opinion on this situation? Thanks very much.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Check the owner’s manual. There is a difference between:

Premium required and recommended. If premium is required, then I suggest that it be used for best performance and fuel economy.

The most common effect of using mid-grade or regular instead of the specified premium will be fuel economy. Try premium for a couple of tanks and check the fuel economy and then try mid-grade (plus). If you do not notice any performance or fuel economy drop, then try regular. If the fuel economy drops off, go back to using premium or mid-grade fuel.

“I know you have stated many times, as have other writers who have columns in the paper, don’t buy premium gas if the engine doesn’t call for it. However, with warm weather, I have heard that buying premium will help the engine computer, which is trying to really retard the timing more than normal.  So, what are the conditions when buying higher octane is the correct thing to do?”

Halderman:

Purchasing different grades of fuel depending on the seasonal temperatures dates back to the days before computer-controlled engines and fuel injection. Today, the grade of fuel is determined by the vehicle manufacture for each engine. For most vehicles, regular grade unleaded 87 octane fuel is the fuel that should be used regardless of the weather or temperature.

Some vehicles “recommend” premium fuel for best performance and fuel economy. In this case, using a midgrade (plus) or even regular may be considered safe to use but the fuel economy may be less. If the vehicle manufactures recommendation states that premium grade is “required” then I would recommend that only premium grade be used. Check the owner’s manual for the exact fuel to use.

All gasoline is blended for each season and often varies throughout the year. This means that fuel purchased in the early spring may not be suitable for hot summer driving. The same goes for fuel purchased in the summer, which is not designed to allow for easy starting in cold weather. For best results, gasoline should be used and not stored either in a storage container or in a vehicle longer than 90 days (three months).

“I enjoy reading your column in the Dayton Daily News, and I’d appreciate your advice on a couple of topics.

• My wife and I own a ’57 T-bird.  The owner’s manual “recommends” using a premium-grade fuel (which, of course, would have been leaded fuel in 1957).  I understand that gasoline octane ratings are calculated differently now than they were in the 50s, and I also don’t know what octane rating would have been considered to be “premium” in the 50s.  Given the changes in fuel formulations over the years, most notably the addition of ethanol and the removal of lead, would you say that I should still use a premium-grade fuel, or would today’s regular grade now be satisfactory?
• Also, the vehicle was restored before we got it, so I don’t know if any engine modifications were made to accommodate unleaded fuel. Consequently, I always add a lead substitute to every tank fill-up.  In the event that the necessary modifications were in fact done before we purchased the car, other than adding unnecessary air pollution, is there any harm being caused by adding lead substitute to the fuel at every fill-up?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing and here are my thoughts:

• The best way to find out how the gas works is to try using first midgrade (Plus) and see if the engine pings under a load when it is hot. When the engine “pings”, it sounds like loose marbles in a steel can. If it does, then continue to use premium grade. If it does not ping using midgrade, try regular at the next fill-up and see if it pings. There is really no other reasonable way to find out.
• I don’t really think using a lead substitute is needed. The valves may recess into the cylinder head if hardened seats were not installed (not likely), but to have this happen requires the engine to be operating under a heavy load and at high speeds for a long period of time. If you drive this car in hilly areas at highway speeds for hours at a time, then yes, continue to use the lead substitute, but maybe reduce it to every other tank fill-up. If the car is being driven around town at lower speeds and not under a heavy load, I don’t think there is a need to continue to use it.

“I hope you can help me. I have many lawn and garden pieces of equipment plus a snow blower and several tractors. I am storing half them over the summer and the others are in storage over the winter. I have heard that all gasoline today contains alcohol and that this can cause issues with the fuel system in my equipment. My questions include:

1. Is it true that gasoline today contains alcohol?
2. Where can I find gasoline that does not contain alcohol?
3. If I can’t find pure gasoline, is there something I can use to treat the fuel to help prevent causing damage to my equipment?

Thanks”.

Halderman:

Thanks for asking and you did hear right that there is alcohol in most gasoline today. The alcohol used is ethanol, also called grain alcohol or ethyl alcohol, and it is the same alcohol as is in wine, beer and whiskey. The ethanol is usually made from corn and then “denatured” so that it is not drinkable and then added to gasoline at the local fuel depot (distributor).  Gasoline today contains up to 10% ethanol. There is a website (www.pure-gas.org) that lists stations that carry gasoline that does not contain ethanol. Ethanol-free gasoline also costs more.

Regarding your third question, I suggest that two things be done to help protect your equipment:

1. Keep the fuel tank full when not in use. Ethanol can absorb moisture form the air so if the tank is kept full, then there’re will be very little air in the tanks. When ethanol combines with moisture, the ethanol separates form the fuel and sinks to the bottom of the fuel tank. It is this concentration of ethanol at the bottom of the tank where it can be drawn into the engine that can cause issues such as corrosion of the fuel system and could make the engine run rough.
2. A fuel stabilizer such as STA-BIL can be used every time the equipment is refueled. This can help keep the gasoline from oxidizing and also help prevent the ethanol from separating from the gasoline. Add the stabilizer to the fuel storage container used to refuel the equipment and be sure to use fresh stabilizer in fresh gasoline (less than 90 days old) for best results.

“I have a 2008 Dodge minivan with a 3.8 L engine.  When I check the oil with the dipstick, I get a different reading every time, no matter how many times I check it.  I called the dealer, he said to start the car and run the engine for a couple minutes.  Then, shut it off and let sit a couple minutes, and check the oil level.  It’s still the same. Do you have a suggestion?”

 Halderman:

For most engines, the oil level should be checked before starting the engine and after it has been sitting overnight.  I have read that some engines will not display an accurate oil level unless the engine has been off for an hour or longer.  It takes a long time for the oil to travel from passages and locations, such as the cylinder head and overhead camshafts, and back into the oil pan. Also be sure that the vehicle is on a level location to avoid an error in reading the oil level.  Therefore, for best results, park somewhere level and check the oil in the morning before starting the engine.  Remove the dipstick and using a shop cloth, wipe the oil off and reinstall.  Be sure that the dipstick is fully depressed to get an accurate measurement.  Remove the dipstick a second time and observe the oil level.  The oil level should be between full and add.  Do not overfill.  The add mark indicates that 1 quart of oil is needed.

“We have a 2013 Malibu with the 2.5 liter four-cylinder engine.  In the owner’s manual, page section 10-12, it says – in effect – not to overfill the crankcase and if it is above the upper mark to seek a service professional to remove the excess amount of oil.  Under Racing or Other Competitive Driving, page section 9-6, it says “For the 2.0L and 2.5L Ecotec engine:  Add and keep the oil level at 1 L (1 quart) above the high mark when driving under these conditions.”  The manual says that dexos 5W-20 is the best oil for this engine.  There is no recommendation for heavier oil for racing or competitive driving.  I would appreciate your opinion.  How much oil is too much?  Thank you very much”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I am just assuming that when racing, the engineers were concerned that the oil drain back may not be fast enough to keep the oil pump pickup submerged in oil.

This can also happen during rapid cornering for a long period of time, such as on a road course. Therefore, if you are not racing this vehicle, in competitive events, keep the oil lever to the upper mark as specified.

I agree that dexos (spelled with a lower case “d” as specified by General Motors) 5W-20 oil is the best oil to use for the engine under all driving conditions. Many racing engines use larger bearing clearances and therefore, they need higher-viscosity oil but this engine is designed for SAE 5W-20. Also, be sure to always use oil that is dexos certified to make sure that you are using what GM recommends for this engine.

“I own a 2007 Cadillac CTS with 6,400 miles on it.  It’s equipped with a V6 engine.  I went on line and found that a large number of GM V6’s are having engine problems.  The timing chain is wearing prematurely regardless of mileage.  I received a letter from Cadillac Division that they would change the calibration of the engine control module, including the engine oil life monitor, which in most cases will recommend more frequent oil changes.  This will ensure that your vehicle will not experience this condition.  Do you think that this will solve the problem?  I read your column about General Motors new engine oil, Dexos.  I change my oil every 3 months at the Cadillac dealers using synthetic oil”.

Halderman:

I suggest that you do have the computer recalibration (re-flash) performed. This may include changes to the variable valve timing that could help reduce the wear to the timing chain and tensioners. Using Dexos oil may also help but you are doing everything you can to help. Apparently you do not drive the Cadillac very much as it is about 4 years old and has less than 7,000 miles which is about 2,000 miles per year. There may be some things you can help your vehicle due to not driving it very often or very far. These suggestions include:

1. Use a gasoline stabilizer such as STA-BIL at each fill up to help keep the gasoline from deteriorating. According to fuel experts, the “shelf life” of gasoline is about 90 days. Therefore you should operate the vehicle enough every 3 months to burn a tank of fuel. Using the stabilizer will be added insurance against possible fuel system-related faults such as clogged fuel injectors.
2.  Consider using a “float-type” battery charger to keep the battery charged if it is being stored or not driven at least every week. This will not only keep the battery charged but it will extend the life of the battery. Batteries work best when kept from being deeply discharged.
3. Consider taking a trip out-of-town once a month to get the engine and all the drive train up to operating temperature and keeping it there. This helps boil off any condensed moisture and helps make sure that all moving parts are thoroughly lubricated and that the systems are all working as designed. For example, if you are driving in slow city traffic, the transmission my not shift into overdrive. Getting the vehicle out on the road, especially now that spring is here, helps the vehicle by being used as it is designed.
4. Keep the tires properly inflated. Use the inflation pressure specification as shown on the placard on the driver’s door as the guide to use for the proper pressure. Do not forget to check the spare tire.

“I enjoy reading your articles every Saturday in the Dayton Daily News. You provide a wealth of information that has been very beneficial to me and my family.  I recently purchased a used 1997 New Holland Compact Tractor with a 3-cylinder 29 HP diesel engine. Since I will be changing the oil soon and this is my first experience with diesels, I was hoping you could provide information on what type of oil I should use. Does this require special diesel oil?  Thanks in advance for any help you can provide”.

Halderman:

Yes, all diesels require special oil. This is due to the need for a viscosity usually not used in gasoline engines, such as SAE 15W-40 and with an additive package designed to handle the soot that is formed in diesel engines. Check the owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website for the recommended oil to use. Many manufacturers have a list of brands and even part numbers also called “stock keeping units” or “SKU”s that can be taken to a parts store to help you find the exact oil to use.

“My soccer mom daughter recently purchased a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 180,000 miles. While it was at a good price, I’m concerned about its maintenance history. The interior was quite unkempt, which makes me suspect that the previous owner was also not diligent about routine oil changes. I hear some valve train noise and see some smoke on startup. Here’s my question. Should I use the specified SAE 5W-20 oil, or go to a 5W-30 or 10W-30 based on my assumption of increased wear due to lack of proper maintenance? Also, what is your opinion on the “high mileage” oils being offered? I note that they do not have the “energy conserving” logo.

Thanks.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I think using a high mileage oil is a wise move considering the conditions. Using SAE 5W-30 is also a good move and I doubt that this will result in any measurable loss in fuel economy. I normally do not recommend the use of high-mileage oils because they often contain higher levels of additives that can cause the catalytic converter to deteriorate. With that many miles and possible lack of proper maintenance, I assume that engine wear has occurred. Using a higher viscosity engine oil will help reduce the exhaust smoke and oil consumption. The use of a high-mileage oil can also help because these oils usually contain extra additives such as esters, to swell the seals thereby reducing oil used through valve stem seals.

“I own a 2014 Chevrolet Impala and I was wondering if I used synthetic engine oil, can I delay the oil change interval? My car shows the life of the oil in percent and often shows a message to “change oil soon” after just six months of driving. I would rather delay the need to change the oil to once a year so I don’t have to visit a shop as often”.

Halderman:

The short answer is no. Your GM vehicle requires the use of Dexos certified engine oil and this specification, which is available from many different oil brands, is formulated to meet the needs of your engine. According to General Motors, the oil life monitor (OLM) should be used as your guide to change the oil regardless of the type of oil used. When the OLM is reset after the oil has been changed, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors the operation of the engine and the number of starts and subtracts a percentage from 100 as determined by the level of harm that the oil may experience. For example, a cold start when the temperature is below freezing may cause the PCM to subtract 1 number, whereas it may require a long trip at highway speed to subtract the same one point. In other words, the time and miles it takes for the PCM to count down to about 15% and show the message to “change the oil soon” varies as to how the vehicle is driven. Short trips and city driving will cause the oil to be changed more often compared to those who drive many miles at highway speed over long distances.

The bottom line is to use the specified engine oil and change the oil when the oil life monitor indicates that it is time to change the oil.

“I have some questions about what oil I should be using in my truck and in my new lawn tractor.

• First, my 2016 Chevrolet Silverado truck calls for SAE 0W-20. That seems very thin to me and I was thinking of using SAE 5W-30 instead. Your thoughts? Also, do you think using a synthetic is worth the extra money?
• My new lawn tractor calls for SAE 10W-30 but some Internet sites recommended the use of SAE 10W-40? Which one should I use? Also is using a synthetic recommended?

Thanks”.

Halderman:

I always recommend what the vehicle manufacturer specifies to be used. The engineers know the what is best for the engine and in your case using SAE 0W-20 is the right viscosity to use. Here is the good news. If there is a “0” at the beginning of any oil viscosity rating, it HAS to be synthetic to be able to meet the specifications.

Regarding your lawn tractor oil. I would again recommend the use of the specified SAE 10W-30. Using the SAE 10W-40 means that it has more viscosity index improvers added to make it suitable for the wider viscosity range. The extra improver additive has been known to cause piston rings to stick leading to increased oil usage. Stay with a known brand name SAE 10W-30 and using a synthetic is a wise option in my opinion. Change the oil in the lawn tractor as specified by the manufacturer, which is usually ever 25 hours of operation.

“It seems to me that several years ago you did not recommend extended service motor oils. I believe you said that extra amounts of certain additives could be harmful to the catalytic converter. What is your opinion now? Especially in reference to Mobil 1 Extended Service 5W-30 dexos1 oil. Thank you”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The new dexos GM oil is designed for GM vehicles. Because it is a highly refined product and meets the strict GM specs, it can last slightly longer. GM engineers told me that the oil life monitor using dexos may extend the oil change interval to a maximum of about 14,000 miles compared to a maximum of 12,000 miles for conventional oil. However, these are maximum miles and most vehicles will light the “change oil” light at much sooner intervals unless the vehicle is driven all highway driving with few cold engine starts. The oil life monitor uses the number of starts and run time to calculate the life of the oil. Drivers who commute 10-20 miles each way to work will notice that the oil life monitor will indicate an oil change is needed after about 3,000 miles when being driven in cold weather and longer intervals during warm weather months. General Motors dexos oil (usually written with a lower case “d”), is a superior oil that is designed for lowest possible exhaust emissions and improved fuel economy. It is recommended for use in any gasoline fuel General Motors engine where SAE 5W-30 is recommended. The oils I do not recommend are those that state that the oil change interval can be extended beyond what the vehicle manufacturer recommends.

“I just purchased a 2011 Buick Lacrosse and in the owner’s manual (yes, I did read it) it states that dexos oil is required to be used. I have not been able to find this oil at the local big box store.

What is dexos and is it really needed compared to using good quality SAE 5W-30 oil?”

Halderman:

Dexos (usually written in lower case in by General Motors Co.) is the oil specified for use in all General Motors vehicles starting with the 2011 model year. Dexos 1 is specified for all gasoline fueled engines and dexos 2 is specified for use in all diesel fueled vehicles.

While there are two new oil standards that became effective in 2010, General Motor Co. still created a separate specification for use in General Motors’ vehicles (Buick, Chevrolet, GMC trucks and Cadillac) and dexos is backward compatible, meaning that it takes the places of other specification such as 6094M and the Corvette engine specification. This means that dexos can be used in all General Motors vehicles.

Some interesting information was released when dexos was announced including:

• Engine wear is now measured in “atoms per hour”
• Oils must be formulated to prevent aeration as any air in the oil can affect the operation of variable valve timing control valves and variable displacement engine systems.

This means that it more important than ever to use the specified oil. The days of the $20 oil changes are over as is $2.00 a gallon gasoline. Today’s engines are more efficient, but they require that they be serviced at the specified intervals and that the specified fluids be replaced.

If you cannot find dexos, try a local dealer as they will have it until the oil companies start manufacturing it for the do-it-yourself market which may take a year or more.

Note to Readers:

It is now officially spring and time to have the oil changed and perform other automotive services as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. The services usually include:

1. Oil change
2. Air filter inspection/replacement
3. Cabin filter replacement
4. Windshield wiper blades replacement
5. Tire inspection/rotation or replacement
6. Spring cleaning/waxing/polishing

“My old Jeep Compass which has 170,000 miles used to call for SAE 5W-20 oil. I think that with all of the wear and tear and the high mileage, I can use thicker oil such as SAE 10W-30. What is your input about that? I think the more the miles on your car should get different thicker oil”.

Halderman:

While your idea sounds like it would be right, it is not. Use the oil specified throughout its entire life. If the engine is excessively worn and burning oil with blue exhaust smoke, then yes, using thicker (higher viscosity) oil may be wise to help reduce oil consumption. However, the engine was designed to use the specified viscosity. For example, the valve lifters are designed to bleed down at a certain rate and using oil that is thicker than specified can cause the valves to remain partially open when they should be closed. This can cause a misfire and poor engine operation.

In fact, I have “fixed” several engines that had random misfire diagnostic trouble codes (P0300) after the oil was changed to thicker oil by changing the oil again using the specified viscosity.

I always recommend the factory specified oil regardless of age or mileage.

“I have a 2011 Toyota Sienna; my question is in two parts. First Toyota recommends having the oil changed at 10,000 miles or 12 months. To be honest the 10,000 miles scares me!  I know with the new engines and oils they can go longer between oil changes. What do you think about the 10,000 miles? Second, Toyota wants me to use synthetic (SAE 0W-20) oil. I have looked but not hard and I have not been able to find the SAE 0W-20 oil. The owner’s manual says if SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 oil at the next oil change. They do not say if the SAE 5W-20 is synthetic or not.”

Halderman:

I know that every 10,000 miles or every 12 months seems like a long time for a specified oil change intervals, but this is common today.  The key is that specified interval means:

1. The maximum miles that can be traveled before the oil is changed
2. The maximum time before the oil is changed
3. The oil can be changed before this time or mileage

Therefore if you drive a many miles, you may reach the 10,000 miles before the year is up. According to the studies I have read, the average vehicle is driven about 15,000 mile per year.

If you do drive 15,000 miles per year, chances are good that many of these miles are done on the highway and highway miles are easy on engine oil. Conversely, if you drive less than 10,000 miles per year, then this means that the vehicle is being used most likely for short trips and in city driving, which is harder on engine oil.

I am not aware of any Toyota that specifies the use of synthetic engine oil unless it is turbocharged. Many newer vehicles, including Toyotas and Hondas are now specifying the use of lower viscosity oil such as SAE 0W-20 and this is available in both conventional mineral oil formulations and synthetic. . As always, I recommend that readers use the oil that is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. They do not specify this viscosity without careful consideration by the engine and emission control engineers. It is the exhaust emissions standards that are driving most of these changes in oils. If you cannot find SAE 0W-20 and you cannot find SAE 5W-20, use that viscosity and keep looking for SAE 0W-20.

“How do I explain this to my consumer? Customer stored a Mustang over the winter and then told me “I had a message on my Mustang with only 1,700 miles on the oil that an oil change was due soon” Is the oil life monitor keeping track of the time as well as the miles?”

Halderman:

Apparently it is. Most vehicles today use an oil life monitor and it can be one of several types including:

1. Mileage only warning message to have the vehicle serviced appears every 5,000-10,000 miles depending on the vehicle.
2. The monitor uses an algorithm (computer program) that tracks the number of cold engine starts and run time and subtracts from 100 percent until it reaches 10 percent. Then the monitor displays a message stating that an oil change is due.
3. An advanced algorithm that includes a clock/calendar so it “knows” that a year has passed.

Every vehicle manufacturer that I know specifies that the oil be changed according to one of the following:

• The specified mileage or months as stated in the owner’s manual.
• When notified that the oil needs to be changed by the oil life monitor.
• At least every year regardless of the miles driven.

This is the recommendation as published by the vehicle manufacturer and while it may be hard for the customer to understand, this is what needs to be done.

“I have an oil additive question: Would adding Pyroil engine oil additive to my 2000 Honda Accord have any adverse effect on the catalytic converter? The car has about 100,000 miles on it.   In the past I’ve used it with 1960s and 1970s Chevrolets and Fords, but that was before the catalytic converter days. I am unsure of the chemicals used in the additive”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. Neither Honda nor any vehicle manufacturers recommend the use of any additive. Most oil additives do contain high levels of zinc which can cause damage to the catalytic converter. The term used for the most commonly used zinc additive is ZDDP. This additive is needed in older engines (usually engine built before 1980) that use flat bottom lifters.

Even then, the use of the zinc additive is most important during the break-in period.

If a zinc additive is used, it will not likely be noticed for many miles or years because the zinc used needs to be burned in the combustion chamber then to the catalytic converter where it will reduce its efficiency. Because so little oil is used in newer engines the affect can take a long time. Also the additive will not do anything except maybe make you feel better that you have taken good care of the engine even though you have not.

“I was reading your article today about the Change Oil Lights, and it sparked a question. My mechanic believes that the quality of the oil filter is as important as the quality of the oil used. The car’s computer does not know what quality of filter or oil us used.  (Or am I wrong about that?)  How can a person rely on the computer  to give  good information about when to change oil?  Also, is my mechanic correct  when he  says that some of the quick  oil change companies use cheap or inferior oil filters and therefore the engine is not protected as well as it should be?  Thirdly, is there a rating for oil filters as there is for oil?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing.
1. I agree that there are oil filters that are higher quality than others. However, they all use about the same size of media used to trap dirt and that is between 10 and 20 microns. This means that the filtering paper can trap particles larger than 20 microns but allow particles smaller than about 20 microns to pass through. The human eye cannot see anything smaller than 40 micron. Smaller particles than 20 microns do not harm engines because they can travel through bearing clearances without causing any harm.
The major difference in oil filters is the number of folds, and therefore, the length of time before becoming clogged and causing a restriction. If the oil is changed according to the vehicle manufacturers recommended interval, the number of folds is not important.
2. I think the computer program for oil change intervals is very accurate. For example, two cases I am familiar with include a vehicle that is driven daily drive to work 10 miles each way. This type of driving is tough on oil and the computer signaled for an oil change at 3,000 miles. Another one was a vehicle driven every day from Akron to Cleveland (about 60 miles each way) and the computer indicated an oil change about every 10,000 miles. This type of driving is relatively easy on oil, and except for the cold starts in the winter, it could have been longer.
3. Except for the filtering media size, and burst strength, I am not aware of any oil filter specifications that are a need to know for the average vehicle owner. Each vehicle has a specified oil filter. The specifications will include whether or not it has an anti-drain back valve or pressure relief valve because sometimes these valves are built into the engine itself.
I suggest that you use an oil filter that is specified for your vehicle and is from a known company.

“I changed the oil and filter in my 2010 Impala in December, 2011.  As of this moment (late December 2012), I have put less than 1,500 miles on the car.  Should I change the oil?   I use Mobil-1 in my vehicles and change the oil when the mileage interval gets to 3,000 miles.   Thanks for your weekly column and advice”.

 Halderman:

Good question because it seems that the oil should not have been harmed just sitting in the engine. However, all vehicle manufacturers that I know and most oil companies recommend that the engine oil be replaced at least every year regardless of the number of miles driven. Why?  Short trips are hard on engines and engine oil. To drive off moisture that is in the oil due to condensation when the hot engine cools, the engine oil needs to be above 212 degrees. This means that the engine needs to operate at least 20 miles in cold weather for the engine oil to reach that temperature. If most of the trips are short (less than 10 miles), then moisture can build up which causes acids to form in the oil. The moisture causes corrosion of engine parts and the acids formed can harm engine bearings and gaskets.

Therefore, for long engine life, change the engine oil at least every year and always use the viscosity specified in the owner’s manual and /or on the oil fill cap.

“A friend just bought a GM Traverse. He said when he went to drive it off the lot, one of the dealer’s mechanics, told him new GM oil change advice to keep the engine running better .
He said he was told my friend should drive the vehicle 25 miles at city pace, then 25 miles at highway speeds, then change the oil and filter. Then at 3,000 miles do it again. After that, it is OK to change every 5,000 to 7,500 miles.
I know that some cars will say drive 500 miles and change the oil and filter, it gets some shavings and other crap out of the engine, but 50-3,000 is new one to me.
Is this something so new that few have heard of it?
I can see the logic behind the changing after a few short miles, but 50 miles, then 3,000 mile oil changes is new to me. What you think?”

Halderman:

That “might” have been OK back in the 1950s, but it is no longer needed. In fact, many vehicle manufacturers state that the original oil should be left in the engine until the first scheduled oil change. In this case, this means when the change oil light comes on, which will be as soon as 3,000 miles and may not come on until 12,000 miles. While the vehicle manufacturer does not say, I think there could be some friction reducing additives used in the oil. Also the engines today are more accurately machined and dirt and debris is not a concern as the manufacturing process is extremely clean. In fact the machining is so accurate that it is difficult to measure the clearances as many are expressed in microns (one millionth of a meter). Measureing these clearances usually requires air gauges that measure the amount of air passing through the gap between the parts. This is also why thinner (lower viscosity) engine oil is being specified for use in most new vehicles. With today’s oil and the oil life monitoring system, there is no need to spend the money or the time doing what your friend is suggesting. As always, I recommend following the vehicle manufacturers recommended oil change intervals.

“Well it was time for my oil change, so down to the local big box store to buy oil and filter.

I was in shock at how many different types of oil are now on the market. I mean Mobil has Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, Mobil 1 High Mileage and Mobil Super. That’s just one brand I saw. The store also sells other brands that I just stepped back and started looking at them all.  I mean even the store has its own oil types.  For the first time I was overwhelmed by what to buy.  I stuck with store brand of Synthetic Blend SAE 5W-30 and a good brand of oil filter.   Should I have purchased high-mileage oil? My car has 178,000 on it and therefore it qualifies because it has over 75,000 miles?  Thanks for the help you have given me in the past”.

Halderman:

I know that there are many different brands and types of oil on the market. To help sort things out first narrow your search using the following guideline:

• Select the oil from those of your favorite brand.
• The select the specified viscosity oil for your vehicle, which over the past ten years or so is likely to be either SAE 5W-30 or SAE 5W-20.
• Then look for the starburst on the front of the container which means that it meets the ILSAC standard.
• I suggest that you avoid the “high-mileage” oils as some of these may contain additives that may harm the catalytic converter over a long period of time.
• Select the type of oil that meets your budget.

I would like your professional opinion on the crush washer for oil plugs on autos. I change my own oil, and have never changed a crush washer. I have been buying oil filters from our local Toyota and Honda dealer for our late model cars. They both try to sell me a crush washer.

I wasn’t paying attention this week at the Honda dealer and I paid for it before I realized it was on the ticket. I put it in the drawer with my spare Honda parts.

Cost is not the issue. These washers are aluminum alloy and I could understand if they were damaged. The used Honda washer I inspected today only had a raised radial distortion near the threads on the plug. It was perfectly circular and would not keep the washer from seating properly. I have never had an oil plug leak so I do not see the need to change the washer every time I drain the oil. I use synthetic, so the oil is only changed one or two times a year at 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

Halderman:

I try to only recommend what the vehicle manufacturer recommends and they recommend that the washer be replaced at each oil change. Is it needed at each oil change? I do not know but I do know that once a crush washer has been compressed, it will not return to its original thickness and therefore may not be able to seal as designed. What do I do? I replace them at each oil change. To me this is cheap insurance and is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Many readers including Dan T., Dave P., Steve C. and others have asked about what my advice is regarding oil change intervals and the use of synthetic and synthetic-blended oils.

Halderman:

Oil is a very popular topic and I get many questions about oil and oil change intervals. Here are some of the changes that I have seen in the last five years:

1. Oil change intervals have increased from 5,000 miles to 7,500 or 10,000 miles. This sure is different from the old days when almost every manufacturer recommended that the oil be changed every 3,000 miles or every three months.
2. Recommended minimum oil change intervals (regardless of miles driven) have increased from every six months to at least once a year even if the miles driven are less than 10,000.
3. The use of vehicle specific engine oil standards. The most commonly used is dexos (spelled with a lower case “d” according to GM). European vehicles are also required to use specific oil designed for their engines and these can be expensive. It is not unusual for an oil change in a Mercedes or BMW to exceed $250 but that is using six or more quarts of very specific oil that has a robust additive package.
4. The lack of specific oil change intervals being published by the vehicle manufacturers and instead, they specify that oil life monitor be used to indicate when the oil should be changed. This interval can be as short as every 3,000 miles if driven mostly in the city or as long as every 10,000 or longer if the vehicle is driven mostly on the highway.

Not all synthetic oils are the same as they can be made from Group 3, 4 or 5 base stock.

• Group 3 is the least expensive and is used by many oil companies to create synthetic blends which combine the highly refined group 3 stock oil with conventional mineral oil which is classified as group 2.
• Group 4 is PAO base which is expensive and used by Mobil 1.
• Group 5 is usually ester based oils such as used in Redline and Royal Purple brands of oil.

The bottom line is to change the oil according to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation or use the oil life indicator and use the specified viscosity and standard such as dexos, etc. This is the most important thing to do. The actual type of oil is relatively minor in comparison to changing the oil regularly.

“I have a new Camry and no one seems to carry the oil required for my engine. The owner’s manual specifies SAE 0W-16 and no shop has heard of this viscosity and they want to use SAE 0W-20 instead. My questions are where can this oil be purchased and would it be okay to use SAE 0W-20 instead of SAE 0W-016?”

Halderman:

The lower viscosity oil (SAE 0W-16) is new this year although it has been used in Japan for several years. I was able to purchase it, but I had to visit a Toyota dealer and it cost over $7.00 a quart. Check the owner’s manual where I think you will find that you can use a commonly available SAE 0W-20 if SAE 0W-16 is not available, but it will likely recommend that the thinner oil be used at the next service interval.  There is a trend in the automotive field toward lower viscosity oil to help improve fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions. Look for SAE 0W-12 and SAE 0W-8 in the future.

“Hello, I really enjoy your column and advice.  My question: I saw SAE 0W30 Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart today and on the jug it said it could be used in vehicles calling for SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30.  What is your opinion of this?  Zero viscosity scares me but I know new vehicles are using it, and some come with SAE 0W-20. This is scary to me.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I know it is scary and this is how I felt when SAE 5W-30 first appeared. The thinner oil is needed because the engines use closer tolerances and the thinner oil is able to reach and lubricate engine parts faster. Look for even thinner oils in the next year or so. There is talk about some going to an SAE 0W-0. This will cause some confusion with customers and service technicians so there is talk about creating a new method of designating oil viscosity. Most engines today use variable valve timing and closer tolerances which makes using the thinner oil extremely important. The use of the low numbers such as zero (0) is the result of the standard established in the 1920s and no one thought that engine oil would be as thin as they are today. There has been talk in the lubrication industry about changing to a group of letters instead of the numbers because in the future the SAE rating could actually be less than zero, which will cause a lot of confusion in the market.

“How soon should you switch from regular oil to synthetic?   I’ve used Mobil 1 for years, but cannot recall when I made the switch initially from what came in the vehicle to Mobil 1.   The vehicles in question are:

(1.) 2011 Toyota Highlander (non hybrid)

(2.) 2011 Honda CRV

If you don’t mind, I’d rather that my name not be published in the newspaper for all to see, but I am curious and don’t want to change it too soon as we’ll have the vehicles for a long, long time.  Thanks so much in advance. Your columns are enjoyable, though are often way over my head”.

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. You can change to synthetic at the first scheduled oil change. Most experts recommended that you do not change the oil early but instead change the oil the first time at the designated interval, usually after 5,000 miles to 7,500 miles. By that time, the rings have seated and you can start using any oil that has the specified viscosity. The oil used at the factory is usually the same oil that is recommended for service. While the vehicle manufacturers do not publish what additives may also be included, most do state that the oil in the engine should remain and not be drained sooner than the first recommended oil change, which is usually 5,000 miles to over 12,000 miles in some cases. I have talked to engineers at the Corvette assembly plant in Blowing Green, KY, regarding their using Mobil 1 synthetic in brand new engines. They stated that using a synthetic does delay the break-in period a “few thousand miles”, they did not think that this was a major issue.  Enjoy your new vehicles.

“Previously, you had an article about using synthetic oil and I have a question about using it in air cooled engines.  My first riding mower lasted 18 years with one  engine rebuild/overhaul with regular oil.  Would it have lasted longer with synthetic oil?  I now have a bigger and different model.  Would I be better off using synthetic oil?  By the way, I am mowing 5 acres so it gets a lot of use.”

Halderman:

Yes, synthetic oil is great for use in air cooled engines. Air cooled engines operate hotter and synthetic oils are designed to work well under extreme temperatures. Most small engine manufacturers specify that regular oil that came with it should be used the first 50 hours of operation and then you can use synthetic of the specified viscosity. According to lubrication engineers, synthetic oil is superior to mineral oil in all aspects except price. The price of synthetic oil is often 3 or 4 times the cost of conventional (mineral) oil. However, what is your mower worth?

Wheels:

Can C.M. go back t using regular oil after he has used synthetic?

Halderman:

Yes. All engine oil is miscible, meaning that it can be mixed without any problems with incompatibility. That is a frequently asked question because often readers have written saying that while they would like to try using a synthetic, they do not want to have to continue using it. Another question that I am asked a lot concerns the oil change intervals when using synthetic oil. When synthetic oils first came out, the oil was very expensive so the marketing pitch at that time said that the oil change interval could be extended, therefore making the total cost about the same as using conventional mineral oils. No manufacturer recommends extending the recommended oil change interval regardless of the type of oil used. I also agree that whatever oil is used, it should be changed at the designated oil change interval. For lawn and garden equipment, this interval is usually 25 to 50 hours of operation. Always check the instructions that came with the equipment for the recommend oil change interval. Synthetic oil is also great for snow removal equipment, if equipped with a four stroke cycle engine. Synthetic oil flows a lot better than conventional oil at low temperatures making starting a snow blower easier.

“I have a 2007 BMW 525i.  I drive 98% highway miles.  I drive for maximum fuel efficiency even to the point of being a bit slower than average traffic.   I drive 5,000 miles a month, nearly all down Interstate and major state highways in rural America. My BMW was built with an inline 6 cylinder engine.  I am getting 36 mpg average, and have done as well as 42 mpg.  Now for my question:  A BMW oil change is $100.  I read the recent article on synthetic oil and high mileage changes. I would prefer to change my oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles and used standard non synthetic oil.

It seems to me the economics of this decision include your driving conditions and habits, but also how long do you plan to keep the car.  If you take care of a piece of equipment like you plan to keep it to 500,000 miles, then you just might succeed at this.

If I change the oil frequently at $100 a pop, that’s a lot of money.  I think this is all marketing hype.  What is happening is the manufacturer is trying to get the consumer into the dealership frequently.  The cost of maintaining the car is soaring because of marketing design.

I like the idea of keeping the oil clean.  It strikes me that given the low level of stress my oil is given, it doesn’t matter.  The manual says synthetic oil only.  The car is designed that it is impossible for a regular citizen to change his own oil because he can’t reset the stupid monitors.

Do you have any thoughts on this matter?”

Halderman:

For the detailed answer go to my web site (https://jameshalderman.com) and select “Power Points” and then look at the one on engine oil. There you will see that BMW and other European vehicle manufacturers use a different rating system for oil compared to those used in the U.S. They also specify oil that has a very broad viscosity range, such as SAE 10W-60, that is not found in oils that do not meet the BMW (ACEA) standards. Severe engine damage and sludge can occur if standard API- rated oil is used instead of the specified oil. However, the good news is that BMW specifies (check the owner’s manual to be sure for your vehicle) 30,000 km (18,000 mile) oil change intervals. This means that even though it might cost $250.00 for an oil change including having all of the electric oil pumps run using a scan tool by the shop to rid the system of air,  it is actually about the same cost if you used conventional oil and changed it every 3,000 miles. Always use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends. They know more than we do about what is best. Besides, the distance you travel I would think that changing the oil every 18,000 miles is an advantage and you will not have to spend as much time changing or having the oil changed. I hope this helps.

“I have a 1965 GTO that sat dormant since the mid 80’s until this past summer.  It has a 389 tri-power engine with 10.75 to 1 compression.  What type of oil would you recommend?  The car has 58,000 original miles.  Note:  “Back in the day, I used SAE 20W-50 Valvoline racing oil.”  Do you have any information regarding the availability of high octane gas?  Is there anything like Sunoco 260 available today?  I am currently adding Octane boost to 93 Octane pump gas.  Thanks.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. The oil issue is more than what viscosity to use (SAE rating) although that is important. Older vehicles (before about 1990) used flat bottom valve lifters and these require that a certain level of zinc additive be included in the oil. However, zinc can harm catalytic converters and as a result, the levels in oil today are not high enough for these older engines, especially if you had the engine recently overhauled and the parts are being broken in. Use racing oil or diesel oil such as Shell Rottella T. This oil, the last I read, had about 1200 parts per million (PPM) of zinc compared to less than 800 PPM in newer oils. Of course even diesel engines now use a catalytic converter and therefore even diesel engine oil has less zinc than in the past.

I suggest that you use a good quality oil of the specified viscosity (usually SAE 10W-30) and then purchase a can of zinc additive. While this additive does add to the cost (about $10.00 for the additive), you will know that the engine is getting enough of the anti-wear additive needed for your engine. Newer engines use roller lifters and do not require the higher zinc levels.

Regarding the gasoline, you can use premium (91+ octane rating) as the octane rating method has changed from what you remember in the old days.

”I emailed you about what to use in an old car (1928 Pontiac). You said I could use Shell Rottella T diesel. As long as it says Rottella T, does that mean it is the right oil? Also is synthetic Shell Rottella T SAE 10W-30 okay to use? Thanks. I  sure like your column in the Dayton paper”.

Halderman:

Yes, Shell Rottella T for diesel engines would be the right oil to use. You could also use Mobil Delvac oil because currently these oils contain enough zinc to prevent damage to the flat bottom valve lifters and camshafts.  I think either SAE 10W-30 or SAE 15W-40 would work as long as you are not starting in very cold weather. I would NOT recommend the use of the synthetic version unless the engine has been overhauled and seals have been updated to the latest materials. Older seals and gaskets are not compatible with the old rubber and gasket material used before about 1980.

Instead of using diesel oil, you could also use conventional oil and add a zinc additive. Actually, this might be the best for you because you can select your favorite brand of oil and be assured that the there is enough zinc to protect the engine. Emissions standards are getting tougher almost every year and the oil companies have to formulate the oil to reduce chemicals that could affect the catalytic converter. Even diesel engines today are equipped with catalytic converters and that is why we are seeing a reduction of zinc levels in diesel oils.

I am ready to store my lawn mower and the gas-powered weed trimmer and I have heard that today’s gasoline contains alcohol and that I should not use it in my lawn equipment. Almost all of the gas pumps I see say right on the pump “contains up to 10% ethanol”. I guess I have two questions:

1. Where can I find gasoline that does not have ethanol?
2. If I can’t find alcohol-free gas, what I can do to protect my lawn equipment when they are being stored over the winter? 

Halderman:

You are correct that most gasoline today contains ethanol. While ethanol (ethyl alcohol) is used to increase the octane rating of the fuel, it does absorb moisture from the air. Here is what happens:

• Moisture in the air is absorbed by the alcohol in the fuel (this is why it is important to keep the fuel tank full when storing a mower to keep air out from the tank).
• When water is absorbed by the alcohol, it tends to separate from the gasoline. This is called “phase separation.”
• The alcohol-water mixture is heavier than the gasoline and sinks to the bottom of the tank.
• The engine draws the fuel from the bottom of the tank, which means that the engine is using this alcohol/water combination, leading to hard starting or no starting in the spring.

Most experts recommend using ethanal-free gasoline in vehicles that are being stored for any length of time to help reduce moisture from being absorbed. Visit www.pure-gas.org to find a station that sells alcohol-free gasoline. Some of the stations listed have a special pump and may not be labeled so be sure to ask at the station where the alcohol-free gas pump is located. It is usually more expensive and often 89 or higher octane compared to 87 for regular unleaded gas.

Most experts state that the shelf life of gasoline is 90 days. Shelf life means that it works like new for 90 days, but after that the light ends start to evaporate and oxidation starts to occur that affects its performance. I recommend a gas stabilizer be added to the gas container to help protect the gasoline itself and will allow gas to remain fresh for six months or longer.

Always fill the tank with fresh gas and use fresh stabilizer. Also try to use Top Tier gasoline in all vehicles, not just in mowers.  Top Tier Gasoline is gasoline that has engine cleaning chemicals to help reduce engine deposits, more than specified by the EPA. For a list of brands that are top tier visit  www.toptiergas.com.

“I have a situation where I am storing my 2012 Buick Lacrosse Touring edition. It was not driven for the last year; however; it was warmed-up weekly. My problem is that at the last warm up the car battery was too low to turn the engine over.  I am concerned that it was losing computer programming if a battery cable one or both was disconnected so that a battery changer can be used with both cables connected. My question is what are the Pros and Cons of charging a car battery in the car with the positive, negative or both cables connected? Thanks for your answer look forward to reading your reply in Wheels”.

Halderman:

First, I do not suggest that a vehicle be stored without being properly prepared.  If being stored, it should be properly prepared for storage including filling the gas tank and using a gasoline stabilizer. When the battery voltage dropped, the memory was likely lost at the same time. Not as bad a situation, but still all of the power windows and seats may have to be reset. I use a “float-type charger” to keep the battery charged without overcharging it when the vehicle is being stored. The most commonly used brand is called a “Battery Tender” but there are many others out there and costs are $50 to $100). I do not recommend any other type of charger and these can be used with the battery in the vehicle and connected.

“Jim, this may not be in your area of expertise, but I’ll bet you know someone who can help.

I enjoy your articles on “Straight Talk” and recently read the one on storage of vehicles over the winter. Being a “mechanical” guy, I agree with all the items you said, but what about the “critters” that come to classic cars in the winter. I have used moth balls and Irish Spring soap in the passenger compartment, with marginal results. The sticky “glue boards” will stop them dead in their tracks, but like D-Con, then you have a dead mouse smell in the spring. What would you suggest? PS- We don’t have a cat”.

 Halderman:

Thanks for writing. You are correct that a vehicle in storage provides an excellent nesting location for all types of animals.

I store a vehicle in a climatic-controlled space and I do not have that issue but I know of many who do. Some thoughts and ideas:

1. Keep any food such as pet or bird food away from any stored vehicle. If you don’t do this, you just made the vehicle the perfect location for the critters to spend the winter.
2. Try placing a drier sheet inside the vehicle. The smell is nice to people but not to animals.
3. I avoid using a car cover unless it is sealed completely around the vehicle including underneath. Again a car cover provides an excellent shelter for those animals searching a place to spend the winter.
4. If animals are still a problem, try sealing all openings such as ducts with plastic and duct tape to help keep animals from getting into engine parts, such as the air cleaner or the interior.

“I have a vehicle that I store every winter and while I normally add a gasoline stabilizer to the gas, are there other things that I should be doing?”

Halderman:

You are correct that adding a gasoline stabilizer is a wise move so keep doing that. Be sure that the fuel tank is filled with fresh gas and use fresh gasoline stabilizer.  If it is a “fun” car that may not be used daily, consider using gas stabilizer each time the tank is filled so that it will always be in the system. Other items that should be considered include:

1. Change the engine oil before it is stored.
2. Wherever it is stored be sure that dog or other pet food is not in in the same area. If food is available, the stored vehicle becomes a welcome condo to mice and other animals that may take up living in or around the vehicle. Some experts recommend placing moth balls around the vehicle and a clothes dryer sheet inside to help keep animals away.
3. Connect a “float-type” battery charger to the battery which keeps it about 80% charged and not overcharged.
4. Clean the vehicle to help prevent dirt from attracting moisture while in storage. A car cover is also a wise investment if exposed to sunlight or is outside and not in a sealed garage or storage area.
5. To help prevent the tires from being flat-spotted, consider over-inflating the tire about five to ten pounds per square inch (PSI) of tire pressure. For example, if the normal tire pressure is 32 PSI, inflate the tires to 40 PSI.

The above steps should be fine for a vehicle being stored over the winter. If a vehicle is going to be stored for longer periods, additional items should be done. These would include jacking the vehicle off the ground and supported by safety stand placed under the suspension as well as applying flogging oil to the inside of the engine.

Note to Reader:

It is now officially fall and time to change the engine oil and filter if following the seasons for this service. I will remind you again about December 21, the first day of winter.

“So now for the third time my car is in the shop with significant rodent damage to the wiring harnesses in the engine.  This time to the tune of thousands.  Come to find out for some time now this has become epidemic in the industry.  Why?  The stupid auto makers to save money under the guise of being environmentally friendly, have been using soy-based wiring covers instead of the petroleum-based products.  The soy-based however is a feast for rodents.  Is there anything a vehicle owner can do to prevent this type of damage?”

Halderman:

You are correct Tom that many vehicle manufacturers are now using soy-based wiring insulation. The reason is the European Union (EU) has mandated that the vehicle manufacturer, not the owner of the vehicle, is responsible for the “end-of-’life” disposal of the vehicle. Plastic wiring insulation is very difficult to separate from the copper wiring so plant-based materials are used instead. To help prevent rodent damage try the following suggestions:

• Avoid parking a vehicle in a closed space where there is also pet food. Once a rodent gets access to a food source, they go looking for other foods in the area.
• Store dog or cat food, as well as bird seed, in a different area form where the vehicle is parked.
• Try using an electronic device that emits a sound that only the rodent can hear to keep them away from the vehicle.
• Place drier sheets inside the vehicle, and several places under the hood. These have a pleasant odor to people, but rodents don’t like the smell and will not stay around.

“My 2007 RAV4 6-cylinder with 60,000 miles will spend the winter in my unheated Dayton garage. It will be serviced before it is left behind (oil change, etc.) The tires and battery were replaced last year (less than 10,000 miles).

A neighbor will drive it briefly, at least monthly. What must be done for it to survive? Should the gas tank be full? Must I get the full 60,000 service before I leave? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Many thanks.”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. A couple of thoughts include:

1. You can either have the 60,000 mile service done now or when you return as I do not think it will make much difference.
2. If the vehicle is being driven, I suggest that it be driven at least 20 miles so that the engine oil is fully warmed to boil off any moisture.
3. If you have electrical power in the garage, I suggest that you purchase a “float-type” battery charger and connect that to the battery. Doing this would mean that you neighbor would not have to drive it when you are away.
4. I suggest that you have the fuel tank full and add a gasoline stabilizer following the instructions on the container.

“I keep a 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible at my vacation place. At the beginning of the summer, the car would not start so I had it jump started by AAA. The tow truck driver suggested that I replace the battery because it was eight years old and likely at the end of its useful service. I did have the battery replaced and then the next time I visited my vacation home, the battery was dead even though it had been just a couple of weeks. Do you think the new battery is defective? Any suggestions would be appreciated”.

Halderman:

There are a couple of possible reasons for the dead battery including:

1. The new battery is defective-while this is not very common, it is possible that the new battery had been on the shelf for an extended period and could be discharged or defective due to a manufacturing issue
2. The car has a parasitic draw– This would explain why the first battery was dead and could be the reason why the replacement battery died after a short time.

I think the car should be looked at by a professional. The technician could then determine the condition of the battery as well as if there is a parasitic draw, which can cause the battery to be drained. The drain could be as simple as the trunk or glove box light being left on or an even a computer that fails “to go asleep”.

If storing a vehicle, I recommend that the battery be connected to a “float-type” battery charger which will keep the battery charged without over charging it. If the vehicle is being stored where there is no electricity available, consider using a solar charger that can be placed on the dash and plugged into the lighter plug. This works on most domestic brands but does not work on Asian or European vehicles because the lighter plug is not connected directly to the battery on these vehicles.

“I move to Arizona every winter and return to Ohio in the spring usually to find that the batteries of both of my vehicles are discharged. Can I connect a battery charger to them both or would this cause the batteries to be overcharged? Also, what else should I do to help prevent causing damage to my vehicles when I am gone. I should have written to you last fall.”

 Halderman:

Good question. The safest approach is to disconnect the battery from the vehicle and use a “float-type” battery charger. This type of charger not only charges the battery but also keeps it charged without overcharging. Do not use a conventional charger as this type will continue to apply voltage to the battery, which can overheat and damage the battery. Purchase a battery charger specifically designed to be used to keep stored batteries charged.  Some other items that can be done when storing a vehicle include:

• The tires can be inflated the maximum pressure as indicated on the sidewall to help keep the tires from flat spotting when in storage.
• Keep the vehicle in a secure dry location and do not store dog or cat food around the vehicle. The pet food can attract animals and they are more likely to find a home under the hood or even in the air ducts of the vehicle over the winter.
• It is also recommended that the engine oil be changed before storing the vehicle so that the oil additives are fresh to absorb moisture in the engine.
• If storing the vehicle for longer than six months, I also suggest that the vehicle be jacked up and placed on safety stands to keep the weight of the vehicle off the tires.  Do not forget to restore the tire inflation pressure to normal when returning the vehicle to daily service in the spring. The specified tire inflation pressure is shown on a decal or placard on the driver’s door or door jam.

Your articles in the last few weeks of storing cars during the winter, you advised using Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. My 1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo is one of those vehicles that is only run a few miles at a time just to lubricate things, less than once a month, and stays parked in my garage. During the winter I don’t even start it but keep a battery charger on it when parked in garage. It still runs fine. I have never used fuel stabilizer in it although getting ready to add fuel to it, and wondering since I don’t start or run it often, should I also consider using Marvel Mystery Oil to keep the valves free? Or is that too much additive because I better use fuel stabilizer this time?

Halderman:

I usually recommend what the vehicle manufacture recommends and most, if not all, do not approve of the use of any additive except their own fuel system cleaner (usually Techron), and then only under certain conditions. Some basics include:

1. Keep the fuel tank full of fresh gasoline– Gasoline has a shelf life of about 90 days and is blended for seasonal use. Keeping the fuel tank full will keep the air out of the fuel tank and therefore will reduce condensation that can occur if the tank is less than full with air above the fuel level.
2. Use a fuel stabilizer– Using a fuel stabilizer will help keep the fuel from combining with the oxygen in the air and will help keep it fresh and usable for up to a year. Aways follow the instructions on the container and use only the recommended amount for the size fuel tank.
3. The use of other additives is usually not recommended-Change the engine oil prior to storage and at least every year regardless of the number of miles driven. No other additive is needed or recommended.
4. Use a float–type battery charger– Do not use a trickle charger to maintain the battery as this type of charger could overcharge it.

“How do you know if your tire pressure gauge is accurate?  I have a stick tire pressure gauge (the kind shaped like a pencil where a stick pops out of the bottom to indicate the pressure) that I’ve had for decades and worked fine (or so I believed) until I got a car with the tire pressure sensors.  The problem is the car’s sensors and the stick gauge disagree by 3-4 lbs.  So I bought a dial gauge, hoping it would prove one or the other correct.  Nope, that one is off 3-4 lbs in the other direction.  Are the sensors that come with modern cars (mine is an Altima) accurate?  Are sticks better than dial gauges?”

Halderman:

Thanks for writing. I suggest that you use a digital tire pressure gauge. Stick or “pencil-type” gauges are not very accurate and while dial gauges are usually better, digital can show pressure within 0.1 PSI allowing the user to get all of the tires equally inflated. Digital tire pressure gauges are now relatively inexpensive and easier to use than other types you mentioned. The tire pressure sensors are relatively accurate as they have to adhere to Federal law and trigger the TPMS warning light when the pressure drops 8 PSI below the door placard pressure.

“I have a vehicle that is not used very often but when I do, it shakes as if the tires are square.  I know to drive the vehicle about ten miles before it rides normally.  What is the most likely cause?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money on it just for this problem.  Thanks.”

Halderman:

The most likely reason for the harsh and bumpy ride is that the tires have “taken a set” from being parked.  This is normal for many types of tires, especially high-performance tires that use an overlay ply over the steel belt.  When the vehicle is parked, the tires “flat-spot” where they contact the ground and it takes a while until the tire becomes round again. If the vehicle is stored for a long period, this flat-spotting can become permanent and ruin the tires which would then require replacement.  The least expensive thing to do is nothing.  There are several ways to help avoid this issue including:

• Overinflate the tires about 4 PSI higher than the door placard pressure to help reduce the amount of deflection of the tire.
• If stored for several weeks or more, consider using a curved platform where the tires can be kept round.
• Use a jack and safety stands to raise the vehicle off the ground when not being used.

If replacing the tires, check that the material used includes polyester or rayon and try to avoid tires that contain nylon to help reduce this flat-spotting.